I think my ECU is dying!! (1 Viewer)

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I’ve had on and off issues with the intermittent starting issue. I thought I had solved it with fusible links, new battery, EFI replaced , along with some faulty wires under the hood. That was about 8 months ago.
It’s been ticking along until about 2 months ago my fuel pump failed… no biggy I know. We got it going and about 6 weeks after fuel pump. I jump in and get that old familiar…crank but no start. CEL flashed during one of my cranks, it started, I drove it for about 10 miles. Got home turned it off, checked the CEL… nada. Sooo… I committed to looking At all the relays , connections and wires under the driver side kick panel. While I was down there the CEL flashed on for a second. I didn’t see anything obvious. I did notice the old alarm??? hanging by one wire.
I replaced the fusible link disconnected the battery and left it overnight. It started the next day. I talked to a toy man and he suggested the ECU. I did some research and read that there are symptoms of a bad ECU , like rough transmission shifts , bad gas mileage and intermittent starts.
 
I’ve had on and off issues with the intermittent starting issue. I thought I had solved it with fusible links, new battery, EFI replaced , along with some faulty wires under the hood. That was about 8 months ago.
It’s been ticking along until about 2 months ago my fuel pump failed… no biggy I know. We got it going and about 6 weeks after fuel pump. I jump in and get that old familiar…crank but no start. CEL flashed during one of my cranks, it started, I drove it for about 10 miles. Got home turned it off, checked the CEL… nada. Sooo… I committed to looking At all the relays , connections and wires under the driver side kick panel. While I was down there the CEL flashed on for a second. I didn’t see anything obvious. I did notice the old alarm??? hanging by one wire.
I replaced the fusible link disconnected the battery and left it overnight. It started the next day. I talked to a toy man and he suggested the ECU. I did some research and read that there are symptoms of a bad ECU , like rough transmission shifts , bad gas mileage and intermittent starts.
Baring alien intervention. There has got to be a solution to the seemingly never ending intermittent starting issue.
 
I’ve had on and off issues with the intermittent starting issue. I thought I had solved it with fusible links, new battery, EFI replaced , along with some faulty wires under the hood. That was about 8 months ago.
It’s been ticking along until about 2 months ago my fuel pump failed… no biggy I know. We got it going and about 6 weeks after fuel pump. I jump in and get that old familiar…crank but no start. CEL flashed during one of my cranks, it started, I drove it for about 10 miles. Got home turned it off, checked the CEL… nada. Sooo… I committed to looking At all the relays , connections and wires under the driver side kick panel. While I was down there the CEL flashed on for a second. I didn’t see anything obvious. I did notice the old alarm??? hanging by one wire.
I replaced the fusible link disconnected the battery and left it overnight. It started the next day. I talked to a toy man and he suggested the ECU. I did some research and read that there are symptoms of a bad ECU , like rough transmission shifts , bad gas mileage and intermittent starts.
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
 
I do have 2 3fe ecus currently. Sending a pm
Whatda mean?
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
 
Whatda mean?
I did adjust the transmission throttle. I can look at that ..makes sense. As for the alarm I’m not sure that it is after market?? I took some pictures to look at the printing and it doesn’t say Toyota or Denso on it??
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
Whatda mean?
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
 
A few things jump out at me.
Your transmission is 100% hydraulic with no electronic control, so the ECU has nothing to do with rough shifting. Harsh shifts are likely a misadjusted throttle cable (kickdown cable).
A poorly installed aftermarket alarm/immobilizer should be completely removed to eliminate that as the issue.
This all seems to be too intermittent to be an ECU failure IMO. More than likely there is faulty wiring somewhere in the ECU signal path.
As I'm sure you know, no CEL with the key in the ON/RUN position before you crank the starter means the ECU is not in a ready state and this engine will not run. If someone removed the 2 Phillips screws on the side of the AFM housing and tried to remove the connector, the AFM wiring is now torn internally.
There is a thin spring clip on the connector that you push up to remove the connector from the AFM without damage.
This is 1st generation EFI on a tractor motor. 1986 technology.
The alarm system starts at the radio. It works from a missing cassette . I think I’ll start there. I have never messed with the AFM. I read some threads pertaining to issues with AFM’s and I couldn’t immediately see the parallels but … I’ll keep that on my list. The alarm seems the least complicated place to start.

98DBF18F-EF06-459A-AF01-93ECDAC580E0.jpeg
 
The alarm system starts at the radio. It works from a missing cassette .
Uh, no. That writing on the cassette slot just means the stereo itself has an anti-theft system, namely a code that sometimes needs to be reset.

Dude, you *really* should hook up with the local Land Cruiser club like jonheld suggested.
 
Uh, no. That writing on the cassette slot just means the stereo itself has an anti-theft system, namely a code that sometimes needs to be reset.

Dude, you *really* should hook up with the local Land Cruiser club like jonheld suggested.
I have started looking at that. I noticed a rally..of sorts in February.
Plan on going…ps girls ❤️ LC’s too.
 
Uh, no. That writing on the cassette slot just means the stereo itself has an anti-theft system, namely a code that sometimes needs to be reset.

Dude, you *really* should hook up with the local Land Cruiser club like jonheld suggested.
Yeah but…someone has been under there ( driver kick panel) cutting wires. It’s obvious they did some minimal removal of the system.
 

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