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Ya , pretty sure it will find its way to a mechanic, but I’m not giving up yetNo apology need I laugh at stuff I do all the time. One way or another it will run again.
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Ya , pretty sure it will find its way to a mechanic, but I’m not giving up yetNo apology need I laugh at stuff I do all the time. One way or another it will run again.
1999 4.7Engines aren’t quite as mysterious as some would make it out to be. Something is stoppoing the cam from turning. What year engine are we talking about? I understand that the variable valve timing engine are interference engines. If you (carefully) move the cranshaft a bit does the cam free up?
I will try tonight1999 4.7
Thanks I will keep tryingBTW - 99 2UZ cam gear will turn 360 degrees without the TB on. It's not interference, there is nothing to stop it.
Something's wrong then. I've spun the cams and crankshaft independently on my 2002 and it all moved freely.1999 4.7
Engines aren’t quite as mysterious as some would make it out to be. Something is stoppoing the cam from turning. What year engine are we talking about? I understand that the variable valve timing engine are interference engines. If you (carefully) move the cranshaft a bit does the cam free up?
Thanks I will keep trying
Shrug. I managed without a manual but my new belt had marks on it so it was kinda paint-by-number. As far as torque numbers go, "Pretty tight" is pretty good. The 2UZ in our Sequoia has about 435,000 km on it now. I wouldn't be so brave with something of value.Agreed to an extent. As i often tell people, it's just nuts and bolts. And the 2UZ is pretty resilient and low stress so a torque value being off here and there isn't going to grenade it in a day. That being said... there's an awful lot of parts and wires and clips and bearings and seals and gaskets and mating surface prep required to put it together and keep it running for more than a month. Without the FSM, what are the chances of correctly placing the timing belt all all three pulleys? Low, I think.
Can you open up the valve cover and inspect? Since it's a non-interference engine, I'm thinking any obstruction should be in the valve cover cavity.
I will check out the valve cover tonightCan you open up the valve cover and inspect? Since it's a non-interference engine, I'm thinking any obstruction should be in the valve cover cavity.
Even if I end up having to do a engine swap I will be money ahead LC super cleanShrug. I managed without a manual but my new belt had marks on it so it was kinda paint-by-number. As far as torque numbers go, "Pretty tight" is pretty good. The 2UZ in our Sequoia has about 435,000 km on it now. I wouldn't be so brave with something of value.
OK I’ll try thatAre you sure it isn't just compression. Try taking out the spark plugs, or at least the six easiest ones.
Yes I put a straight edge on it and it looked good I’m trying to find one as we speak I will look at this again when I take it back offA warped head torqued to a flat block will bind the cam shaft. Also improper torque sequence and/or torque specs can warp the head and bind the cam.
Did you verify that the block and head were flat before putting everything back together?
Yes I put a straight edge on it and it looked good I’m trying to find one as we speak I will look at this again when I take it back off
Thanks
I didn’t check the the blockA warped head torqued to a flat block will bind the cam shaft. Also improper torque sequence and/or torque specs can warp the head and bind the cam.
Did you verify that the block and head were flat before putting everything back together?
Better not be the blockI didn’t check the the block
A warped head torqued to a flat block will bind the cam shaft. Also improper torque sequence and/or torque specs can warp the head and bind the cam.