I screwed up...need radiator help (1 Viewer)

[cary]

You are the only one who has stepped forward to say that they even know someone who's experienced radiator failure after rebuilding their late model 80 series radiator. My experience remains contradictory to your claim that rebuilt 80 series radiators with plastic tanks, by definition, fail. I am sure the truth lies somewhere in the middle.

I can better understand the point of view "why even risk it to only save $300-400 bucks". I happen to think that $300-400 is a big nickel. Maybe more so for some than others.

As seems to happen every time I get involved in a discussion with you, you have again asserted that I made statements that I have not. I never made any claims specific to the 80 series radiator, but the rebuilding of plastic tanked radiators in general. The shops I dealt with in this process knew they weren't going to sell me a new radiator, as I told them I would pay for an OEM one if I had to replace it. They still told me it wasn't worth doing.

I believe that Idahodoug covered the economics of rebuilding vs. a new OEM pretty well. It isn't a $300-400 difference, but more like $200. For $200, given the time and effort to replace the radiator, I would rather spend a bit more and never have to do the job again (given the 10+ year life of a new OEM radiator), then take a chance on it blowing a gasket or cracking a tank, which will likely not happen at a convienent time.

 

[jamisobe]

As seems to happen every time I get involved in a discussion with you, you have again asserted that I made statements that I have not. I never made any claims specific to the 80 series radiator, but the rebuilding of plastic tanked radiators in general. The shops I dealt with in this process knew they weren't going to sell me a new radiator, as I told them I would pay for an OEM one if I had to replace it. They still told me it wasn't worth doing.

I believe that Idahodoug covered the economics of rebuilding vs. a new OEM pretty well. It isn't a $300-400 difference, but more like $200. For $200, given the time and effort to replace the radiator, I would rather spend a bit more and never have to do the job again (given the 10+ year life of a new OEM radiator), then take a chance on it blowing a gasket or cracking a tank, which will likely not happen at a convienent time.

I am just stating the facts. You said that you know of no plastic tanked radiators to survive a rebuild for 12 months (that would include the so equipped 80 series wouldn't it?). If you are talking about a $420 radiator and you spend $100 to rebuild you are still saving $320. That's still a big nickel.

I spent $55 to have my 80 series plastic tanked radiator rebuilt and I am at 7 months with no problems. The guy at the shop said it looked great and it should be good for another 150k. We'll see.

Romer- I never said my research turned up anybody who had a rebuild go for 12 months. I said I never turned up anyone who had a rebuild fail.

As far as a nipple repair. Who knows? I've never even seen it done before, but I wouldn't be surprised to see it work. I guess I could see myself trying it because sometimes I'm frugal (cheap when I can get away with it ).

 

[cruiserdan]

We don't bother to send plastic tank radiators out for repair.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I realize I may have mentioned this in other threads, so pardon the repeat. The 80s plastic tanks are a sensible and durable product. Mine's got 160,000 miles and 14 years on it and it's sound and has no evidence of stress. My bro in law's original radiator began seeping around the top tank O ring at 280,000 miles or so and I replaced it for him. A couple years ago I was at the biggest rad shop in town with an unrelated question and they happened to have a 94 80 coming in the next day for rad replacement. I came in the next day and took it from them for free - was seeping around the O ring, but otherwise in excellent shape with 102,000 miles on it.

Plastic top and bottom tanks are lighter, and the tanks are cheaper to produce than a metal one. This allows a mfr like Toyota to put more money into the other functional aspects of the radiator such as a quality core and still be into the part for less money. I spent quite a bit of time with Toyota, and feel confident this would be their development path.

The downside of this is that a metal tank can be repaired with ease, and this is not the case with those made of plastic. I'd be worried that a mechanical fastener would create localized stress as the tank wasn't designed for it. As for glues or epoxies I'd be concerned about compatibility with the plastic compound of the tank in terms of chemical degradation or other reaction. Can it be done? Possibly.

Then consideration of the downside would be key. If the repair failed, the vehicle would immediately be immobilized and may be damaged as well. It may need a tow, or if in a remote location other recovery. Contrast this with attempting to repair something noncritical like the notorious plastic intake hose. If that repair failed it could be repaired with duct tape and driven as normal for thousands of miles.

So, I'd suggest the repair not be effected except as a temporary one or for overriding financial reasons.

DougM

 

[wakesetter]

OK...I easily admint it...I am cheap. And I am broke right now. So I called my buddy that I call McGyver. He can fix damn near anything and is really good with cars (certified mechanic, but doesn't work in the field).

He actually liked my idea of using a brass nipple. We got a 1/4"npt X 5/16" barbed fitting. We then drilled out the hole left from the broken nipple a bit and then threaded the hole with a 1/4" threading bit(?). We put a little high temp sealant on the nipple, cut about 1/2" off of the tube and slipped it over the nipple and clamped it on.

Just finished it last night. Charged up the battery as the cruiser has been down for a week or two and I left the headlights on. Started it up, checked for leaks. No problem. Drove around a couple of blocks, checked for leaks, no problem, let it run for 20 minutes to get all the way hot and checked again, no problems.

I will continue to check frequently for leaks at the nipple for a few days, driving a little farther and harder each day. I do plan to change the radiator out eventully, but need some money first. For now it seems like it was a perfectly good fix that should last a while.

Any ideas why this won't last a while?

I will take pics if anyone is interested.

 

[jamisobe]

OK...I easily admint it...I am cheap. And I am broke right now. So I called my buddy that I call McGyver. He can fix damn near anything and is really good with cars (certified mechanic, but doesn't work in the field).

He actually liked my idea of using a brass nipple. We got a 1/4"npt X 5/16" barbed fitting. We then drilled out the hole left from the broken nipple a bit and then threaded the hole with a 1/4" threading bit(?). We put a little high temp sealant on the nipple, cut about 1/2" off of the tube and slipped it over the nipple and clamped it on.

Just finished it last night. Charged up the battery as the cruiser has been down for a week or two and I left the headlights on. Started it up, checked for leaks. No problem. Drove around a couple of blocks, checked for leaks, no problem, let it run for 20 minutes to get all the way hot and checked again, no problems.

I will continue to check frequently for leaks at the nipple for a few days, driving a little farther and harder each day. I do plan to change the radiator out eventully, but need some money first. For now it seems like it was a perfectly good fix that should last a while.

Any ideas why this won't last a while?

I will take pics if anyone is interested.

Pics please.

Sounds like it should work, but I am also cheap when I can get away with it (frugal). Thats $300-400 you can now use for a mod or spend somewhere else... unless it comes back to bite you. But hey, if there is nothing ventured nothing will be gained.

 

[jamisobe]

I am amazed Jamisobe could find someone who'd pull the rad, remove upper and lower tanks, rod it, reassemble the rad, and install it for $30.

DougM

Doug, you were right. I actually paid $55. There was another radiator shop right next to it . Maybe they are having a price war .

I edited my previous posts to reflect this. It was a while ago and I went back to check the cost because I was doubting myself.

 

[Beowulf]

Threads linked for future searches.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=155122

-B-