- Thread starter
- #101
She has been on for like 20 mins now and everything seems ok, never really saw temp go super high at all. Finding out tho my heater isn't all that good lol
I need serious help...
- Thread starter Fcked94fj80
- Start date
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Get the correct coolant in it straight away. An overnight freeze without sufficient anti freeze in the coolant can cause carnage.
When i say correct coolant, you should match what's in there. If it's Toyota red, use toyota red. If it's green, use green.
If you don't know, thoroughly flush and start fresh.
When i say correct coolant, you should match what's in there. If it's Toyota red, use toyota red. If it's green, use green.
If you don't know, thoroughly flush and start fresh.
- Thread starter
- #103
Yep yota red, I've flushed it a couple.times since I've bought it
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
FWIW, that hose was originally installed when the engine was out of the truck. It's a 30 second job when you can reach it. There is a trick to installing it with everything in place, but you have to use the OEM hose and clamps, since they snap in place. Garden hose worm drive clamps are useless in the first place and to hard to work with in the second, in confined spaces, like this.
You have to remove the upper steel tubing, and install the hose on that first, with the clamp loosely installed on the head side of the hose. You then slide the hose over the nipple on the head (Vaseline on the nipple is a must because the hose is a very tight fit) and then slide the clamp in place over the hose/nipple. You can then remove the clamp retainer and the hose clamp will snap in place. Then you have only to bolt the tube in place at the top and you're done.
The procedure is the same with SAE hose and other clamps, it's just not as easy. The hose will be loose because it's the wrong size and the garden hose clamp will run around the hose like it's playing hide and seek. Just one of the many reasons to use genuine Toyota parts.
You have to remove the upper steel tubing, and install the hose on that first, with the clamp loosely installed on the head side of the hose. You then slide the hose over the nipple on the head (Vaseline on the nipple is a must because the hose is a very tight fit) and then slide the clamp in place over the hose/nipple. You can then remove the clamp retainer and the hose clamp will snap in place. Then you have only to bolt the tube in place at the top and you're done.
The procedure is the same with SAE hose and other clamps, it's just not as easy. The hose will be loose because it's the wrong size and the garden hose clamp will run around the hose like it's playing hide and seek. Just one of the many reasons to use genuine Toyota parts.
- Thread starter
- #105
Old hose and old bootleg fusible link. If anyone has a spare lid for the black clamshell. I'll pay for the shipping
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It's not a separate part; the wires come with the protector.
- Thread starter
- #107
R we talking about same thing? I'm talking about the black thing the 2 wires from fusible link go into
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
No, I was referring to the fusible link. My mistake. Do you mean this?
There are two in the rear face of the battery box; they are $10 a piece from the dealer, or Ourisman Toyota.
There are two in the rear face of the battery box; they are $10 a piece from the dealer, or Ourisman Toyota.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I figured he was referring to the plastic clam shell that covers the bolted connection for the fusible link
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Could be. IDK
SmokingRocks
hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
I've bought the links before and they didn't come with the shell... 
- Thread starter
- #112
Ya that guy
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Pretty sure they are available, not sure where to find the part number
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Actually
82670-60040 fusible link Junction block
82670-60040 fusible link Junction block
- Thread starter
- #115
Alright so update. After getting new tail light harness. And a fusible link put in, the truck sometimes doesn't want to start. It can take 4-5 tries to get it to fire. Voltage is fine when nothing is one. I went through and replaced all major grounds. When I had headlights on and or heater, and at a stop the voltage drops to about the halfway point. But moment I am moving it goes back up. It only started when I replaced the fusible link so it's odd to me. Would it be alternator based on voltage gauge, starter, ignition? I spent 9 hrs today on it trying to track it down. Thought it was fixed til I just left a buddies house and still did it. Put a brand new battery in it as well as terminals to rule all that out. Also took out all the janky accessories po put in to rule those out as well. I was gonna look at nss. But one I can't find it and 2 based on how voltage is from stopped to moving makes me think alternator?
- Thread starter
- #116
Also I financially can't afford a wiring harness right now so if someone had one and would be willing to accept payments I'd be in ur debt forever.
What you described does point to the alternator. Are you close enough to a FLAPS to get it tested?
Friendly Local Auto Parts Store
- Thread starter
- #118
Alright so update again. Movement in right direction. I took her out last night and played alittle and she did great. It was either the starter or the little wire connector. I replaced both and then replaced the alternator connector and she is good in that regard. Next on the agenda can I get a pic from someone on where the junction box power comes from? Looking at fsm, to me it looks like battery or fusible link. Mine is a white wire coming from alternator which from what I've been told is wrong. So I'd like to fix it even if it's not an issue, my ocd wants it right lol. Another issue I keep running into after fixing egr code (maybe) I am now throwing running lean code 25. Both o2 sensors r new and I'm not super familiar w running lean. It's come on and off and I've reset it. This time it took 100 miles before it kicked on.
If you have any exhaust leaks, it can be seen as running lean by the ECU and will adjust accordingly.
- Thread starter
- #120
Ahhh ok. I'll have to check since it's cold enough I'll see something coming out if I have a leak. A new issue arrived this am while warming it up for work so gotta **** w it after work and look in fsm. The dash lights went out again. Just the illumination for gauges. Dome light still worked and warning lights as well but I couldn't shift until the lights came back on. Even tried w turning my headlights off, which also were still on. Wtf ties the gauge lights to the shifter???? As I said I'll look at fsm once home but I've been puzzled all day at work cuz I was almost late waiting for it to fix itself.
