I have a power steering volcano on my 1996 LX450.

Joined
Nov 7, 2022
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Wyoming
The powersteering pump is making noise even with the steering wheel stationary. When I removed the cap while motor was running, I had some fluid jump out. Didn't look good. Turned off motor, added some dexron ATF to top it off, and it's much quieter. i think I need to just drain all the fluid, and also replace the lines. From the one that I can see, it looks cracked/aged. Can I just go to Autozone to source the lines? Any thoughts and/or suggestions are welcome.

lx450-PS-reservoir.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2022
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Wyoming
So after some reading, I think I want to replace the return line first, it has obvious cracks, and then just replace the fluid. I think the return line is one on the left in the picture in the original post, with cracks, and it should be locally obtainable I would imagine. In the pic below, I'm assuming that's the return line (red arrow).

1668819052600.png
 
Joined
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Don't open your pump while it is running.

Now the fluid is full of bubbles and it was probably only low or dirty to begin with.

If it were mine I would let it sit for 24hrs than use a turkey baster or mouth pipette with a hose and remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible.

Than top it off and run it for awhile.

I would do this 3 or 4 times to make sure all the bubbles get out and to get some fresh fluid in the system without going through all the work of a proper drain and fill.
 
Joined
Nov 7, 2022
Messages
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Location
Wyoming
Don't open your pump while it is running.

Now the fluid is full of bubbles and it was probably only low or dirty to begin with.

If it were mine I would let it sit for 24hrs than use a turkey baster or mouth pipette with a hose and remove as much fluid from the reservoir as possible.

Than top it off and run it for awhile.

I would do this 3 or 4 times to make sure all the bubbles get out and to get some fresh fluid in the system without going through all the work of a proper drain and fill.

What about the cracks in this line?

1668820139638.png
 

Somebodyelse5

Enginerdin'
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Tukee Town, AZ
did you put a little mini hot dog in there?


Also, go ahead and replace the lines... they are exhibiting ozone cracking. But that has absolutely nothing to do with your noise (unless the other end of that hose is disconnected and draining all that sweet sweet teriyaki trans sauce)
 
Joined
Jan 19, 2005
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What about the cracks in this line?

View attachment 3172118
I am a firm believer in don't fix it if it ain't broke. If the line doesn't leak I would wait for it to fail before I replaced it.

For all you know the rig might get totalled by a drunk in 2 weeks.

That being said, if you use the vehicle for long road trips or forays into remote areas with no services or cell signal instead of daily driving around town, than I would replace that hose along with a lot of other stuff for peace of mind and to ensure that I always get home.
 
Joined
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Juneau, Alaska
Standard disclaimer that I'm no pro, but it's clear your fluid is bad IMO, even just based on color. The lines are old too. I did this recently, and don't see how it hurts to do a drain, replace lines, refill and then flush with engine off. I used the clear skinny hose from a hand-pump to suck out as much fluid from the res as possible, and then through the top of each upper line, to avoid spillage and get most of the old fluid out from the start. The two upper lines are easy, although the lower connection on skinny hose (the one you arrowed) can be a little pesky. OEM is great, but there are some good aftermarket options for hose. For the skinny hose I ordered PS line from gates as I couldn't get it locally, and for the larger hose (#8 in diagram) they had something at napa that was a bit more beefy than gates, can't remember brand - felt and looked almost identical to the original hose. You need 12" for the wider one, and it's good to get 3ft for the other. I think there might be one more section of skinny hose in there somewhere? Can't remember.

Given the visual on your upper hoses, you'll probably want to inspect the high pressure lines as well. Just shooting ahead, but if you do it in the future, the rein part from rockauto is known to be nearly identical to OEM, and the OEM part is $$. New crush washers too.

My pump would whine briefly at cold startup last winter if it was in the teens or less, not low on fluid, but after doing a flush with new juice, all good. My hoses were visually fine, but when I replaced them, the old ones cracked very easily when flexed a little. Doesn't mean they would've failed, but I don't regret it. I'd rather replace at my leisure than have something fail when I'm on the go. That said, I also like the "if it ain't broke" approach, but I was already tinkering with the system anyway.
 
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Joined
Nov 7, 2022
Messages
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Location
Wyoming
I appreciate everyone's feedback. I've put the issue on hold, as I have another vehicle on jackstands that is first in line. I let the truck sit for a day, to let the air settle out a bit, then topped up with fresh ATF. It's back to it's normal quiet self.

But I'm going to drain, replace the cracked return line, and fill, as soon as I got the other vehicle finished and driving. Hopefully in the next week or so. I'll post an update when I jump back on the LX450. Thanks again.
 

FMC80

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I agree a power steering flush is needed; someone poured mustard in your reservoir. I did mine and followed this thread:

 
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Bay Area, Ca.
I replaced all the low pressure lines when I had my steering gear out, they were cracked like yours. I went with what Napa had to offer.

20221129_201424.jpg


You get something like 3 feet of the 3/8" and 2 feet of the 5/8". More than enough to do the job, which was super easy BTW. Well, easy when you have the steering gear and the battery removed. ;)
 
Joined
Jun 8, 2015
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NJ
Your steering fluid reservoir may need to be replaced. Mine started leaking after upgrading to the 105 box and refreshing hoses. It's an easy swap but your system looks to need a flush at the least. Good luck. Hope you get it sorted soon.
 

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