Well after doing the entire NAV delete on my LX470, still no sound. I have tried all of the various harnesses. The amp appears to spin up and turn off. I guess I'm going to put it all back. I'm super disappointed.
I Hate Mark Levinson (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheBooth1984
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dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Finding a solution has to be easier than pulling it all out. where can you confirm you have power? replacing headunit and amp, or reusing amp?
- Thread starter
- #4
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Beatsonic, plug and play harness. No guessing. But you pay for that. Beat-Sonic SLX-82AAD - https://www.beatsonicusa.com/beat-sonic-sla-82aad.html
dubdub20003
SILVER Star
Okay, so super frustrating, I hate when things should work, but don't!
I think it is all starting at the basics and retracing steps. I assume the head unit appears to have power and working correctly... minus no sound? Have you tried different source material... radio, phone, satellite? Shouldn't make a difference but it can eliminate other possibilities.
Does the install use the speaker outputs from the head unit or the RCAs? I don't have it in my brain, but you should be able to google how to confirm signal is being transmitted with a multimeter. Do you have a multimeter?
Does the amp appear to have power, light up, etc.? I assume the amp correctly powered sound before you started the head unit build? Have you confirmed that there is a signal coming through the amp turn-on wire from the harness to the amp? A signal that appears when the head unit is on and disappears when it is off?
Frustrating. Good luck. All I can suggest without a wiring diagram is to confirm the purpose and signal of every wire is doing its job... but like an hour doing that has to be easier than going back to scratch!
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Can update your prior thread too.
forum.ih8mud.com
Mark Levinson Amp Won't Play Ball
So I can coming hat in hand hoping someone can help. I did a Nav delete on my 2002 LX470 (See pics in main thread). Everything works fantastic in new head unit. All AC, etc. I am keeping the ML amp and speakers. So far I have tried the Axxess AXDI-TY1, TYTO-01, and Metra 70-8113 harnesses...
forum.ih8mud.com
Check with the local TLCA club. I think someone has done this swap.
AL- DixieLand Cruisers
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Have you used one? $260 is cheap if it is a true plug and play. I wash getting ready to spend a WHOLE lot more time and money replacing my entire non-nav Levinson system.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
I have. It is indeed plug-and-play. Depending on what the radio unit is that you are installing you will also need either a PAC audio TR-1 or TR-7 in order to bypass Fed restrictions on navigation/Carplay use while in motion.
Ordered. You are a life saver, I can’t drive without my backup cams
. Now I get to buy the Kenwood big boy and setup corner cams 
YezusLX
SILVER Star
I use an Alpine INEW650 and front and rear cams. I like to have them on while I am driving so I need the unit to be bypassed. This way I can see the front and rear approach angles and it's especially handy in parking decks where you cannot see the other idiots speeding through. Alpine and Kenwood both use motion to track movement so as to avoid collisions.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
Check with Crutchfield to see if Kenwood requires their video splitter for the corner cam to run alongside front and rear cameras. I do know Alpine requires it. I believe back in the day Kenwood required that as well with multiple cameras. So maybe that is still the same requirement.Ordered. You are a life saver, I can’t drive without my backup cams
- Thread starter
- #14
Yes that is the last one it tried. Same issue. Radio fires up just fine, antenna works, amp starts and stops.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
If the amp is turning on and off it is an amp problem. Not a harness issue. They are getting the correct voltage. The amp may just be going bad. Many of those systems had/were refurbished at dealers in their lifespan for these issues. May need to just do an amp bypass at that point. YotaMD has a great video on how to accomplish this without losing your mind or pulling out your hairs. I bypassed mine because I wanted to use a different amp anyway. I use the little tiny amps from ALpine and JL audio and they can be stashed in the dash or under the seat without giving up much space. They offer a lot more power and clarity as well. There has been an immense amount of changes since the invention of the iPhone in 2007 with digital music that these old systems are not really equipped to handle. Most of the time the sound is lower volume or muffled when piped through OEM systems.
YezusLX
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #17
Any way to do this and maintain the stock speakers?
YezusLX
SILVER Star
No. The stock speakers use a different resistance level than aftermarket speakers. I believe the OEM speaker pods run a 2 or 3ohm resistance and aftermarket are typically 4 ohms. Although, I do know of a JBL set of aftermarkets that are 2ohm that we used to replace the OEM 1st gen sequoia woofers with in the front doors so you might be able to make that work as well. Again, it all depends on resistence. If it is different you run the risk of overheating the factory amplifier which may also be causing the random cut-off now that I am thinking about that. If you have a voltage meter check resistance. That might be the issue. Hot damn! my brain works sometimes. How do ya like that?
- Thread starter
- #19
No all speakers are stock. I was under the impression that if o swapped out the ML amp, I would have to replace the stock speakers as well?
YezusLX
SILVER Star
You would because of the resistance of OEM speakers. They operate in tandem with the amp.
Aftermarket speakers (most commonly 4ohm) some like JBL offer a 2-ohm option.
OEM speakers (2-3ohm) depends on 3 way or 2way (tweeter, mid, woofer) or (tweeter and woofer)
ML amp output (1.5-3 ohm)
aftermarket amp output (2 or 4 Ohm only)
Hope that is a little clearer.
more resistance = more heat more heat amp shuts down to protect itself
Aftermarket speakers (most commonly 4ohm) some like JBL offer a 2-ohm option.
OEM speakers (2-3ohm) depends on 3 way or 2way (tweeter, mid, woofer) or (tweeter and woofer)
ML amp output (1.5-3 ohm)
aftermarket amp output (2 or 4 Ohm only)
Hope that is a little clearer.
more resistance = more heat more heat amp shuts down to protect itself
