I bought a 2006 lx470 with 257k miles, need advice on suspension (2 Viewers)

[computerex]

Hey all. I am very noobish when it comes to cars, so please bear with me. I bought this vehicle last year. I have put about 7k miles on it. I had everything dealer recommended done in terms of the timing belt + t-hoses + rotors. I don't do any off-roading, don't plan to, I just want a reliable vehicle.

Here's a video of the undercarriage:

The dealer is really concerned about the rust. What is yall's opinion? I wanted to get the shocks replaced, as you can see in the video there appears to be a lot of corrosion. Dealer said they won't do it, because of the rust, but they'll sell me the parts for $890.

I was thinking of ordering this and getting this installed:
- Nitro Gas 2" Suspension Lift Kit Suited for Toyota 100 Series Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470 - Stage 1 - https://ironman4x4america.com/nitro-gas-2-suspension-lift-kit-suited-for-toyota-100-series-land-cruiser-lexus-lx470-stage-1/
- car has been making a weird vibration when I let off the throttle at low speeds for the past 6 months. Dealer couldn't nail the problem down. Lurking at here seems to suggest it's a front ball bearings issue, so I plan on getting these re-packed.
- I plan on changing the cv axles.

Should I get the rack and pinion replaced? Dealer mentioned something about it leaking, you can see in the video. Thank you for the help in advance

 

[computerex]

In addition to the above what else do I need to be on the look out for, for a vehicle of this age and miles?

 

[MongooseGA]

For the deceleration vibration, look in to your u joints. Grease them if you haven't, and if you have/ do and the vibe persists, consider having the joints replaced and drive shafts balanced.


Don't get the Nitro kit. It'll ride like s***. Get OEM Land Cruiser shocks and torsion bars. Cheap and comfortable.

For anything else, check out the FAQ at the top of the forum page. It'll have way more info than any of us will type out here.

 

[jsloden]

Rust is honestly not that bad. Looks like primarily suspension parts that you plan on replacing anyway.

 

[suprarx7nut]

A lift kit on a 100 that offroad's extensively is marginally useful. A lift on a car that never plans to go off-road is a terrible idea, IMO.

Convert to stock LC suspension if you want to ditch the current AHC. It's cheap, comfortable and readily available.

Every time this sort of question comes up I feel compelled to remind people that these things roll over - rather easily. Adding a lift makes that worse in every way. It's a safe vehicle, provided you can keep it up upright. Don't make that any harder than it has to be.

 

[BullElk]

I agree rust doesn’t look bad at all. If you want to trade out suspension due to personal preference that’s one thing but if it’s working properly there is no need to change it out prematurely. Same with the steering rack. If it’s steering properly but may be seeping a bit I would add some AT-205 reseal and move on steering happily ever after UNTIL you need to replace it.

If the crazy costs to do all you mention is worth peace of mind and entertainment that is also a personal preference value.

 

[computerex]

For the deceleration vibration, look in to your u joints. Grease them if you haven't, and if you have/ do and the vibe persists, consider having the joints replaced and drive shafts balanced.


Don't get the Nitro kit. It'll ride like s***. Get OEM Land Cruiser shocks and torsion bars. Cheap and comfortable.

For anything else, check out the FAQ at the top of the forum page. It'll have way more info than any of us will type out here.

I don't think anything has been done to u joints in the last 257k miles. Should I do the greasing of u joints in addition to front wheel bearing repacking? I am getting all the work done in a shop so would like to just get everything done in 1 visit if possible.

Rust is honestly not that bad. Looks like primarily suspension parts that you plan on replacing anyway.

Good to know!

A lift kit on a 100 that offroad's extensively is marginally useful. A lift on a car that never plans to go off-road is a terrible idea, IMO.

Convert to stock LC suspension if you want to ditch the current AHC. It's cheap, comfortable and readily available.

Every time this sort of question comes up I feel compelled to remind people that these things roll over - rather easily. Adding a lift makes that worse in every way. It's a safe vehicle, provided you can keep it up upright. Don't make that any harder than it has to be.

I am not an expert so I figured I'd order a kit because it'd have everything I'd need. Would something like this:
shorturl.at/byBG3

Combined with these work? 303001- Old Man Emu Front Torsion Bars (100 Series Land Cruiser) - https://www.toyteclifts.com/303001-front-ome-torsion-bars.html

I read on here that I'd need to change the torsion bars as well if I was changing the AHC shocks because the LX torsion bars are thin and not strong enough. Is that true?

I agree rust doesn’t look bad at all. If you want to trade out suspension due to personal preference that’s one thing but if it’s working properly there is no need to change it out prematurely. Same with the steering rack. If it’s steering properly but may be seeping a bit I would add some AT-205 reseal and move on steering happily ever after UNTIL you need to replace it.

If the crazy costs to do all you mention is worth peace of mind and entertainment that is also a personal preference value.

The ride quality is very harsh, bumpy, and the video the tech gave me of the undercarriage that I posted above makes the AHC shocks look like they are falling apart? It's also a 257k mile vehicle. I just don't want to wait till it fails, and want to setup the ride to be as reliable of a road hauler as it can be.

Thank you everyone for the responses, really appreciate it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I am not an expert so I figured I'd order a kit because it'd have everything I'd need. Would something like this:
shorturl.at/byBG3

Combined with these work? 303001- Old Man Emu Front Torsion Bars (100 Series Land Cruiser) - https://www.toyteclifts.com/303001-front-ome-torsion-bars.html

I read on here that I'd need to change the torsion bars as well if I was changing the AHC shocks because the LX torsion bars are thin and not strong enough. Is that true?


The ride quality is very harsh, bumpy, and the video the tech gave me of the undercarriage that I posted above makes the AHC shocks look like they are falling apart? It's also a 257k mile vehicle. I just don't want to wait till it fails, and want to setup the ride to be as reliable of a road hauler as it can be.

Thank you everyone for the responses, really appreciate it.

No, those torsion bars would be overkill. You'll want takeoffs from a factory Land cruiser that was lifted by somebody doing off-roading. They're often available for next to nothing if you can find somebody with a pair.

The component you see rusting away in your pictures is just a shroud. It's not a functional component so much as a piece meant to keep dust and debris away from the shock. I'm sure the system feels harsh because the pressure's are out of spec and it needs a set of globes. If the vehicle's rusty and you want to spend as little as possible on it, performing that upkeep may not be realistic. That's your call. If you were to correct pressures and get a new set of globes, your existing suspension might last another 5 years and cost less than any conversion will if you're paying a shop for labor.

 

[computerex]

No, those torsion bars would be overkill. You'll want takeoffs from a factory Land cruiser that was lifted by somebody doing off-roading. They're often available for next to nothing if you can find somebody with a pair.

The component you see rusting away in your pictures is just a shroud. It's not a functional component so much as a piece meant to keep dust and debris away from the shock. I'm sure the system feels harsh because the pressure's are out of spec and it needs a set of globes. If the vehicle's rusty and you want to spend as little as possible on it, performing that upkeep may not be realistic. That's your call. If you were to correct pressures and get a new set of globes, your existing suspension might last another 5 years and cost less than any conversion will if you're paying a shop for labor.

I'll try and find a pair from factory land cruiser but might resort to the emu ones if I can't find any.

I am not handy with a wrench, so I need all my work done in a shop. I am in North Florida and I just can't find any Toyota specialty shops reasonably near me that'd I guess have the expertise to work with the AHC? Closest ones are in Tampa+Miami. And the Lexus dealership near me doesn't want to touch it because of the "rust".

So I figured I'd just delete the AHC because then more shops will be able to service the vehicle.

Is there anything against replacing the plastic T-hoses with brass ones?

 

[computerex]

I posted this video on /r/landcruisers and people there said rust isn’t too bad as well. Dealership had me freaked out, they had me wondering if this was even a viable long term platform for me to tinker with. Their refusal to even touch the AHC system is really strange.

I don’t have time and energy to do the AHC upkeep myself. Can I go to any old shop and give them the shocks+torsion bars?

Would I need to replace the springs and would I need a spacer?

 

[computerex]

This dealership charged me $158 to change a burnt out headlight bulb.

 

[suprarx7nut]

The dealer makes money selling you a new car (or best yet financing you a used car). They don't want service on old cars that might be a time-sink for them. They want simple jobs that they can execute in "under book" time and make some money.

If you can't find an AHC mechanic, then a swap to stock LC stuff would be good. OME torsion bars are a poor choice for a stock car with no lift. They're meant for heavy duty 100s with full armor.

 

[computerex]

The dealer makes money selling you a new car (or best yet financing you a used car). They don't want service on old cars that might be a time-sink for them. They want simple jobs that they can execute in "under book" time and make some money.

If you can't find an AHC mechanic, then a swap to stock LC stuff would be good. OME torsion bars are a poor choice for a stock car with no lift. They're meant for heavy duty 100s with full armor.

Thank you for your response. Do you have a recommendation for an aftermarket torsion bar set? The oem new set costs about $800 ish, and I can’t find decent quality ones on eBay. So I figured I’d go aftermarket.

I already ordered the stock LC shocks from eBay, and I have a shop here that’s quoted me $1k for labor.

 

[willyroo]

This dealership charged me $158 to change a burnt out headlight bulb.

Fun fact: the owner's manual for a 2007 LC100 has the instructions on changing all the bulbs.

The owner's manual for a 2007 LX470, on the page about headlight bulbs, states "consult your dealer".

And having had a non AHC LC, then with 2" lift, and now an LX with AHC, I am staying AHC and no way going back. The resources here to maintain AHC have given me the confidence to do so.

 

[AlpineAccess]

It's a good car to start learning this stuff on, and a bad car for your wallet if you don't

 

[jLB]

OME torsion bars are a poor choice for a stock car with no lift. They're meant for heavy duty 100s with full armor.

Well, yes and no… to my knowledge, OME offers the thinnest aftermarket torsion bars. OME is less than ideal for a “stock” LC/LX, but the lesser of evils compared to other aftermarket options, but I agree that OE (non-AHC) would be preferable.

 

[jLB]

Do you have a recommendation for an aftermarket torsion bar set? The oem new set costs about $800 ish, and I can’t find decent quality ones on eBay. So I figured I’d go aftermarket.

Used OE bars are the best choice, if you can find them.
Sway-A-Way offers custom ~29mm bars for ~$500.
Off the shelf aftermarket bars, OME are the best choice.