I am yet again bringing you a Head-gasket rebuild thread (1 Viewer)

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Little birthday surprise from Toyota! And I’m not sure if all the post likes were birthday related but thanks regardless guys! You know who you are!! Cheers 🍻


Gotta run some errands today while it’s still bikeable into town, but hopefully afterwards I can get some wrenching in on the truck, got my vacuum hosing so will redo that as well as pick some stuff up for my wiring harness loom repairs!
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Didn’t get as much time as I hoped to work on the car today but did get a little done! Tomorrow will be a somewhat full day! Should be warm

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Toyota wanted almost 40$ for this elbow vacuum hose... I think some generic 1/4 hose will be fine for 2$
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A few more...
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Some parts showed up at the local dealership!!
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That was quick... mind you shipping and import was hefty haha

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Waiting to hear back from machine shop about intake valves, I asked if they need a copy of the FSM for any of the specs.. etc and they told they have it all there for this engine so that’s somewhat reassuring
 
Machine shop just got back to me, all valves were ok and they have cleaned them up and refaced them. Now I’m conflicted on the final steps... still waiting on the head but can’t decide if I do all the work of lapping the new valves into it and just generally following the FSM and rebuilding it myself, I am a little weary of doing this as it would be my first time and I don’t want to mess anything up, or somehow ruin my new head. I do have the lapping tools and compound and valve clearance measuring.. there’s a few things I would still need though.

Machine shop said if I want them to do it, too send them everything, old head camshafts, etc and they would charge a few hundred most likely to button it all up...

Any opinions??
 
Machine shop just got back to me, all valves were ok and they have cleaned them up and refaced them. Now I’m conflicted on the final steps... still waiting on the head but can’t decide if I do all the work of lapping the new valves into it and just generally following the FSM and rebuilding it myself, I am a little weary of doing this as it would be my first time and I don’t want to mess anything up, or somehow ruin my new head. I do have the lapping tools and compound and valve clearance measuring.. there’s a few things I would still need though.

Machine shop said if I want them to do it, too send them everything, old head camshafts, etc and they would charge a few hundred most likely to button it all up...

Any opinions??
I would pay them to do it, especially if they warranty their work. I figure if you do 80% of the work on your own rig, your doing great. Just IMHO though
 
I would pay them to do it, especially if they warranty their work. I figure if you do 80% of the work on your own rig, your doing great. Just IMHO though

Appreciate that, I'm honestly still on the fence, I want to do it but just dont want to screw something up...
 
Swapping some parts over, just slowly ticking things off the list, it’s dwindling down now though, need that head to get here! Comon shipping courier!!

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Anyone know if this is something that can be had at a hardware store? Or is it another Toyota order for me? The brass is cracked, it’s passenger side firewall location

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Don't have the number for the brass T, wait for someone to post it up. There are generic plastic T's you can find at most parts stores however.
How did it get cracked?
 
Yes figure I could just put a generic plastic T from my auto parts store to replace it, but just wondering why Toyota opted for a brass, wondering about heat in that location.

I do have the part number for the T though and it looks redesigned and it’s cheap, I’ll see if my Toyota dealer can get one in a timely manner, it’s 87248-60460 if anyone was wondering

Finally, may just try soldering my old one, I have a plumbing friend who can give it a try, not sure how it cracked and I was surprised it did..

Don't have the number for the brass T, wait for someone to post it up. There are generic plastic T's you can find at most parts stores however.
How did it get cracked?
 
Brass was discontinued years ago and replaced by plastic. 87248-60460 is the correct current replacement, like it or not.
 
Brass was discontinued years ago and replaced by plastic. 87248-60460 is the correct current replacement, like it or not.
Fair enough, good to know the new one is plastic though, I couldn’t tell from the images online. But I’m fine with plastic, was worried about heat in the location but if the new replacement from Toyota is plastic then all is well!... I’m getting my part number hyphenations in order :cool:
 
Back flushed both heater cores today, water was somewhat dirty but I ran it until it was nice and clear, then blew them out with an air compressor as to not have standing water in there that could freeze ...
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Then was the turn of the valve cover, used hot water and put it into the baffles from the top, then I would shake it around and then attach the hose and shoot water from the top out the bottom.
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Lastly began to fix the harness sheathing. Started with some reflective insulated tape around where the egr is and then I wrapped that in silicon tape.
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Pre-heating the wiring and tape:
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Some of the sheathing for the extended wires running to the throttle body is looking quite crispy, wondering if anyone who’s running a supercharger sheaths this section in anything else?? Rather than generic plastic wire sheathing...
 
Alrighty this has me a little confused... it seems as if the timing is retard / in the negatives...? My front piston is at TDC but the crankshaft is not on the 0 mark. Almost looks -3? Anyone have any ideas, the dark chain link of the top Aligns with the marking on the sprocket and it has been zip-tied since I took it off the camshaft.
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Does the piston move down noticeably at 0 degrees?

The timing chain mark isn't likely to line up during a teardown, they are set when you install a new chain, but with the gear ratios, the chain can be in any position after the engine has been run, so even at TDC any marks on the chain can be distributed at any point on the chain. With a partial teardown like this all you can do is keep things lined up the way they were found unless you pull the front covers.
 
Does the piston move down noticeably at 0 degrees?

The timing chain mark isn't likely to line up during a teardown, they are set when you install a new chain, but with the gear ratios, the chain can be in any position after the engine has been run, so even at TDC any marks on the chain can be distributed at any point on the chain. With a partial teardown like this all you can do is keep things lined up the way they were found unless you pull the front covers.

Im honestly not sure, I can try and give that 32mm nut a little turn but I am weary of moving anything as its un-disturbed since the teardown..
 
Im honestly not sure, I can try and give that 32mm nut a little turn but I am weary of moving anything as its un-disturbed since the teardown..
I would not get to worked up right now at this point. From the pictures the only note would be to secure timing chain down low so it will not drop or slip off crank.
The loose chain, pic#1 blue rags picture, shows enough "slop" that when things are moved the chain could drop.
IE SPEAKING from experience.
In Following FSM the alignment of all the components' is covered before getting to far. Crank, cams, distributors, timing, etc.
Enjoy putting back together. Like the Valve cover porn.
 

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