Hzj75 Rear axle/diff options? (1 Viewer)

[landcruising4132]

Like many others have
i snapped all the studs off my rear hub and i've come up with a few options to fix it
firstly it is a Hzj75 with a drum rear so i am guessing that a hj/fj rear hub would fit? what about a 60 series hub?

Option 1:
replace the rear hub and add extra dowels to prevent it from happening again

Option 2:
find a rear diff housing from a rear disc brake and covert it to a disc brake rear


My main question is that if i went to down the road of option 2 i would want to run a 80 series hub/disc set up on the back (increasing the tracking width by 60mm by what if read anyway) if i did this i would need to correct the front. Does the Hilux ifs hub fit on a hzj75?, iv only read about it on 60 and 73/4 threads. i know the hub conversion gives you 3 inch track width increase so it would only be a 8mm difference on each side so not that important. I would be running -25 offset on my rims giving me almost a 5inch track width increase. Considering it be giving me 2.5inch increase of width would it be as straining on the bearings as adding spacers or have bit offset rims? or is it just the same stress but a safer way to increase track width?

 

[Estancio]

Why no Option 3: replace the studs?

 

[landcruising4132]

Because the original hub has been scared when the studs broke and would much prefer a new(used) $80 hub than spend a few hours drilling taping and filing down the the original. Obviously option 2 would be more expensive and more time involved but at least i get disc brakes and more width

 

[Malahki]

For a long time I had been planning to run the 80 series housing in the rear and then widen my stock front housing. I think its a much better option then spacers or IFS hubs and not that much more work if doing a cut and turn castor correction at the same time. The downside is it requires custom length axle shafts. I purchased 2.5" wide collars through LCwizard on the forum. Here are a few pics and the link to the thread where I copied them from:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/notched-60-front-axles.196544/

 

[Behemoth60]

Like many here, I too have had at least two vehicles with snapped Full Floating Rear axle studs. The root cause of both of my occurrences has been a bent rear axle housing.
When heavily laden (as many Land Cruisers are), and running down a rough back-country road (as all Land Cruisers should) and you hit a whoop or pot hole that bottoms out the rear suspension, you can, and I propose, you do, bend the rear axle housing between the spring mount and the spindle. This causes the hub to be off-axis with the axle shaft, and the axle shaft then puts enormous forces on the studs, which, when coupled with axle torque, causes the dreaded snapped studs.
Other bent rear axle housing symptoms I have noticed… difficulty getting splines lined up to fully inserting rear axle shaft, consistently leaky or ruined rear axle seals, and ‘sticky’ locker engagement/disengagement.
I propose that new hubs and reinforced studs will mask the problem, and may not really solve it. I bent my most recent rear axle on a trip to the arctic circle in 2009, and have limped along for 5 years chasing symptoms. After dumping huge money into upgrades to the axle (including new lockers, new axle shafts, and more studs and seals than I can count), I finally admitted to myself that it was the bent housing that was causing all my myriad problems.
Unfortunately, there’s not much to be done to solve bent rear axle housings, and no easy way to verify whether your axle is straight or not. I now have an axle alignment bar for building Dana 60 and GM 14 bolt axles, and I have been thinking of getting the proper alignment pucks manufactured to check alignment of Land Cruiser Axles to prove my theory. But, so what if I prove that all our Land Cruiser Axles are bent? Still doesn’t solve our problem. There’s no easy way to fix a bent housing, nor an easy way to prevent it from happening again in the future.
After many years of ignoring the problem myself, I am now advocating that if you overload your Cruiser and hit the backroads, you should upgrade your Land Cruiser axles to GM 14 Bolt axles. The 2001-2011 Chev/GM 2500HD pick-up which had the 6.0L V8 gas engine has a factory rear disk brake axle with drum in hat parking brakes. Awesome upgrade, they are plentiful, cheap, and have every imaginable aftermarket upgrade available, including aftermarket hubs to match Land Cruiser wheels. Not exactly an evening fix to your sheared studs, but might prevent sheared studs when you are in Tok, Alaska, 3,000 km’s from home, (that's where my first bent axle-brokent studs left me stranded)

 

[Malahki]

Good points and seems to make sense as to why they might be breaking. Also what is the WMS widths on the 14bolt rear axles you mentioned? And what are you suggesting for the front to match up with them? If the Toyota housings are the weak links then another good option would be the RuffStuff Toyota housings
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/LC95HOS.html

I also see that JustDifferentials offers custom built front RuffStuff housing in a 80 series width using 80 series knuckles as used in their project "Inigo" (post #32)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ju...ser-lhd-from-spain.695188/page-2#post-8433257

 

[Blade]

I am here in Sucre, Bolivia and met a swiss guy with a HZJ78 and he bought ORGINAL TOYOTA axle housing reinforcements that were welded in south africa to his axle because he broke the axle housing on african roads. He said that is something that is known to Toyota and is seen often in south africa! This are big metal plates that go from the diff part to the ends and are welded all the way.
I wonder if my 1993 HZJ75 is also the same as the HZJ78?
But anyway, I guess such a housing reinforcement would maybe be the solution instead of changing to GM axles?!