i have a hzj75 turboed it seems to gain temp when motor is worked ie on a hill it is normelly fine driving around just when you sit on a long hill the temp rises (above half have had it in red) it does fall once cruising on flat or down hill but what can i do to prevent motor damage. i have had the radiator cleaned out, put a new clutch fan on her any ideas on what it could be???
hzj75 cooling trouble
- Thread starter bushwalker
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I've got an HZ / Safari Turbo in my 60 series. Same issue. I think a lot of us have a mild-to-serious heating issue with these and long hills with heavy loads.
The easiest solution - slow down
Removing 1/4inch bug mesh = 1/2 needle lower
moving winch controller out of air path = 1/2 needle lower
Alum. Radiator = 2 needle widths lower
Toyota Red & Water wetter = 1-2 needle widths lower
Customizing the fan shroud = a little help
Temps: EGT's hit 1100f things start to heat up. Within 1-2 minutes my top radiator tube is 197-203f, bottom-outlet is 175f+-. All the mods I did (above) helped enough to get over most hills/mountains where I live, but not the long ones.
I'm chicken to push too hard as I don't want to spend the repair dollars.
Smart Purchase: Dual thermastat remote barbeque thermometer $29USA. Tape one probe on radiator top tube, other probe where you want it and read the temps in cab while moving. A side benefit is that it beeps when the Turkey is done
Next steps= intercooler
Is your fuel turned up,getting black smoke? That will make an engine hot. Clean air filters let more fresh air in.
- Thread starter
- #4
fuel is turned up but it only blows black when foot is flat was dun by a local deisal tuner. i am considering a four core radiator might help i have already modified fan shroud when i did body lift, may have to look into some of bluehzt60's idea's i may need to lay of fuel pedal a bit going uphill lol
I too had the same trouble, on a 2001 Troopie, with an aftermarket Safari Turbo. I found I had a light handbrake drag but more importantly, my exhaust was slightly flow challenged (blocked). Had it cleaned out (took it off and banged it with a hammer) and all is now good in my world
Ive heard of some owners retro fitting the HDJ7* radiators from the 98- turbo models into 75 series with aftermarket turbos. These are aluminum with plastic tanks,but they reckon they work.
) tell us your EGT numbers .. - Thread starter
- #11
i will get a pyro next week and see what she says man
1985 BJ70 3B diesel Canadian with a axt turbo kit, same problem.
I installed a 4 core radiator, replaced the fan clutch, installed red water wetter, checked boost level at 8psi, reset the fuel level down till it lost power and egt pre turbo temps would not go over 1050F, replaced radiator hoses top and bottom, replaced water pump, installed high volume flex fan, removed the fan clutch and added a solid adapter, advanced timing on injection pump, installed water alcohol injection after turbo for a intercooler action, finally I started checking out my thermostat.My thermostat was a 185F and it opened per the manual at 183F and opened beyond 10mm at 203F so far so good. Now comes the fun part my thermostat was in the rig when I bought it and I found the actual opening is smaller than a Toyota thermostat by 5 mm. The net effect was even though it opened as it should it could not flow the correct amount. I have installed a new Toyota thermostat and it appears to have changed the overheat under heavy load to an acceptable level. I am looking into rerouting the bypass hose with a 3 way valve and a ported vacuum switch to allow the bypass to act as another route to the radiator flowing more water at the right time during the heat up and cool down cycle while leaving the bypass to function like it should when the engine is cold. I hope others can shed more light on this subject.
Jim.
I installed a 4 core radiator, replaced the fan clutch, installed red water wetter, checked boost level at 8psi, reset the fuel level down till it lost power and egt pre turbo temps would not go over 1050F, replaced radiator hoses top and bottom, replaced water pump, installed high volume flex fan, removed the fan clutch and added a solid adapter, advanced timing on injection pump, installed water alcohol injection after turbo for a intercooler action, finally I started checking out my thermostat.My thermostat was a 185F and it opened per the manual at 183F and opened beyond 10mm at 203F so far so good. Now comes the fun part my thermostat was in the rig when I bought it and I found the actual opening is smaller than a Toyota thermostat by 5 mm. The net effect was even though it opened as it should it could not flow the correct amount. I have installed a new Toyota thermostat and it appears to have changed the overheat under heavy load to an acceptable level. I am looking into rerouting the bypass hose with a 3 way valve and a ported vacuum switch to allow the bypass to act as another route to the radiator flowing more water at the right time during the heat up and cool down cycle while leaving the bypass to function like it should when the engine is cold. I hope others can shed more light on this subject.
Jim.
Last edited:
I have 3 1HZ engines, and I was really impressed how the 1hz handles heat way better than the 3B (ie does not heat up). I put a turbo-glide turbo on my 97 Troopy and the temps were very low, however I noticed when I replaced the whole exhaust with a new 2.5" over the stock the temp were even lower. I have to agree with everyone else on here, take your foot out of it, but I also can say that I know the safari runs more boost than the turbo-glide, the turbo-glide runs at most 10psi I think the safari is more like 14lbs right?
My pyro runs around 600f normally and under a big load might reach 1000f. which is perfect for me, and probably why it never heats up. I run the turbo stock out of the box (7-10psi) and only ever gave the fuel 1/2 turn.
Cheers,
Michael
My pyro runs around 600f normally and under a big load might reach 1000f. which is perfect for me, and probably why it never heats up. I run the turbo stock out of the box (7-10psi) and only ever gave the fuel 1/2 turn.
Cheers,
Michael
Thought pre turbo .. if you run a post turbo pyro must add 200 - 300ªF to the pyro reading to calculate the pre turbo temp ..