- Thread starter
- #281
@NeverGiveUpYota thanks for the feedback.
Another Cruiserhead suggested that 1/4" was overkill, but 3/16" would solid. Sounds like a good range.
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@NeverGiveUpYota thanks for the feedback.
Another Cruiserhead suggested that 1/4" was overkill, but 3/16" would solid. Sounds like a good range.
- Thread starter
- #282
Got that atrocious body work cleaned up a little bit and threw some primer on there.
- Thread starter
- #283
Ordered 4 gallons of Lizard Skin Sound Control and 4 gallons of Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation.
Hoping to get the roof, floor and doors if possible. Their website says I need about 13.5 gallons to do everything properly. But that's like $1250 so no thanks.
Figure it's good enough to get going on this while the interior is ripped out. Would rather not spend 20 hours methodically cutting NOICO. If it works great, if not hopefully it will cut down on some rattles and heat.
Will find out soon enough.
Hoping to get the roof, floor and doors if possible. Their website says I need about 13.5 gallons to do everything properly. But that's like $1250 so no thanks.
Figure it's good enough to get going on this while the interior is ripped out. Would rather not spend 20 hours methodically cutting NOICO. If it works great, if not hopefully it will cut down on some rattles and heat.
Will find out soon enough.
- Thread starter
- #284
Updates on some recent work... what I like to call progress.
First, I was able to get the rear bumper off. It required cutting some rusted out bolts. What I found did not make me happy...
But better to know what you are dealing with, than live in denial. I'll have to sort this out. It will involve cutting and welding in new plates. But now that I know where on the chassis I need to add some strength I feel better knowing what to fix than just doing some sort of "ignorance is bliss" nonsense.
First, I was able to get the rear bumper off. It required cutting some rusted out bolts. What I found did not make me happy...
But better to know what you are dealing with, than live in denial. I'll have to sort this out. It will involve cutting and welding in new plates. But now that I know where on the chassis I need to add some strength I feel better knowing what to fix than just doing some sort of "ignorance is bliss" nonsense.
- Thread starter
- #285
Next it was time to finally start finishing up the wheel wells that I cut out back at some point and never got around to welding back together.
This wheel well had some challenging cuts, angles and the pinch weld was annoying.
Once my terrible welds were sufficiently grinded down (which was haphazard) and I got to the point that it seemed like there were little to no pinholes, I threw some primer on it all over the place.
After the primer, I judicially applied POR-15 Undercoating. I have all the steps I've taken will extend the wheel well 1, 5, 10 or longer years. But I feel confident that it was worth it for where I am at in terms of wanting to keep the FJ62 around for a while.
This wheel well had some challenging cuts, angles and the pinch weld was annoying.
Once my terrible welds were sufficiently grinded down (which was haphazard) and I got to the point that it seemed like there were little to no pinholes, I threw some primer on it all over the place.
After the primer, I judicially applied POR-15 Undercoating. I have all the steps I've taken will extend the wheel well 1, 5, 10 or longer years. But I feel confident that it was worth it for where I am at in terms of wanting to keep the FJ62 around for a while.
- Thread starter
- #286
There was some gnarly rust around the driver's side rear wheel well. I unfortunately did not finish welding it. However, I think I got a decent chunk of it out of the way.
The real trouble is that when Toyota made the floor plan it seems they used a super light interior gauge steel and then a thicker under body carriage for additional support. There is rubber, undercoating on the thick steel - which in places had rusted. Then there is the rust between the under-steel and the thin interior steel. Great idea engineers.
Hope to get this out of the way in the next short while so I can have the interior 100% done with welding.
The real trouble is that when Toyota made the floor plan it seems they used a super light interior gauge steel and then a thicker under body carriage for additional support. There is rubber, undercoating on the thick steel - which in places had rusted. Then there is the rust between the under-steel and the thin interior steel. Great idea engineers.
Hope to get this out of the way in the next short while so I can have the interior 100% done with welding.
- Thread starter
- #287
While I tended to the wheel wells, I found a moment to weld the pinhole in the windshield frame (passenger's side).
Since I pulled the windshield, it became necessary to dive into anything window related with some zest. Since I need to get windows back in before it starts raining. With no garage, I've had to really prioritize getting exterior work done ASAP.
Friday night I used the POR-15 Metal Prep (after using a metal cleaner to get out any leftover materials along the upper and lower gain gutters.
Saturday afternoon, I found a moment to apply POR-15 to a bunch of spots.
Yes, I totally got POR-15 all over the exterior. No, I don't care. I am about to start body work on this truck, reseal the gutters with seam sealer and replace the front fenders.
Anyway, the truck will get repainted soon enough - at least without as much rust.
Since I pulled the windshield, it became necessary to dive into anything window related with some zest. Since I need to get windows back in before it starts raining. With no garage, I've had to really prioritize getting exterior work done ASAP.
Friday night I used the POR-15 Metal Prep (after using a metal cleaner to get out any leftover materials along the upper and lower gain gutters.
Saturday afternoon, I found a moment to apply POR-15 to a bunch of spots.
Yes, I totally got POR-15 all over the exterior. No, I don't care. I am about to start body work on this truck, reseal the gutters with seam sealer and replace the front fenders.
Anyway, the truck will get repainted soon enough - at least without as much rust.
- Thread starter
- #288
Totally random... But I was looking for a picture of my wife on her facebook account AND I stumbled upon a few LandCruiser pics from a trip she took 10 years ago to Egypt.
What is this - an HJ61?
What is this - an HJ61?
- Thread starter
- #289
Between August and December there has been some major movement with the truck. I've really dived into the deep end and there is starting to be a light at the end of the tunnel. I just need a pot of gold to get me there and I'll be all set.
I am not really sure where to start since I've done so much in the last 4 months. Maybe I'll start from today and move backwards.
Right now the truck is off to paint. The chassis is finished and the body panels/doors/hood/tailgate are up next.
My wife/myself decided to go with Metallic Blue 861, which was not offered for the FJ62 based on my research. But the color is OEM, so that is really rad.
I am not really sure where to start since I've done so much in the last 4 months. Maybe I'll start from today and move backwards.
Right now the truck is off to paint. The chassis is finished and the body panels/doors/hood/tailgate are up next.
My wife/myself decided to go with Metallic Blue 861, which was not offered for the FJ62 based on my research. But the color is OEM, so that is really rad.
- Thread starter
- #290
The last week I've been prepping all the parts that are about to go off to paint. Lots of bolts, broken plastic tabs, old weatherstripping, some beer to soothe the pain and late nights.
I've tried my darnedest to get the everything labeled and placed safely in boxes, since I know its going to be a real B*tch to put everything back together. Need to order new clips, bolts, tabs, etc to piece the truck back together.
I've tried my darnedest to get the everything labeled and placed safely in boxes, since I know its going to be a real B*tch to put everything back together. Need to order new clips, bolts, tabs, etc to piece the truck back together.
- Thread starter
- #291
Skipping around a little bit, since the last two weeks have been a blur.
I am in the process of installing a CruiserCorps headliner.
One issue I ran into was that I did not label the ribs when I took them out earlier this year. This meant figuring out which ribs go where.
If you go to SOR or Partsouq you can see that there are 8 ribs in total.
5 of them are the same length, 2 of them are the same length and 1 of them is a different length than all the other 7 ribs.
So measuring is one route you can go - and I did do this.
But then I went to SOR and took a look at the SKUs - 821 is marked as Yellow and go figure at the end of the tips it is marked yellow on 5 of my ribs.
Next I saw for part 822 - The color choices are Blue, Red, Yellow. I have two that look like a dark Green, maybe 31 years ago they were blue.
Lastly the final remaining 823 - This is black looking - so since its the last one it must be for the rear.
Hope this is helpful for anyone that forgot to label their ribs and is going through the process of re-installing their headliner.
I am in the process of installing a CruiserCorps headliner.
One issue I ran into was that I did not label the ribs when I took them out earlier this year. This meant figuring out which ribs go where.
If you go to SOR or Partsouq you can see that there are 8 ribs in total.
5 of them are the same length, 2 of them are the same length and 1 of them is a different length than all the other 7 ribs.
So measuring is one route you can go - and I did do this.
But then I went to SOR and took a look at the SKUs - 821 is marked as Yellow and go figure at the end of the tips it is marked yellow on 5 of my ribs.
Next I saw for part 822 - The color choices are Blue, Red, Yellow. I have two that look like a dark Green, maybe 31 years ago they were blue.
Lastly the final remaining 823 - This is black looking - so since its the last one it must be for the rear.
Hope this is helpful for anyone that forgot to label their ribs and is going through the process of re-installing their headliner.
- Thread starter
- #292
Before installing the headliner I spent a great deal of time over the last week preparing and then applying LizardSkin to the interior.
For anyone considering doing LizardSkin, I would say this is a very laborious process.
High level steps
1. Spend hours and hours researching whether or not to do LizardSkin or Noico
2. Debate about buying Sound Control only or add Ceramic Insulation
3. How much to buy of each? - I went with 4 gallons of Sound Control and 4 gallons of Ceramic Insulation and bought it from Summit Racing
4. Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 1.5 gallon paint guns - its $30 vs $85 for the kit from LizardSkin
5. If you don't have a metal mixer for mixing the LizardSkin, get one from Home Depot for $5 - you'll need to spin the LizardSkin for 2-4 minutes with a Drill to get it to a good consistency.
6. Once you have your compressor, fittings, regulator and protective gear all ready its time to prepare your vehicle
7. Strip out everything. Unbolt everything.
8. Previously I took out all the original sound deadener with dry ice and repaired rust throughout the body. I also welded all the old roof rack holes.
9. For the roof you will want to use a powerful dual -action sander - I used a Festool 150 Rotex with 80 grit sandpaper. I then did this to the floor. It took a really long time ( two nights)
10. Tape, Tape, Tape EVERYTHING - unless you want LizardSkin to get all over your paint job. Clean all the surfaces you sanded with alcohol or other metal cleaner. You want a clean surface for the LizardSkin to apply to.
11. Place aluminum foil over nuts, and in bolt holes, tape or use aluminum on any electrical parts
12. Take a few beer breaks
13. Mix your LizardSkin. Start with Sound Control.
14. I did two gallons for the first round, let it sit for 5-6 hours and dry before doing another 1.5 gallons. I had the heat on in the garage and space heaters.
15. After letting it sit for 24 hours ( I waited 14 hours) you can start doing this all over again with the Ceramic Insulation.
16. You'll want to clean the tip / nozzle of your paint gun in-between every session, since this stuff dries on really hard.
17. After waiting another night I started the process of cleaning everything up. Taking off all the tape, cleaning up the bolts, nuts, all the plastic wrapping.
18. Get back to work - you still have the headliner to do....
For anyone considering doing LizardSkin, I would say this is a very laborious process.
High level steps
1. Spend hours and hours researching whether or not to do LizardSkin or Noico
2. Debate about buying Sound Control only or add Ceramic Insulation
3. How much to buy of each? - I went with 4 gallons of Sound Control and 4 gallons of Ceramic Insulation and bought it from Summit Racing
4. Go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their 1.5 gallon paint guns - its $30 vs $85 for the kit from LizardSkin
5. If you don't have a metal mixer for mixing the LizardSkin, get one from Home Depot for $5 - you'll need to spin the LizardSkin for 2-4 minutes with a Drill to get it to a good consistency.
6. Once you have your compressor, fittings, regulator and protective gear all ready its time to prepare your vehicle
7. Strip out everything. Unbolt everything.
8. Previously I took out all the original sound deadener with dry ice and repaired rust throughout the body. I also welded all the old roof rack holes.
9. For the roof you will want to use a powerful dual -action sander - I used a Festool 150 Rotex with 80 grit sandpaper. I then did this to the floor. It took a really long time ( two nights)
10. Tape, Tape, Tape EVERYTHING - unless you want LizardSkin to get all over your paint job. Clean all the surfaces you sanded with alcohol or other metal cleaner. You want a clean surface for the LizardSkin to apply to.
11. Place aluminum foil over nuts, and in bolt holes, tape or use aluminum on any electrical parts
12. Take a few beer breaks
13. Mix your LizardSkin. Start with Sound Control.
14. I did two gallons for the first round, let it sit for 5-6 hours and dry before doing another 1.5 gallons. I had the heat on in the garage and space heaters.
15. After letting it sit for 24 hours ( I waited 14 hours) you can start doing this all over again with the Ceramic Insulation.
16. You'll want to clean the tip / nozzle of your paint gun in-between every session, since this stuff dries on really hard.
17. After waiting another night I started the process of cleaning everything up. Taking off all the tape, cleaning up the bolts, nuts, all the plastic wrapping.
18. Get back to work - you still have the headliner to do....
- Thread starter
- #293
More prep and paint photos and the eventual cleanup.
- Thread starter
- #294
Finished product
4 gallons of each? Dayum! I only used one of each.
- Thread starter
- #296
@GLTHFJ60 I probably have a gallon left of each. I want to spray whatever is left in the doors. Might just focus on the two front doors. Was thinking about doing the tailgate. I have 24 sq feet of noico that I bought for the frontdoors two years ago and never used. We'll see what I end up doing.
I live in Bozeman where its frozen for half the year, so want the ceramic insulation to keep me warm for car camping !
I live in Bozeman where its frozen for half the year, so want the ceramic insulation to keep me warm for car camping !
- Thread starter
- #297
Recent work and updates
FJ62 is off to Overland Cruisers for heart surgery. The engine I am swapping in will be a brand spanking new LS3 6.2 mated to a 6L80.
I'll be upgrading the bumpers to @TRAIL TAILOR for front and rear. The rear bumper will have swing-outs for the Spare and Jerry cans.
Front bumper will have a hoop and space for me to add a winch at a later date.
Other build things happening.
FJ62 is off to Overland Cruisers for heart surgery. The engine I am swapping in will be a brand spanking new LS3 6.2 mated to a 6L80.
I'll be upgrading the bumpers to @TRAIL TAILOR for front and rear. The rear bumper will have swing-outs for the Spare and Jerry cans.
Front bumper will have a hoop and space for me to add a winch at a later date.
Other build things happening.
- OME Heavy Lift
- Upgraded headlights
- Finishing up paint and body repairs on the doors, hood, tailgate and fenders
- Will get some of the hardware re-plated (either Gold Cadmium or Yellow Zinc) - Looking at using Van Nuys Plating after reading about them on the forum
- Terrain Tamer slotted rotors
- Cruiser Crap Center Console
- Upgraded to NEX4500 Pioneer Head Unit with Rear Camera
- Speedhut Gauges from @FJ60Cam and @TRAIL TAILOR brackets
- Going with 34" BFG KO2 LT285/75R/R17 - Rims are in progress
- Thread starter
- #298
Here are some of the parts that I want to get plated. I think I'll be adding some more, like the Hood Latch and the Hood Spring/Hangers.
Any other major items folks think I should be adding some bling and corrosion resistance to?
Any other major items folks think I should be adding some bling and corrosion resistance to?
- Thread starter
- #299
Picked up these snazzy door vapor barriers from fellow Mudder @NearJetties ! Many thanks man. Just need to get some butyl ( and the doors re-assembled.
I love the color you went with. I've thought if I ever paint mine, I'd go with Cavalry Blue. That engine is going to be bada$$! How long have you live in Bozeman, I thought you were in CA at the beginning of the thread? If you ever make it out to Coeur D Alene after all this covid crap is over hit me up, we can go for a cruise.
Cheers to all the hard and rewarding work so far!!
Cheers to all the hard and rewarding work so far!!
