Builds Hundo Family Truckster (1 Viewer)

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Laplata Canyon/Columbus Basin. So lucky to have this so close.

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Couple install pics for the RCA routing from the front. It's the newer looking loom.

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Electrical tape, wire and grease make the job of fishing the RCA through the firewall easy and very little damage to the boot (just a small slit easily sealed with silicone).

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This is where I placed the toggle, ideally will get it on the dash somewhere but need to do some more wire routing.

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I ended up wanting to see more of what was right in front of the bumper, so I moved the front camera to a more adjustable location. with the fish eye lens you can still easily see what is directly in front as well.

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Installing the first stage of the OBA. Viair 400p mounted next to the power steering reservoir. I chose the area as I thought it would give the most fresh cool air, as opposed to in front of the air filter box. Also with the style of the newer hose it did not seem to be able to get it off and on very easy in front of the air filter box. This may change when I go to a 2 battery system but that's a bit down the road.

Self taping screw and stacks of rubber washers to keep out moisture and reduce vibration. The new 400Ps seem much quieter than the old one I had. After I tapped the holes I cut of the drill portion of the screws so the screws only protrude into the wheel a couple of mm's. some of the wire looms look close but the picturre is deceiving, all of them are a good 3-4 inches away from the compressor head (hot).

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15 year old Viair hose compared to the new one. Much improved.

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Air-Lift Install with replacement OEM rear shocks

old and new shocks, spend the $$ on the 22 mm ratcheting wrench for the top nut, you will thank me.

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This is how high I had to lift the entire rear end to be able to articulate the suspension enough to remove the coils after removing shocks and sway bar links.

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6 Ton jackstands on the frame in front of the rear axle is the way to do this.


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Drilling out the hole for the air line. A right angle drill with a step bit sure helps in here.

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Routing the line through the frame, with a generous amount of slack for articulation.

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I had a reasonable size hole in the rear bumper cover, so I decided to just make a brushed SS plate and cover it up and put the valves there.

Before

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After

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I'm thinking a matching plate on the other side with an quick air chuck for the OBA would be good.

Not sure if its the new shocks or the bags (5 psi only for now), but the back is sitting an inch or so higher.

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I love the work you've done so far. Did you paint your wheels or dip them?

They are dipped. If I did it again I would do the glossifier. Not for the shiny aspect but the fact that it sheds the mud splashes better that the flat texture, think PAM for wheels. They still look pretty good clean but the splashes have to be rubbed out. Mud whatsat?

Little lunch time shakedown out back.

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New Curt hitch installed. I really like the design of this hitch over the Draw-Tight that was on there before. I can't stand how low the plug hangs so I am going to try and put it through the somewhat trashed bumper cover. Tekonsha Prodigy in the ashtray area.

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Thanks to some Mud members recommendations was able to get the 7 blade female unit flush with the bumper. Still not getting 12v to the trailer lights. Ordered a new plugnplay converter as it does not seem like my rig has the OEM one, at least not in the usual locations (behind drivers tail light or behind OEM bottle jack location).

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Installed BORA 1.25" wheel spacers. After having had Spidertrax spacers and seen some of the cheapies on the market I definitely think the BORA ones are good-great quality. Shot for comparison.

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Before

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After

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One thing I would note on the install is that they do have to be aligned properly by rotating them. Also be sure and get them snugged by hand pretty well with both the spacers and the wheels prior to hitting with the impact wrench and torque wrench, especially on the fronts.

Torqued to 97 ft lbs on the spacers and the wheels.

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Finally figured out why the trailer lights were not working. Spent hours on here researching and searching to no avail. I deducted that it must be the trailer converter has gone bad. Ordered a Curt one to replace the OEM one and then when I started digging into the wiring I realized there is a 30 amp fuse right next to it. The trailer converter is shown here in Red, and the micro-blade 30a fuse holder is the green thing. Lo and behold the fuse was blown and replacing it allowed my trailer lights to start working. BOOM

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Here is the fuse in relation

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Finally got everything done to be able to pull the camp trailer.

Weight distribution hitch, with sway control.

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Both the trailer and cruiser sit pretty level with no weight in the back and the trailer dry. Will need to adjust airlift as we add people and gear (generator).

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