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Dec 13, 2021
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Los Angeles
1972 FJ 55, I bought new rims for it and need to have the outside diameter of the front hunts machined about .015 so the wheels will fit. The wheels have a lip so the vanity center cap retention spring. Anyone ever turn down the front hubs a bit. I prefer to turn down the front hubs instead of machining the wheels. Attached is a photo of the wheels.
 
Curious if the wheel clear the hubs in the rear? Years ago I was checking wheels on the 68 FJ40. The wheel slipped over the lugs far enough to install the lug nuts but was not flush against the brake drum.
 
Curious if the wheel clear the hubs in the rear? Years ago I was checking wheels on the 68 FJ40. The wheel slipped over the lugs far enough to install the lug nuts but was not flush against the brake drum.
Wheels fit the rear perfectly. I could machine the wheels, but I would have to do all of them if I want to rotate them. Once my disc brake kit arrives, I’ll take everything to a machinist and figure out the best solution, Stay tuned. I’m getting closer to getting it running / driving.
 
Easy enough, you will need to remove the wheel studs. Most shops would want you to get all the grease out.
Thanks for the info, I’ll update when I find a shop. The wheels and tires are going to look great. I upsized to a 17” inch rim and a 285 / 70 / 17 rim.

8B48C64E-E34B-48D9-B732-D76C1426F452.jpeg
 
1. The wheel is going to come to rest, not on the locking hub, but on the hub housing, so if you go down this road, you would need to get them both turned down. I have NEVER heard of anyone doing this, and personally don’t think it’s a good idea.
2. Those wheels don’t look to have sufficient offset to clear the tie rod ends and knuckle arms on the front axle. SO, you could be taking a long one way ride down a dead end street. Unless the 17” rim is that much larger that it will completely wrap around the steering components, instead of dressing up to them. My 16” rims don’t wrap around, and theoretically, yours would only have an extra 1/2”.
 

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