How's this front axle look? (1 Viewer)

[e9999]

the weeping itself does not hurt anything as long as there is enough grease in the knuckle. Of course, it also likely means that the oil seal is shot. But some oil in the knuckle cavity is not a critical issuel IMO (doesn't LR use that OEM?).
All the same, the clicking is not good, that suggests an intervention is needed sooner rather than later. I would not wait too long.

 

[MARLIN375]

I'll be a little bit of a contrarian here and suggest no need to wig out. There's supposed to be continuous weeping of grease onto that spherical surface, and the thinner component is indicative new seals and repack are in order. But the far worse scenario is seeing that surface dry. Yours looks like the knuckle is still properly feeding grease out the seals. Personally, I'd pump a half tube of moly grease into each knuckle via the square plug (goes for your 93 also if you have no idea of the state) and drive it until you have the parts and the time together.

Just ensure the front diff is full (pull upper plug and check) as well for peace of mind.

DougM

X 2...........grease is good, it means the PO was doing PM, due for seals?.......yes sir.
On a positive note anyone who spends time off-road usually gets that grease build up removed by under-brush, yours looks like build-up from day-1

 

[podiev]

.... Personally, I'd pump a half tube of moly grease into each knuckle via the square plug (goes for your 93 also if you have no idea of the state) and drive it until you have the parts and the time together.

Just ensure the front diff is full (pull upper plug and check) as well for peace of mind.

DougM

Can somebody send a pic/diagram of where this square plug is located? I'll put some moly grease/diff lube this weekend as I might have the same dilemna as daveg(although not that nasty). Am planning to do front-axle service this 2nd week of March.

 

[daveg]

Ok did some searching and found that I should just remove plug and stick the end of the grease gun in the hole, doesn't sound to hard. BTW just curoius as to ballpark cost of this rebuild kit. Thanks again for all the input everyone.

 

[treehugger]

dam

 

[peepers]

Was dreading that response. This would be the biggest automotive job I've ever done. Also this is my DD so if something goes wrong or I screw it up, not gonna be good. What's the time estimate 2 full days? These things usually take me longer than usual. I'm a 5 trips to Home Depot per household project type of person.

do yourself a favor. get the full kitsw from cruiser dan he will know all the parts you need then, find someone in your area with experience to help. take yor time and it will be fine. or, if you are that worried, screw it and briing it to the dealer (i am sure i will get flamed for that part)

 

[daveg]

treehugger

 

[Hayes]

Yeah, I say no reason to get worked up.

Nasty grease all over the outside of your knuckles doesn't mean the inside is a disaster. Clicking doesn't necessarily mean you have a major problem with the birfs themselves either.

The full front-end service was my first major undertaking on my 80, and my first real foray into IH8MUD. The job is not difficult. It's messy and will probably take you a full weekend, but you'd have to be significantly short on brains for this to be outside your capabilities.

There are hours worth of posts and write-ups with pictures on this forum. Prices can be found as well.
You have to search for it, though.

Spend a night doing research, print-out step-by step instructions, save images to your computer, and order a full-rebuild kit from Dan or somebody else.
Get everything ready to go, right down to the paper towels and clean work area.

Give'er the full wheel & trunion bearing to knuckle wiper treatment, and report back here with pride and satisfaction.

Hayes

Ok did some searching and found that I should just remove plug and stick the end of the grease gun in the hole, doesn't sound to hard. BTW just curoius as to ballpark cost of this rebuild kit. Thanks again for all the input everyone.

 

[Beowulf]

One more suggestion before you tear into your knuckles.... Buy 2 or 3 spray cans of HD degreaser and make a couple of trips to the 2-bit car wash. Soak those things down really good, let the degreaser soak in, and hit it with the high pressure spray. You will have a much less messy job if you can get those things cleaned up beforehand.

-B-

 

[IdahoDoug]

X2 on the degrease process. I get under there with a screwdriver, a toothbrush and a couple narrow scrapers first to loosen the thick stuff and get it down to semi bare metal. Not just the knuckle spheres, but all over the brake backing plate, etc. Then do the degreaser process. Big help and takes 3/4 of the messy aspect away.

DougM

 

[FJ60Cam]

Looks like a 12-pack waiting to happen!

 

[Mlachica]

One more suggestion before you tear into your knuckles.... Buy 2 or 3 spray cans of HD degreaser and make a couple of trips to the 2-bit car wash. Soak those things down really good, let the degreaser soak in, and hit it with the high pressure spray. You will have a much less messy job if you can get those things cleaned up beforehand.

-B-

Is it okay to spray it all down with brake cleaner? Or is that bad for the seals?

 

[Ting]

X2 on the degrease process. I get under there with a screwdriver, a toothbrush and a couple narrow scrapers first to loosen the thick stuff and get it down to semi bare metal. Not just the knuckle spheres, but all over the brake backing plate, etc. Then do the degreaser process. Big help and takes 3/4 of the messy aspect away.

DougM

Then do you all repaint or respray it after it get it down to bare metal to protect from rust?

 

[Beowulf]

I don't think the degreaser you buy at Pep boys (Gunk, et al) will take off the paint as long as you rinse it with hot soapy water at high pressure within a short time (1hr?)

-B-

 

[eastiec]

X2 on the degrease process. I get under there with a screwdriver, a toothbrush and a couple narrow s****ers first to loosen the thick stuff and get it down to semi bare metal. Not just the knuckle spheres, but all over the brake backing plate, etc. Then do the degreaser process. Big help and takes 3/4 of the messy aspect away.

DougM

Doug (or anyone...)

Obviously there's alot of crud around the knuckle, brake backing etc, but what should it look like? I have a '97 with 130k miles and I have some weepage from around the knuckles (not as much as this one), but my diffs have been drained and filled in the last month and I had my mechanic looks at the cv joints and he said there was plenty of greese in there - now I'm a little concerned. Should there be weepage and if so how much? Thanks - oh yeah, clearly I'm new at this...

 

[daveg]

Great idea about degreaser prior to taking it all apart. I may have to hold onto my 94' LC until I complete this job, just in case things don't go as smoothly as planned. Was planning on selling it soon. Would like to have this done before the Coal Miner Cruiser Classic.