How wheelable is a 100? (1 Viewer)

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Fitting 35" tires is a hot topic here, obviously without consensus. Regardless, you CAN fit everything up to and including 34" tires.
Lol, well I didn't want to stir the pot, but I have enjoyed having 35s on my Trooper. It really makes a difference on the trail.

I assume regear options are available to compensate.
 
those 295/70r18 tyres are only 34.3" inch diameter - not 35s. Perhaps the 3/4 of an inch makes the difference

34.41 actually. Yes, I'm sure it does help.
 
Why yes I have run Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100. Do some research and I think you will find I was the First to run Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100 back on October 27 2009.:)

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So how do you explain the picture above? The tire is clearly into the fender and turned it will contact. Could it be you have never reached the limit of compression of your AHC.;) Pictured below is what it looks likes.

View attachment 954169 View attachment 954170


I don't need to research your history. I wasn't the one who quoted your comment on a thread and disputed it's validity, without stating that you have personal experience running this same setup.

I don't need to explain the picture above. It's a poser shot, who cares.

Yup, you got me, I've never fully stuffed the front. These rub marks on the top of the fender liner (As I stated earlier.) and the clean spots on my bump stops prove your point.

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It takes way more mods to run 35's on an Isuzu Trooper than a 100 with AHC. Take your own advice and do some research.

If the OP was running 35's on a Trooper. Then 35's are perfect for him on a 100 series with AHC. I can't speak for 100's without AHC and stock suspension.
 
Lol, well I didn't want to stir the pot, but I have enjoyed having 35s on my Trooper. It really makes a difference on the trail.

I assume regear options are available to compensate.


Yes, they are. 4.88's are a perfect match for 295/70-18's
 
@CappyKD
Suspension geometry is identical between AHC and non AHC. I fail to see how AHC makes a difference with tire fitment.
Lifts (whether hydraulic or spring rate) don't enable larger tires. The suspension cylces through the same range on the same arc.
Tire fit variables that can be (easily) tweaked are wheel backspacing, body lifts, and restricting the suspension range with bump stop extensions.
 
^Is that the hard wheeling video?

FWIW, I had to make some changes to run "almost 35's" correctly. 295/70/18s TG's which are slightly bigger than the 295/70/18 AT Terras shown above.

However, I do not have AHC.
80 series L shock, 1" body lift (steering spacer, lowered radiator 1"), extended links and bump stops extended 1"

Before the body lift, my rubbing issues happened on higher speed compressions and off-camber turns especially steep downhill drop-offs. I still get some frame rail rubbing but the body lift eliminated most of my fender contact.

The problems occur (for me and the folks I know and run with often) when the entire vehicle is flexed and twisted or run and compressed at higher speeds. Not in the straight line wheel lifting that's shown in the above video. In a straight line you can get by without any modifications as shown above. Clearly Cappy is stuffing the rear wheel, but that's not as taxing as the entire vehicle compressing down or up/down hill off camber turns where you'll see most issues.

One issue leads to the next when you start trying to fix the rub issue, but it can be done. Running the L shock leads to lowered bump stops and extended sway bar links. Running the body lift leads to lowering the radiator, extending a brake line and adding .5" steering spacer. (YMMV) Everything leads to something else and every benefit has a consequence. We've even seen differences between two 100's set up almost identically where one will have issues and the other will not.


Nope, just a video showing full stuff of opposing wheels at the same time.

Here are a couple others, but not HARD wheeling.





I don't dispute that you will have more problems at high speed and could have issues under certain conditions at lower speeds, but with the mods it takes to run 35's on a trooper, I don't think that it's anything the OP should worry about.
 
@CappyKD
Suspension geometry is identical between AHC and non AHC. I fail to see how AHC makes a difference with tire fitment.
Lifts (whether hydraulic or spring rate) don't enable larger tires. The suspension cylces through the same range on the same arc.
Tire fit variables that can be (easily) tweaked are wheel backspacing, body lifts, and restricting the suspension range with bump stop extensions.


No it's not. Stock non AHC suspension sits at the same ride height and fender clearances as the N mode on an AHC 100. On the AHC equipped rig, you can hit a button and gain an additional 2.5"-3" of clearance between the tires and fenders.
 
No it's not. Stock non AHC suspension sits at the same ride height and fender clearances as the N mode on an AHC 100. On the AHC equipped rig, you can hit a button and gain an additional 2.5"-3" of clearance between the tires and fenders.

Same geometry. Same control arm length and mount points. The tire still moves through the exact same arc as a stock non AHC rig or a rig with OME t-bars.
 
When I say "the tire fits," it means the tire fits at any point along the suspension travel at any steering angle. These don't vary between AHC, stock, or lifted rigs.
 
I imagine you guys have seen this, but I had a vague memory of Expedition Portal picking the 100 in a used vehicle recommended list. Well I finally tracked it down, the "Top 10 Used Overland Vehicles - Our Picks for North America". Turns out it was written way back in 2011. At any rate, here is what they said about the 100:

I can hear the screaming and gnashing of teeth from the FZJ80 owners (I am one), but the reality is – the 100 series is just better for vehicle-based adventure travel. It has a much better motor with 100% better performance and can even manage 1-2 mpg better fuel economy. The 4.7L doesn’t eat head gaskets or PHHs and runs ice cold (no AC shutoff in the Mojave). Sure it doesn’t have a solid axle, which limits the most extreme terrain applications, but the 80 isn’t really that good at extreme terrain anyways. The 100 series also has excellent brakes that don’t fade after a few minutes on a twisty road. The interior is refined, comfortable and quiet. Overall fit and finish is class leading, as is interior materials and durability.
On the road, the 100 series will cruise comfortably at 85 mph all day long and then shift into low-range and tackle the most challenging terrain with just a few modifications. If you install an OME HD suspension, new shocks and 295/75 R16 BFG ATs, you will go just about anywhere you want to go in fantastic comfort. These trucks have also proven to be one of the most reliable vehicles ever imported to the US and it is not uncommon to find examples with 300,000 miles that are still rattle and leak free – impressive.


Pros:
  • World-class motor
  • Exceptional build quality
  • The most reliable Land Cruiser ever imported to North America
Cons:
  • Big
  • Can get really, really heavy if you are not careful with modifications
  • The front end needs some strengthening, both in the differential and a-arms when overloaded or overdriven
http://expeditionportal.com/top-10-used-overland-vehicles/

I think I am convinced. Now to find a good one, preferably one that is mechanically sound but with a reduced price due to peeling paint or some exterior flaw (since I am going to scratch it up anyway) :)
 
Same geometry. Same control arm length and mount points. The tire still moves through the exact same arc as a stock non AHC rig or a rig with OME t-bars.


^100% accurate^ Pull the shocks off and you get the exact droop with or without AHC 98-07 no matter who you are.
 
I wish it did!
 
No it's not. Stock non AHC suspension sits at the same ride height and fender clearances as the N mode on an AHC 100. On the AHC equipped rig, you can hit a button and gain an additional 2.5"-3" of clearance between the tires and fenders.
Y'all are crazy for wheelin the 100! It's built for soccer practice and mall runs!

Although it is fairly good at driving over small curbs:

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And the car wash of course:

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That why I own an 80 to;)
 
Here is mine on 315 Toyo ats. 2" lift, stock wheels with 1 1/4" spacers and pinch welds trimmed. Have had no rubbing while crawling and very minor rubbing on the front top inner fender at high speeds.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1413558505.084507.jpg
 
FWIW, when we measured available space for shocks at compressed and extended suspension travel for the front, there was slight differences between AHC trucks and non AHC trucks. We measured with torsion bars removed and compressed and extended the A arms until bump stops touched.

None of that would make 35's fit easier. I also call BS on a true 35" tire. I ran 35x12.5x16 on one of our trucks and can assure you that they will rub, but front and back. Problems on A arms and when you space the tire out, then you hit the front fender on compression.
 
FWIW, when we measured available space for shocks at compressed and extended suspension travel for the front, there was slight differences between AHC trucks and non AHC trucks. We measured with torsion bars removed and compressed and extended the A arms until bump stops touched.

None of that would make 35's fit easier. I also call BS on a true 35" tire. I ran 35x12.5x16 on one of our trucks and can assure you that they will rub, but front and back. Problems on A arms and when you space the tire out, then you hit the front fender on compression.

Christo,
What is the source of the difference between AHC and non AHC travel? Bump stops? Different arms?
 
How wheelable is a 100? You'd need a pretty modded 100 to do the trails you mentioned without tons of damage. It can be done if you're really dedicated to the platform. But there are a lot of platforms that would work better and need less modding. There's no easy way to get the 3-4" of lift you'd probably want for those trails.
 

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