How wheelable is a 100? (1 Viewer)

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Hi guys. This is my first post here. I currently have a 95 Isuzu Trooper, well set up with 35s, ARB lockers, armor, etc. I do a fair amount of general overlanding, but also do some moderate rock crawling. The toughest trail I do would probably be Golden Spike in Moab, and maybe the Rubicon someday, so

I am scouting for a newer rig (from a company that still operates in the US), and the early 2000s Land Cruiser 100s caught my eye. The IFS doesn't scare me (obviously), so I am just wondering how a 100 would perform on trails like these. Would the CV axles hold up (assuming judicious driving)? My Trooper has HD tie rods and rear axle links, what might a 100 need along those lines?
 
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Front diff breaks often - ARB fixes that.

Axles can break, but don't see too much of that.

Big ride for tight technical trails like the Rubicon. It's been done but not in the last few years (to my knowledge).
 
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Thanks. I better look up dimensions, I didn't think a 100 is that much bigger than my Trooper but maybe it is.

My understanding is the front diffs were weakest on the 98-99s, right? Is it much a problem after that?

I am also considering going with an 80, but that would be a lateral move, age-wise. But maybe it would be better-suited for what I want to do.
 

AimCOtaco

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Excellent over-lander, generally handles any trail an overland rig should.
Not many notoriously weak suspension parts but upgrades for everything are available.
Steering racks and oem early front diffs do fail.
Overall excellent durability/reliability.
Very heavily built when compared to a Trooper, you'll want upgrades for more capability not so much for reliability.

Fits over Black Bear pass just fine so not too big IMO, just takes some getting used to.
 
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Heh, I just did Black Bear in August - about a week before that Rubi rolled off. The first switchback was tight but I didn't find it to be all that difficult...Black Bear is more of a mental challenge than anything.

You might be surprised how heavily built a Trooper is. I have done a ton of wheeling with basically a stock drivetrain. But I digress.

upgrades for everything are available
That is a very nice thing. Definitely one of the downsides of an Isuzu these days. Even basic parts are starting to dry up, slowly.

I'll try to read up more before asking more newb questions, but how difficult are 35s to fit?
 
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Heh, I just did Black Bear in August - about a week before that Rubi rolled off. The first switchback was tight but I didn't find it to be all that difficult...Black Bear is more of a mental challenge than anything.

You might be surprised how heavily built a Trooper is. I have done a ton of wheeling with basically a stock drivetrain. But I digress.


That is a very nice thing. Definitely one of the downsides of an Isuzu these days. Even basic parts are starting to dry up, slowly.

I'll try to read up more before asking more newb questions, but how difficult are 35s to fit?


If you buy one with AHC you can run 35's with no mods.

I wheel my 100 pretty hard. Better approach and departure angles are the only things I wish I could improve.
 
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If you buy one with AHC you can run 35's with no mods.

I wheel my 100 pretty hard. Better approach and departure angles are the only things I wish I could improve.

Run 35's fully stuffed and turned without contacting any fenders? I find that hard to believe. There are more than a few threads discussing this.
 
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No rub in DD other than inside frame rail at full lock and pinch weld plastic rub. Both very minor. Zero fender rub. Occasional fender liner rub at full stuff, nothing bad enough to worry about.

My statement still stands true, with the lift the AHC provides, you can run 35's just fine, even for DD use. I have 12k miles on mine and a trip to Cruise Moab. Nothing but scuffs on the frame, fender liner and liner over pinch weld.
 
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No rub in DD other than inside frame rail at full lock and pinch weld plastic rub. Both very minor. Zero fender rub. Occasional fender liner rub at full stuff, nothing bad enough to worry about.

My statement still stands true, with the lift the AHC provides, you can run 35's just fine, even for DD use. I have 12k miles on mine and a trip to Cruise Moab. Nothing but scuffs on the frame, fender liner and liner over pinch weld.

That's an encouraging report. I may look at larger sizes with my next tire.
 
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Tons of threads here regarding running 35's. The consensus from most is that it can certainly be done but it does take some work. Most prefer 33's (or 34's) for a variety of reasons (weight of tires, power loss, etc)
 

duggy

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Run 35's fully stuffed and turned without contacting any fenders? I find that hard to believe. There are more than a few threads discussing this.

Definitely do-able, even on a static suspension lift. I'm at 2.75" front torsion bar crank and OME 863s in the rear and I don't have any issues. The front does rub with stock wheels but I ran Slee 1.25" spacers and the rubbing is gone
 

92LXAZ

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Just spend more time exploring this forum and you'll see how capable a 100 is. Definitely won't be a bad decision getting one.
 
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Thanks. I better look up dimensions, I didn't think a 100 is that much bigger than my Trooper but maybe it is.
I looked up basic dimensions. LC 100: L 192.5", W 76.4", wheelbase 112.2". Trooper: L 183.5", W 72.4", wheelbase 108.7"
So the 100 is significantly larger. Not necessarily a bad thing, but something to consider. It would be fun to have a V8 though.
 

LandCruiserPhil

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No rub in DD other than inside frame rail at full lock and pinch weld plastic rub. Both very minor. Zero fender rub. Occasional fender liner rub at full stuff, nothing bad enough to worry about.

My statement still stands true, with the lift the AHC provides, you can run 35's just fine, even for DD use. I have 12k miles on mine and a trip to Cruise Moab. Nothing but scuffs on the frame, fender liner and liner over pinch weld.

Not to start another 35 will fit war but I call BS you cannot run 35's without bump stops

Pictures AHC with 295/70-18 turn the tire and do this you have fender DAMAGE!

front stuff.JPG


As discussed many time with AHC you can get full compression. With a lifted 100 running stock or OME t-bars you cannot get full compression making 35's more forgiving to causing damage. With that said there is more then one MUD guy that has experienced fender damage running 35's.

As for 100 capabilities I have run Spike with 100s without issue and most recently ran Hole-In-The Rock Trail with a 100 with only A-TRAC successfully, again without damage.

EDIT - the 100 on HIRT was on 33's



Like with many vehicle capabilities some times it the archer not the arrow.
 
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Not to start another 35 will fit war but I call BS you cannot run 35's without bump stops

Pictures AHC with 295/70-18 turn the tire and do this you have fender DAMAGE!

View attachment 954136

As discussed many time with AHC you can get full compression. With a lifted 100 running stock or OME t-bars you cannot get full compression making 35's more forgiving to causing damage. With that said there is more then one MUD guy that has experienced fender damage running 35's.

As for 100 capabilities I have run Spike with 100s without issue and most recently ran Hole-In-The Rock Trail with a 100 with only A-TRAC successfully, again without damage.

Like with many vehicle capabilities some times it the archer not the arrow.




Call whatever you want.

Have YOU ever run the Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100? If not, your opinion is just that, an opinion. If you have, where's the pics of your fender damage? I'm not saying that others haven't damaged their fenders, but I think it goes back to your Archer not the Arrow comment.


295/70-18's, AHC, no bump stops, no spacers, no damaged fenders.
 
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those 295/70r18 tyres are only 34.3" inch diameter - not 35s. Perhaps the 3/4 of an inch makes the difference
 
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Not to start another 35 will fit war but I call BS you cannot run 35's without bump stops
With a lifted 100 running stock or OME t-bars you cannot get full compression making 35's more forgiving to causing damage.

Also not wanting to contribute to a 35" fit war, but I've put my front control arms onto the bump stops with OME t-bars. I've even got a picture of it around here somewhere...

To the original poster:
Fitting 35" tires is a hot topic here, obviously without consensus. Regardless, you CAN fit everything up to and including 34" tires.
My 100-series (LX) is still relatively new to me, and I've only had out on a few easy trails. I come from many years with its close relative (80-series), and I have no doubt that the 100 is a strong, robust, and reliable Land Cruiser. The IFS changes the offroad performance a bit, but besides that, it's not really that different from my old 80. Big, strong, comfortable, and buildable. V8 and 5-speed is very nice.
 

LandCruiserPhil

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Call whatever you want.

Have YOU ever run the Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100? If not, your opinion is just that, an opinion. If you have, where's the pics of your fender damage? I'm not saying that others haven't damaged their fenders, but I think it goes back to your Archer not the Arrow comment.


295/70-18's, AHC, no bump stops, no spacers, no damaged fenders.


Why yes I have run Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100. Do some research and I think you will find I was the First to run Nitto 295/70-18's on an AHC equipped 100 back on October 27 2009.:)

TJM front.JPG


So how do you explain the picture above? The tire is clearly into the fender and turned it will contact. Could it be you have never reached the limit of compression of your AHC.;) Pictured below is what it looks likes.

Stuff bump stop.JPG
2006 Front flex.JPG
 

paflytyer

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^Is that the hard wheeling video?

FWIW, I had to make some changes to run "almost 35's" correctly. 295/70/18s TG's which are slightly bigger than the 295/70/18 AT Terras shown above.

However, I do not have AHC.
80 series L shock, 1" body lift (steering spacer, lowered radiator 1"), extended links and bump stops extended 1"

Before the body lift, my rubbing issues happened on higher speed compressions and off-camber turns especially steep downhill drop-offs. I still get some frame rail rubbing but the body lift eliminated most of my fender contact.

The problems occur (for me and the folks I know and run with often) when the entire vehicle is flexed and twisted or run and compressed at higher speeds. Not in the straight line wheel lifting that's shown in the above video. In a straight line you can get by without any modifications as shown above. Clearly Cappy is stuffing the rear wheel, but that's not as taxing as the entire vehicle compressing down or up/down hill off camber turns where you'll see most issues.

One issue leads to the next when you start trying to fix the rub issue, but it can be done. Running the L shock leads to lowered bump stops and extended sway bar links. Running the body lift leads to lowering the radiator, extending a brake line and adding .5" steering spacer. (YMMV) Everything leads to something else and every benefit has a consequence. We've even seen differences between two 100's set up almost identically where one will have issues and the other will not.
 

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