How To Tell If Suspension Still Good (and which OME Kit I Have)? (1 Viewer)

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jaymar

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Any quick way to tell which OME suspension height/duty components I have?
What about determining whether suspension is still good?
Lastly--how to determine whether suspension is still good when the shocks are shot?

Came this way from PO, time to get into it...

Thanks!
 
Should be a tag on the springs...
 
Same situation with our '93, no tags left on the springs, spring wire diameter sez it's aftermarket but not conclusive, probably something like 2".

Going 'wheeling revealed a few issues: on hill climbs with ruts that force axle articulation, the tires stuff into the wheel wells so the truck wouldn't want to crawl. Mostly on the rear. Extending the bump stops will probably solve that; perhaps a front spacer for the springs as well. Can't feel that the damping isn't working, so I'll probably keep the shocks. Clanks from the front end under articulation might have to do with the sway bars; I'll try extensions that are sitting on the shelf for 3+ years and see what's what. Based on prior experience with another truck, I'm not going to disconnects. I'm sure as I 'wheel it more, some other stuff comes up. But so far, the trails I've been on give me a good report on what I want to be different...
 
If your tags are gone, it'll be hard to find out for sure. If they're not too crusty, you can measure the wire thickness, and then read post #2 in this thread: OME Lifts discussion for the FAQ

FWIW, mine had a gazillion miles and were very rusty and crusty, but the tags were still present and legible.
 
You could just guess...

Did it have 33’s or 35’s?

Castor correction bushings?

Castor correction plate?

No castor correction?

Front and rear bumpers?

Roof rack?

Drawers?

Any other reason to go with extra heavy springs?

Answer those questions, and most of will be able to tell you what you have without even looking at your cruiser... with maybe a 10% margin of error.
 
Should be a tag on the springs...
Lemme check under the crud, see if anything's left.
You could just guess...

Did it have 33’s or 35’s?

Castor correction bushings?

Castor correction plate?

No castor correction?

Front and rear bumpers?

Roof rack?

Drawers?

Any other reason to go with extra heavy springs?

Answer those questions, and most of will be able to tell you what you have without even looking at your cruiser... with maybe a 10% margin of error.
Well, yeah, if there was any indication that the PO paid attention and looked after things properly. :) Bought the rig with non-winch ARB front bumper, 33 inch tires, drawer system homemade, and a rudimentary roof rack. No corrections. He claimed the OME was stock height, though it looks a little taller to me. Not much, but a little.

Planning to run ARB front bumper with winch, rear double swing out with spare, full length roof rack, good-size fridge, a possibly larger drawer system after removing second row. Sliders, 31 to 33 inch tires. Zero lift to 2.5 inch lift, Prefer to retain stock geometry or close to it. Occasional RTT. DD with 5 to 10% serious off-road/Overland use.

If you would care to guess what the PO should have done, and what I should do going forward, I’d appreciate it…
 
Based on what you told me... he was probably running 2861’s in the front and 2862’s in the rear. Both OME stock height springs.

Based on what you want to do with the cruiser. I would look at going with 2850 Heavys up front and possibly 2864 Extra heavys in the rear. You can consider going with 2863 heavys in the rear, butt with drawers, a RTT and dual swing outs, I’d stick to the extra heavys.

You’ll probably need some 30mm spacers up front to even out the stink bug effect.
 
Any quick way to tell which OME suspension height/duty components I have?

If they are OME stock height, it's easy, the upper coils will be closer together.

What about determining whether suspension is still good?
....

How does it ride/handle?
 
If they are OME stock height, it's easy, the upper coils will be closer together.



How does it ride/handle?
Hard to say, only one I’ve driven and the shocks are gone. Bump-wise, I’m thinking ‘30s farm truck. :)

Components installed Jan 2011, including steering stabilizer. Paperwork just says “customer supplied parts.” Will poke around under truck some more.
 
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Measure it. What is the distance from ground to middle of fenders?
 
Measure it. What is the distance from ground to middle of fenders?

Better to measure from hub center to fender/flare, takes tire size out of the equation.
 
Hard to say, only one I’ve driven and the shocks are gone. Bump-wise, I’m thinking ‘30s farm truck. :)

Components installed Jan 2011, including steering stabilizer. Paperwork just says “customer supplied parts.” Will poke around under truck some more.

If it has OME stock height and you think it rides like a farm truck, likely don't want heavy springs. Best is to hook up with other locals and ride in their rigs.
 
If it has OME stock height and you think it rides like a farm truck, likely don't want heavy springs. Best is to hook up with other locals and ride in their rigs.
Yeah I’m also driving around empty. Will install new shocks, load it up, install rear bumper, see how it feels. Will post photos of the current Springs if I cannot find a label
 
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Okay, turns out I have OME 861s/862s front/rear, will look up the specs on those.
 
Here are 2 threads that might be helpful, they list the before and after installation spring measurements for OME 861 and 862 springs.
 

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