First off a big thank you to the fine members of this forum - thanks a million for all the great info on here. Here is my attempt to pay-it-forward with this mini how to on replacing the fuel sock filter - did you know your FJ80 had one?!... 
I had pulled all my carpeting out as part of the cleaning/baselining the new to me vehicle. This maintenance item was recommended to me as a 'while you're at it'... Follow along as I document and illustrate this simple yet important maintenance procedure. I got all the parts from CruiserDan - thank you, everything was there!
First, you'll be dealing with gasoline and more importantly - gasoline vapors, so make sure you're in a ventilated area and make sure you don't have smokers around - I mean, make SURE. Get a water hose or better yet fire extinguisher ready.
EDIT: it's better to do this when your tank is nearly empty so you can see inside it to put in and take out the assembly.
1) Disconnect the battery so you don't end up with a short and sparks somewhere.
2) Remove the gas cap to release pressure in the system and prevent the gas from flowing out of loose fittings.
3) Remove the rear seats, carpeting (if you haven't already) to get to the access panel in the floor. Start by removing the three retaining screws with the phillips screw driver:
4) THe pic below shows the top bracket of the fuel pump showing all the external connections we'll be removing to get to the filter inside:
5) Start by disconnecting the electrical connector and release and undo the rubber return hose as shown. Use paper towel under there... if you remembered to remove the fuel cap in step 1 there should be very minimum fuel flow. Next, loosen and remove the banjo bolt - there should be two crush washers on each side - you should not be reusing them.
6) Remove 8 phillips screws holding the cover down. Pull all the connectors aside and pry the cover off the top of the tank. Carefully - I mean carefully, pull out the pump assembly ensuring that you don't bend the wires and especially the float indicator for the fuel level gauge.
7) Pick a comfortable place to work and start the disassembly. Remove the rubber retainer as shown:
8) Next, remove the retaining clip that holds the old sock filter in place.
9) Once the retaining ring is off, pry the old filter off (carefully):
10) Time to replace old parts with new: the parts circled below are the new replacement parts:
11) Pushing the new filter back on (and not breaking it) was the most difficult part - this thing was a pain. After you push it on there, secure it with the tiny retaining clip (use a new one)! I used a small socket to get the clip on there good:
12) Continue re-assembly. Place the rubber fitting on there and push the whole thing back into the bracket.
13) Next, pull the old gasket off of the bracket and replace with the brand new gasket as show below:
14) Carefully place the whole unit back in the hole. Use gentle movements to do this as the wires are pretty thin and you don't want to bend it. Put the hose back on, re-connect the electrical plug and the return rubber hose. Carefully reassemble the banjo bolt - use two new crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Tighten to 22 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
15) Put the gas cap back on, cleanup and re-connect the battery.
Start the truck to make sure all is well under there before you button up that access panel. I didn't and it made me wonder... but so far, so good.
Cheers!
I had pulled all my carpeting out as part of the cleaning/baselining the new to me vehicle. This maintenance item was recommended to me as a 'while you're at it'... Follow along as I document and illustrate this simple yet important maintenance procedure. I got all the parts from CruiserDan - thank you, everything was there!
First, you'll be dealing with gasoline and more importantly - gasoline vapors, so make sure you're in a ventilated area and make sure you don't have smokers around - I mean, make SURE. Get a water hose or better yet fire extinguisher ready.
EDIT: it's better to do this when your tank is nearly empty so you can see inside it to put in and take out the assembly.
1) Disconnect the battery so you don't end up with a short and sparks somewhere.
2) Remove the gas cap to release pressure in the system and prevent the gas from flowing out of loose fittings.
3) Remove the rear seats, carpeting (if you haven't already) to get to the access panel in the floor. Start by removing the three retaining screws with the phillips screw driver:
4) THe pic below shows the top bracket of the fuel pump showing all the external connections we'll be removing to get to the filter inside:
5) Start by disconnecting the electrical connector and release and undo the rubber return hose as shown. Use paper towel under there... if you remembered to remove the fuel cap in step 1 there should be very minimum fuel flow. Next, loosen and remove the banjo bolt - there should be two crush washers on each side - you should not be reusing them.
6) Remove 8 phillips screws holding the cover down. Pull all the connectors aside and pry the cover off the top of the tank. Carefully - I mean carefully, pull out the pump assembly ensuring that you don't bend the wires and especially the float indicator for the fuel level gauge.
7) Pick a comfortable place to work and start the disassembly. Remove the rubber retainer as shown:
8) Next, remove the retaining clip that holds the old sock filter in place.
9) Once the retaining ring is off, pry the old filter off (carefully):
10) Time to replace old parts with new: the parts circled below are the new replacement parts:
11) Pushing the new filter back on (and not breaking it) was the most difficult part - this thing was a pain. After you push it on there, secure it with the tiny retaining clip (use a new one)! I used a small socket to get the clip on there good:
12) Continue re-assembly. Place the rubber fitting on there and push the whole thing back into the bracket.
13) Next, pull the old gasket off of the bracket and replace with the brand new gasket as show below:
14) Carefully place the whole unit back in the hole. Use gentle movements to do this as the wires are pretty thin and you don't want to bend it. Put the hose back on, re-connect the electrical plug and the return rubber hose. Carefully reassemble the banjo bolt - use two new crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Tighten to 22 ft-lbs using a torque wrench.
15) Put the gas cap back on, cleanup and re-connect the battery.
Start the truck to make sure all is well under there before you button up that access panel. I didn't and it made me wonder... but so far, so good.
Cheers!
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