Best video I've seen for doing the front drive sharft.
how to replace the u-joints in your 80
- Thread starter semlin
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for all of those shade tree mechanics who use a hammer like the guy in the video to hammer out the u-joints. There is a reason to use a vice or the C-clamp method. Hammering out the bearing caps and hammering them in distorts the yokes making them slightly egg shaped leading to premature bearing failure and sometimes yoke failure. Just a word to the wise.
Sorry, but NO lol
First mistake was using a hammer.
I can understand if you're out on the trail and don't have a vise or press handy, but it wasn't even necessary since he had a vise.
Second mistake was pushing the cup through the yoke.
I can't speak for ours, but many yokes are tapered and can be damaged by pushing the cup through the wrong way.
Having worked in a drive-line shop, I was taught to always press the cup outwards for this very reason.
And I don't think I've ever needed to break out a cutting wheel to replace a U-joint lol
As shown in the video I posted on page 1, when you use the proper tools and technique, it's as easy as it gets
This Tiger Tool U-joint puller is neat. In the video they use a ratchet, using a cordless impact makes it a painless job:
Automotive U-Joint Service Kit - All Tools, Combination Kits - Tiger Tool International Inc.
Automotive U-Joint Service Kit - All Tools, Combination Kits - Tiger Tool International Inc.
wagonteeth
Hippoverde
I use a tie rod puller that is shaped essentially the same as the Tiger tool, and it cost $15. I put a socket under the screw and it presses out the cups effortlessly, and can be done on the tail gate. It slides on the yokes of my 80 drive shafts perfectly.
Ok, so the hammer I'd agree isn't the best way. I like the tie rod puller as well with a socket to press them out. Press them thru then cut them off, took me about 20 minutes to do the front driveshaft. No way in hell I could get the cap pulled out without pressing clear through. These other videos that show the proper way to do u-joints aren't applicable for the 80 series. You can't press a cap out far enough without pressing the top cap into the middle of the yoke.
Sure you can, IF YOU DON'T PRESS ON THE TOP CAP lol
Checkout the 2 minute mark of the video I posted on the first page.
You either press down on the sides of the U-joint or on the surface of the yoke using sockets or dowel tubes that are larger than the cap.
Never press the cap down into the yoke unless you're seating it.
Love the condescension. Use the video I posted only at your own peril, but if you decide to take the dark path I'd recommend the tie rod puller instead of a hammer.
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wagonteeth
Hippoverde
Just my own experience with the tie rod puller, and my 22 yr old driveshafts, but tension never seems to increase using the tierod puller. What I've found is that you need to have some vise grips handy to start trying to pull the cap off when it's mostly exposed. You have to try to avoid pushing the opposing cap into the inside of the yoke because aligning it to push it back out with a socket over the u joint center section is a PITA. The point at which you can pull the expose cap off vs. pushing the opposing cap too far in is a matter of a 1/4 or 1/2 turn of the ratchet.
For me, I wanted to find a system that I could use on the trail, but was easier on the yokes than beating it with a hammer. I replace my rear U about once a year (to this point- I had J springs in the rear an just went to 860, so haven't cooked a U since the spring change).
ETA: I looked at my puller yesterday and it's actually sold from Advance Auto as a tie rod/pitman arm puller. It's wider than the straight up tie rod puller.
For me, I wanted to find a system that I could use on the trail, but was easier on the yokes than beating it with a hammer. I replace my rear U about once a year (to this point- I had J springs in the rear an just went to 860, so haven't cooked a U since the spring change).
ETA: I looked at my puller yesterday and it's actually sold from Advance Auto as a tie rod/pitman arm puller. It's wider than the straight up tie rod puller.
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I'll start by saying the po of my 80 hadn't replaced the u-joints and they lasted 370k miles! Unfortunately they were also very much rusted in. In addition to my .02 I found a great trick for getting the races out.
I like to use my ball joint remover from harbor freight $45. This thing has rebuilt about 40 Dana front axles and done countless driveline and axle shaft u-joints.
It's a little tricky to keep the tool lined up so the cup goes through the opening of the tool due to the angle of the driveline ear. I crank it until the cup hits the edge of the tool opening. Then with enough pressure on the tool to hold it in place, I tap the tool with a rubber hammer to center the cup in the tool opening. I then push the u-joint as far as it will go in one direction. The factory cup or race has an internal seal so the cup is longer than most u-joints which makes everything bind before the cup can be pushed all the way out. The zerk on factory Toyota joints will also hit before the cup comes out.
A vice or shop press can be used but I find my ball joint press less likely to cause damage because I get more feedback from it if something binds. I worry heat from grinding or using a cutting torch to cut the spider could damage the heat treating of the driveline or cause warpage.
Now the trick I found that makes things so easy. With the cup hanging 70% out of the driveline ear I clamp it in my vise till it cries. My vise jaws are knurled not sure this will work with smooth jaws. I first turn the driveline twisting the cap inside the driveline slightly to loosen it. I then use a rubber hammer to tap the driveline until the race comes the rest of the way out. It worked like a charm on my seized up joint caps.
The one positive of the u-joint cup stopping before it comes all the way out, is the second cup left is still seated 20% or so. The remaining cup will usually press back the opposite way without binding or causing damage. For this step I use a hammer and socket or punch. I find trying to press the cup backwards out of the driveline almost always causes it to turn and begin cutting into the race it seats in.
Grab the second race with the vise remove and the spider will come right out without removing the zerk.
I didn't get many pictures due to the greasy nature of the job.
I like to use my ball joint remover from harbor freight $45. This thing has rebuilt about 40 Dana front axles and done countless driveline and axle shaft u-joints.
It's a little tricky to keep the tool lined up so the cup goes through the opening of the tool due to the angle of the driveline ear. I crank it until the cup hits the edge of the tool opening. Then with enough pressure on the tool to hold it in place, I tap the tool with a rubber hammer to center the cup in the tool opening. I then push the u-joint as far as it will go in one direction. The factory cup or race has an internal seal so the cup is longer than most u-joints which makes everything bind before the cup can be pushed all the way out. The zerk on factory Toyota joints will also hit before the cup comes out.
A vice or shop press can be used but I find my ball joint press less likely to cause damage because I get more feedback from it if something binds. I worry heat from grinding or using a cutting torch to cut the spider could damage the heat treating of the driveline or cause warpage.
Now the trick I found that makes things so easy. With the cup hanging 70% out of the driveline ear I clamp it in my vise till it cries. My vise jaws are knurled not sure this will work with smooth jaws. I first turn the driveline twisting the cap inside the driveline slightly to loosen it. I then use a rubber hammer to tap the driveline until the race comes the rest of the way out. It worked like a charm on my seized up joint caps.
The one positive of the u-joint cup stopping before it comes all the way out, is the second cup left is still seated 20% or so. The remaining cup will usually press back the opposite way without binding or causing damage. For this step I use a hammer and socket or punch. I find trying to press the cup backwards out of the driveline almost always causes it to turn and begin cutting into the race it seats in.
Grab the second race with the vise remove and the spider will come right out without removing the zerk.
I didn't get many pictures due to the greasy nature of the job.
When I pressed the flange side u-joint I used care not to press it as far as it would go so as to keep the remaining cap in it's seat.
I then hit the spider with a rubber hammer to push the remaining cap back in and finished with the press.
I then hit the spider with a rubber hammer to push the remaining cap back in and finished with the press.
Annoyed my wife into being a photographer. Please excuse the mess I have 7 projects going at the same time.
I used Moog Super strength joints for cost mostly as I'm having a D.C. Front driveline made soon. They look strong in the center section however I've never seen a joint break in the center of the spider. Which leads me to believe the factory joint may be stronger with the large collar where the seal rides. However the Moog has a smaller grease hole which provides more material and the Moog needles appear to be longer. I'll let you guys know if I break one.
Moog next to factory.
lumbee1
Native American
Are Moog u-joints recommended over Toyota? I've got some nasty vibrations followed by squeaking/whining when in reverse. Greasing the u-joints a two months ago helped but it is pretty obvious they need to be replaced.
Do the MOOG's have grease fittings?
lumbee1
Native American
There are two types of Moog U-joints: greasable and non-greasable. The non-greasable are classified as heavy duty since they don't have grease channels to reduce the strength of the U-joint.
IMHO/IME nothing will last longer than the OEM U-joints assuming you grease them regularly (and haven't replaced the engine with something that puts out monster HP). Still running the original rear U-joints in my FZJ80, now at 353,000 miles. FWIW.
