How to repair the windshield washer fluid diverter valve

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Feb 27, 2016
Helena Montana
I found this pdf on the web somewhere. I don't remember where. I forgot I had it until I went to make room on my phone. So here it is. Make sure to read the PDF I attached.

You will need the first 2 things possibly the rest as well
1- Something to replace the rubber that has been damaged. I first tried a tube repair kit but ended up using a pice of a actual tube.
2- Glue. I tried to use what came in the tube repair kit but ended up using "gorilla glue" super glue.
3- A new oring- I'm sorry but i didn't measure the one i used-
3- Rubbing Alcohol
4- JB weld
5- RTV- I like Permatex Ultra Black
6- Razor blade
7- Small file

The valve is very simple. It has a metal disk covered in rubber to seal against the ends of the valve body. The rear outlet end has a white plastic disk. The valve is controlled with a spring ( and Im assuming the pressure from the pump ) to seal the white disk one way and and electric magnet to pull the disk and spring closed the other way. The two halves are sealed together with an oring. The two halves are held in place by folding the end of the valve case over. You'll see what I mean when you look over your valve

I took mine apart and it was rusted and corroded. Cleaned the rust and crap off the disk that serves as the valve. I used an electric engraver to etch to surface and then filled the missing part of the disk with some JB weld. Used the razor blade to keep the JB weld flat. Cleaned the surface of the metal disk with alcohol and glued a tube patch on. It didn't stick very long. Switched from the glue in the patch kit to gorilla glue and then it stuck. Glued another patch to the other side. Checked the fit in the valve body and the two halves wouldn't seal together, my patches were to thick. So I went and dug around until I found bicycle tube and cut a piece of rubber to fit. Only glued to one side. I left the one side bare metal and used the white plastic disk with holes in it to seal the other side. Then I turned to the main valve body. The plastic sealing surface had been damaged from the corroding metal disk. I pick away all the loose pieces and cleaned with alcohol, then applied the RTV so fill in the missing pieces. Let everything dry for a few hours and test fit all the pieces- i had to trim some RTV off the end of the valve body and out of the hole where the spring sits.

Now that I had all the pieces repaired and test fitted i checked the operation. For this part I made some jumper wires and attached them to my boost pack. I blew through the side port and touched the wires to the booster pack and it worked. So I then carefully bent the end of the case back over the end of the valve body and reinstalled in the Cruiser. then i checked the operation. It worked! for about 2 seconds and then blew out past the end of the case I so carefully bent back into place. So then I removed the valve and found all the pieces. Went back to the old cutting board I was using for a tool bench and super glued the whole end. Reinstalled the valve and it hasn't leaked yet. But its only been 2 weeks.

I hope this helps those who were interested.
Clear as mud right? Fire away with questions and I'll do my best to answer them.







  • Twin Window Washer Module Repair - 80 series.pdf
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one last picture

Is this part no longer available? BTW, thanks for following through on this.
Is this part no longer available? BTW, thanks for following through on this.
i don't know if available or not. i just thought i would give it a try.

also the picture i took of the disk with the rubber on it was a tube patch- and it was too thick
It is available part 85321-60050 cost 40$
Lol well that's great news. I probably should have checked that before I started this project.
Thanks Curtis, it's definitely worth a try if I can save $40, using stuff I already have at home. I'd rather spend that money on beer!

Toss the valve and re-plumb the line to wash only the front. That's where it counts the most.
Mine came plumbed that way
It’s so cheap and a 5 min install. Wash both windows.
It’s so cheap and a 5 min install. Wash both windows.
You're right! It is cheap, l must admit that I didn't even look to see if it was still available.
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Here's a thread by another Mud member, he came up with a aftermarket valve that's way better then our factory valve. Check out his link, Once you replace your factory valve with the aftermarket one, you'll never have to mess with this valve again. Plus the cost for the aftermarket valve is only a little more then a factory new valve.
Replacement for Rear Wiper Diverter Valve
Link for the valve.
Texas Industrial Remcor 3-Way 12 Volt DC Solenoid Valve, 1/4" NPT::Weather Pak - Dultmeier Sales

OEM worked for 20 years without a problem cheaper then the aftermarket 5 min to replace Ill go for the OEM
In this case I don't subscribe to the OEM being the better choice. What makes you think your diverter valve lasted 20 years? Didn't you purchase your 94 just a few months ago? The previous owner may have already replaced it. In my case the valve failed 19 years ago. Never replaced it, just bypassed it as I never used the rear washer or wiper but it leaked on the rear window every time I would use the front washer. With it bypassed the front washer has much better pressure.
Desert Dino said:
OEM worked for 20 years without a problem cheaper then the aftermarket 5 min to replace Ill go for the OEM

My OEM replacement (from CDAN or Beno, I can't recall which) lasted less than 5 years. Having said that, I just ordered another one from partsouq on ebay yesterday for $37.47 including fedex shipping from UAE. Tracking says it should be here this Friday. :meh:
The OEM diverter valve is a piece of junk (design). It is guaranteed to internally corrode and the rubber 'flap' decompose and fail. Perfectly fine though, for the car owner that keeps a vehicle 3 - 5 years max....

I'm guessing the quality of the fluid/water that is used in the washer system has some impact on the life of the valve.

The linked 'retrofit' at least appears to be of industrial quality.

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Is this really a question? $40 for oem but ‘it may only last 5 years’????

Oh my so you are saying that it will cost me $8 per year to keep this part oem? Jesus I dont know...

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