How to remove and clean the Throttle Body on a 3Fe??? (1 Viewer)

[TN_LandCruiser]

I have searched the forum and faq's and have not found a thread on this...

I see alot of people talking about removing the TB to clean it and how big of a difference it makes, etc.

My question is, has anyone documented the removal process? Just looking under the hood, with all the lines running to and fro, seems like a rather daunting task...

Anyone have input on this?

Thanks!

 

[alkaline747trio]

Take off the entire intake manifold, the entire thing is nasty and cleaning the entire thing with some carb/FI cleaner will at least make you feel 100x better.

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

Take off the entire intake manifold, the entire thing is nasty and cleaning the entire thing with some carb/FI cleaner will at least make you feel 100x better.

Well yeah!!!

I know cleaning it will be a good thing...but HOW? Do you have specific instructions on how to do it? How many job is it?

 

[sseaman]

the most simple way would be to pull the air intake hose, and spray in with cleaner, and use a long screwdriver and rag, this wont get all of it but its better than nothing

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

I have done that...well, not the screwdriver and rag, my luck, I will lose the rag!!! I have used two cans of carb cleaner spraying it in and everything I can see, but there is still a LOT of visual carbon...that is why I want to physically remove it and clean it out the right way.

I first noticed the carbon problem when I was trouble shooting my cold start problem...I pulled the cold start injector and it was literally plugged by carbon build up. They are big $$$, so I did my best to clean it...sure enough, just cleaning the crap off allowed it to start working and my rough cold start issue went away...

So, back to my initial question...does anyone have details (possibly illustrated) directions on how to physically remove the TB?

 

[alkaline747trio]

Best way to tell you how to do it is to tell you to order the FSM. It's all pretty easy, just start disconnecting stuff and doing whatever you need to remember how it went back. There are a few electrical connections, a pair of fuel line connections, vac lines, the intake tube, and about 10-14x 12/14mm bolts.

 

[bhmmapping]

I don't have any visual directions, but it was pretty easy - I would say one banana or less. I took the entire air cleaner out first to get it out of the way and check for cracks etc. Then you just disconnect the accelerator and throttle cables, the TPS connector, the coolant hoses(the FSM says to drain the coolant but I just plugged them up with a paper towel since very little coolant drips out) and the vacuum hoses. Then it is just three bolts and a nut to get it off.

I would go ahead and order a new gasket before you take it off. Also be careful with the TPS and don't loosen the screws since that will change the adjustment. FSM says 9 ft-lbf for the bolts on reassembly.

Cleaning mine made a huge difference in how smoothly the truck idled. The vacuum ports on top were completely clogged. Mine was sparkling clean on the outside of the plate, like someone had cleaned it on the truck, but the backside had around an 1/8 of an inch of gunk on it.

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

I don't have any visual directions, but it was pretty easy - I would say one banana or less. I took the entire air cleaner out first to get it out of the way and check for cracks etc. Then you just disconnect the accelerator and throttle cables, the TPS connector, the coolant hoses(the FSM says to drain the coolant but I just plugged them up with a paper towel since very little coolant drips out) and the vacuum hoses. Then it is just three bolts and a nut to get it off.

I would go ahead and order a new gasket before you take it off. Also be careful with the TPS and don't loosen the screws since that will change the adjustment. FSM says 9 ft-lbf for the bolts on reassembly.

Cleaning mine made a huge difference in how smoothly the truck idled. The vacuum ports on top were completely clogged. Mine was sparkling clean on the outside of the plate, like someone had cleaned it on the truck, but the backside had around an 1/8 of an inch of gunk on it.

BHM...can you give me an estimate of how long it took you to remove it?

Since this seems to be an area no one has documented, when I get around to it, i will post pics and details about it...maybe end up being a faq link.

If anyone else has input, instructions, pics, etc...please post up!

 

[bhmmapping]

I don't remember how long it took the first time(longer than it should have), a couple of hours at least start to finish. Cleaning it was the hardest part, it was nasty and caked on. last time I took it off to adjust the valves it was not long at all - short enough that the engine was still hot for adjustment after I got it and the valve cover off.

BTW - "BHM" is generally reserved for another mud member who goes by Atticus now

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

BTW - "BHM" is generally reserved for another mud member who goes by Atticus now

:whoops:...sorry...

 

[Fiveo]

Hey TN I'm way intrested in this post too. I'm in the process of baselinng my 92 and this is something I want to do.

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

...Cleaning it was the hardest part, it was nasty and caked on.

Im thinking small brass wire wheel on my drill...and for the tight spots a small brass bristle brush...along with carb cleaner for the vacuum holes, etc.

Anyone see anything wrong with that idea?

 

[bhmmapping]

I used carb cleaner and a rag, ended up laying the TB face down and letting the carb cleaner pool up in the back to soak. Wire wheel might be a little harsh? I have read to be careful with the carb cleaner around the TPS, I didn't get any on the TPS but did make the mistake of loosening the screws and had to recalibrate it.

 

[overhanger]

Small brass brush, some B&G Throttle Body Spray Cleaner, a towel and have at it. The B&G, like all things B&G, is pricey but is amazing in how it cuts through carbon buildup. No, make that REALLY AMAZING. Shortens job time noticebly.

 

[TN_LandCruiser]

Where can I find B&G???

 

[overhanger]

"Real" parts stores like NAPA and sometimes Carquest but just call around and find where other B&G products like 44K are sold. Stevinson Toyota parts department here in Denver sells B&G stuff because the Rising Sun Club has asked for it enough to make it worth stocking. That way, we get the club 20% discount off of the purchase price. Cool!

 

[gray]

Ditto on NAPA carrying BG products; usually if you are nice and BS with the counter guys a bit, they will give you a good discount. Another carb cleaner I have found that is stronger (and only $3) than most is the Berryman's brand from any parts store. It still has some MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) in it, which is an excellent degreaser. Spraying a few cans of that into the various ports on the throttle body and intake may buy you some time.

 

[FJ80 Money Pit]

I removed my throttle body and borrowed my wifes sewing needle to open up the two small Vacuum ports on the top of the inside part of the throttle body, because they were caked up with carbon. After i poked two small holes with her needle i sprayed mass airflow sensor cleaner from the two vacuum lines and blew out all the old crusty carbon build up. This allowed me to pass smog. before I did this I was a gross polluter and after I did it i was cleaner than the average FJ80, if the egr modulator isn't receiving any vacuum then chase it back to the throttle body.