Yes, it will come out of the drive shaft side. Are you doing the front or rear?
Don't forget the rear has c-clips. It may be very hard to get it to come apart, but when it does be prepared for the weight.
I just did mine and it wasn't that hard. If you just read the manual you'll maybe have a tuff time making sense of it but if you use it as an instruction book while you do the job then things are less confusing. Woodys article is rather easy to follow. I have spares on the shelf so it was easy to take my time and go extra slow and careful. After welding one up on the bench and spending a lot of time cleaning it up I don't even want to think about how hard it would be to get it clean while still in the housing. I also wouldn't want to see what your ring & pinion would look like with all the spatter.
will 7018 do the trick for welding?
i also have some 6013 but i know that the 7018 makes a stronger weld. i don't know how good penetration will be.
i've been fooling around trying to get used to this rod and been running it hot (145 or 160 amps).
Weld it while in the rig. The only suggestion I have to add is get some splatter paste and smear it on liberally anyplace you don't want the splatter to cause a problem. Especially on the center pin. It's a pain to get it out later if you dont.
Weld the small gears to the side gears, and liberally weld all the gears to the carrier where you can. Get it hot!
This renders the third member/carrier unrepairable. Just make sure you can get the center pin, and block back out in the event you need to remove/replace and axle.
7018 works well. IMHO Do not weld to carrier. I welded one to the carrier and it not only warped the carrier enough to throw it out of true, it is already cracking. I also did one Woodys way by not welding carrier. I welded the eight contacting points were the spiders and side gears meet. It is smoother, quieter, and not cracking. Thanks Woody!