But the one for $12k is going to need $5k. So in the end they are all actually $17k - so might as well just buy the color you like. No, seriously if you do your own work you're probably going to be fine, and if you don't do your own work you're probably going to be screwed, even without rust.
How to negotiate price on 100 series with a lot of deferred maintenance? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RoosterChaser
- Start date
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But the one for $12k is going to need $5k. So in the end they are all actually $17k - so might as well just buy the color you like. No, seriously if you do your own work you're probably going to be fine, and if you don't do your own work you're probably going to be screwed, even without rust.
That was one of my earlier points. The baselining is for the satisfaction of the new owner who frequents this forum.
A typical seller/dealership will laugh at you when you try dropping that baselining expense bomb on them. It’s just not going to happen like you think it is. Baselining expenses (Including replacement of suspension parts) will be your expenses alone. That said and sounding like you won’t be doing the work yourself. Assume 3-5k for all that and look for a cruiser on private market that is 6k....accept that it will likely be higher miles and/or may need some tic(carpet cleaning, seat repair, etc)
A typical seller/dealership will laugh at you when you try dropping that baselining expense bomb on them. It’s just not going to happen like you think it is. Baselining expenses (Including replacement of suspension parts) will be your expenses alone. That said and sounding like you won’t be doing the work yourself. Assume 3-5k for all that and look for a cruiser on private market that is 6k....accept that it will likely be higher miles and/or may need some tic(carpet cleaning, seat repair, etc)
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
@RoosterChaser this is a great price for the work and upgrades done to that truck. Don't know your budget but if you can swing clsoe to this grab a plane ticket and head south.On the other hand:
2004 Lexus LX470 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale
2004 Lx470 239420 mi this will go up as this is my daily driver. Great condition given the age. I...phoenix.craigslist.org
edit: FWIW I paid well below $10k for a truck in similar condition- granted I have the LC so no AHC, and im on the east coast so there is rust. But my maintenance list is about the same as yours- radiator is browning, hoses are old, leather is thrashed, ac busted, steering rack or pump are whining fierce, etc.
But if you take it one bite at a time it helps to spread the cost out.
That truck in phx is sick!
- Thread starter
- #25
I agree that it is a great deal for everything on it!
These 'good deal?' threads often fail to define the end goal well enough.
A sample questionnaire: (my Answers)
LX, LC or either? LX
Year(s)? 04-05
Milage? <150K
Rust: Not important, some is OK or minimal/none? none
Mechanically functional, no deferred maintenance, full baselined or modded? Full baseline
Rough, functional, nice/used, mint or upgraded interior? mint/nice
All DIY fixes, easy DIY only, take to to my guy, or turnkey? All DIY
Willing to travel? Yes
Must have items? Tan interior
Budget? $20k
Budget includes purchase only, purchase & mechanical fix, back to stock or all in w/mods? All in (no mods)
What do you want to do with it (soccer mom, milage queen, hardcore, over-landing)? Family vehicle, road trips, desert fire trails, light camping, dogs
What else? No black exterior.
Baseline also means different things to different people:
DIY parts costs for ALL fluids, ALL filters, plugs, timing belt/wp/tensioner/idler/fan pulley, serpentine belt/idler/pulley, front diff bushings, sway bar end links/bushings, front bearings, UBJ/LBJ, heater tees, and brakes was <$2k.
Tires and AHC globes added another $2k.
Is that good enough or are you going to start preventatively doing things like brake booster, steering rack, TREs, starter, alternator, radiator, fan clutch, etc?
Cosmetics - sky is the limit/you do you. IMO, research things like window regulators/door lock actuators/antenna/leather costs before you buy.
My math suggested that paying more for a nicer example was a better deal for me than chasing the lowest purchase cost. YMMV.
A sample questionnaire: (my Answers)
LX, LC or either? LX
Year(s)? 04-05
Milage? <150K
Rust: Not important, some is OK or minimal/none? none
Mechanically functional, no deferred maintenance, full baselined or modded? Full baseline
Rough, functional, nice/used, mint or upgraded interior? mint/nice
All DIY fixes, easy DIY only, take to to my guy, or turnkey? All DIY
Willing to travel? Yes
Must have items? Tan interior
Budget? $20k
Budget includes purchase only, purchase & mechanical fix, back to stock or all in w/mods? All in (no mods)
What do you want to do with it (soccer mom, milage queen, hardcore, over-landing)? Family vehicle, road trips, desert fire trails, light camping, dogs
What else? No black exterior.
Baseline also means different things to different people:
DIY parts costs for ALL fluids, ALL filters, plugs, timing belt/wp/tensioner/idler/fan pulley, serpentine belt/idler/pulley, front diff bushings, sway bar end links/bushings, front bearings, UBJ/LBJ, heater tees, and brakes was <$2k.
Tires and AHC globes added another $2k.
Is that good enough or are you going to start preventatively doing things like brake booster, steering rack, TREs, starter, alternator, radiator, fan clutch, etc?
Cosmetics - sky is the limit/you do you. IMO, research things like window regulators/door lock actuators/antenna/leather costs before you buy.
My math suggested that paying more for a nicer example was a better deal for me than chasing the lowest purchase cost. YMMV.
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IMO it is not a great price. At that mileage, it will need any or all of these any time soon:
- brake booster
- power steering rack & pinion
- power steering pump
- starter
- alternator
- radiator
- fuel pump
- ac compressor
- ball joints/control arms
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
If you were to ask teh seller and he confirms none of this is has been done, then yes that is a bit steep.
Second mortgage territory you cuold pick up a clean 200 series . . . .
He said everything he did to the vehicle is listed in the ad.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Missed that. So assuming everyone of those wear items are indeed in need of immediate replacement, then yes too much.
dude you’re way off base. these aren’t baseline items these are replace as they fail items. It’s not the sellers burden that the buyer has chosen to buy a vehicle that has over 100k miles on It. If you want a vehicle with all new parts as listed go buy a new truck...anything close in capability will be 40k plus. Having pricing conversations on this forum is pointless because Of members who think previous cruiser owners were born yesterday And need to sell at buyer’s requirements. Doesn’t work that way
The 04 in Phx looks like a nice, well-maintained truck to me. I have no affiliation, and you can make your own determination on value.
I will say that if I were the seller and a potential buyer asked me to discount for or replace a fully working ______ (brake booster, power steering pump, starter, alternator, radiator, etc) I would politely decline and move on to a more serious buyer.
If a PPI showed that component to be faulty and in NEED of replacement, then that is a different story.
I will say that if I were the seller and a potential buyer asked me to discount for or replace a fully working ______ (brake booster, power steering pump, starter, alternator, radiator, etc) I would politely decline and move on to a more serious buyer.
If a PPI showed that component to be faulty and in NEED of replacement, then that is a different story.
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I didn't say they are baseline items. Did you not see "At that mileage, it will need any or all of these any time soon"?
hoser
SILVER Star
I don't really recommend a 20 year old vehicle unless you are a DIY'er or a collector with some coin. The above figures in red are just ballpark if you paid somebody to do the work. It adds up to $8900. If this is the reasoning, I'd recommend just buying something that is 10 years (or $8900) newer and dumping it after 10 years.
that’s like asking for a 5k+ maintenance credit. Dealership or private seller Alike, anyone that would ask me for that wouldn’t even get an answer. I’ve sold two third gen 4runner’s and A 2nd gEn sequoia to Toyota heads and None of them Asked anything remotely similar to that type of ask
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Back to the OP - if you aren't willing to pay $10k, then don't spend any more time on this rig.
Why dont you look at mine, just did timing belt, baselined fluids, and is listed in the for sale section. It is also a garage queen
- Thread starter
- #39
Agreed about the discount for things that are "due to be changed" vs "currently failing". Most of the things on the PPI were currently failing though. The truck still drove with leaking coolant system and bits of plastic and rubber falling off the suspension... I would consider that failing and feel like even a dealer should negotiate on those things. Maybe I'm wrong on that though. Obviously not going to negotiate on the cosmetics on a 20 year old truck. The overall consensus here is that there is too much deferred maintenance at this price to pursue it; even if the dealer were to drop to a more reasonable $7500. There are better opportunities for better maintained cruisers out there.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
@RoosterChaser chance to see GA and meet a fellow 'mudder
