How to negotiate price on 100 series with a lot of deferred maintenance? (1 Viewer)

[RoosterChaser]

Working on finishing a deal on a 2001 LX470. Advertised price of $10,500 is a bit higher than KBB, which seems to be normal for an LX. But, after a PPI, there is at least $6000 of essential deferred maintenance (UCA and all bushings front and rear, rack and pinion, radiator, coolant lines, and other plastics/rubber are shot. Timing belt and water pump are due soon too). There's also at least $3000 of optional, more cosmetic maintenance (new seat covers, windshield, speakers and radio issues, door handles, wipers that don't work, and windows that don't roll down).

I would normally run from this, but the bones of this machine are good. Garage queen, Arizona truck with very little rust. Even the back hatch is good. CDL locks immediately. Shifts in and out of low range without issue. AHC has zero issues. Accumulators were replace 2 years ago. Starts on crank three and shifts great.

So what do you think would be a good purchase price? I'm obviously not going to spend a total $22k for the truck and sorting out all issues. I also know I won't get the truck for $3000. He won't go lower than $10,000. What do you guys think would be a good purchase price? It has been on the lot for 8 months, so I don't think he's willing to do much negotiating.

 

[hickuptruck]

Pretty much every truck that age needs that kind of baseline. 90% of them. If it's too much work/you aren't comfortable doing the work/dropping $6k to baseline it, move on with your search.

Just be happy you found a garage queen with good bones.

Just shoot $7500 as an offer. If no, move on.

 

[desmocruiser]

How many miles does it have or what sort of use has it seen to need UCA’s, rack and pinion, all bushings in the suspension, and a leaky radiator?

 

[Roosevelt T]

I don't understand why the 'vehicle tech' subforum for our beloved 100 series has turned into a place to inquire on how to negotiate the price of a vehicle... And, let's be honest, 95% of the time the question is really "What's the rock bottom you would pay for this, please tell me so I feel better haggling".

This isn't called the "rock bottom price for a 100 series" subforum. It's a subforum for technical advice on our platform.

It's almost every single day, and I don't get it.


The seller won't go less than 10k. Research the price of the maintenance, in the thousands of threads on here for such topics. There's your answer.

 

[saucebox]

Way too many issues for 10K. Everyone's different, but I'd have a hard time paying even 8K for a truck where the wipers don't even work.

Suspension bushings just age, so that seems normal. Loads of money to be saved if you do the work yourself, but it sounds like this particular truck will kind of suck if you have to pay out for every little (and big) service.

 

[RoosterChaser]

How many miles does it have or what sort of use has it seen to need UCA’s, rack and pinion, all bushings in the suspension, and a leaky radiator?

170k miles. I don't think it has seen hard use. Seems bushings in the suspension/steering go bad over 20 years on most of these. Leaky radiator and coolant lines are also pretty standard.

 

[RoosterChaser]

I don't understand why the 'vehicle tech' subforum for our beloved 100 series has turned into a place to inquire on how to negotiate the price of a vehicle... And, let's be honest, 95% of the time the question is really "What's the rock bottom you would pay for this, please tell me so I feel better haggling".

This isn't called the "rock bottom price for a 100 series" subforum. It's a subforum for technical advice on our platform.

It's almost every single day, and I don't get it.


The seller won't go less than 10k. Research the price of the maintenance, in the thousands of threads on here for such topics. There's your answer.

Do you have a better place to ask a question like this?

 

[Pucker5]

all Landcruiser’s have a market premium And all Landcruiser’s require a baseline for the next 200k miles. That “baseline” That guys on here speak of is quite far from the minimum or mandatory requirement for the Vehicle to be driveable and be able to sell on the lot. If you know it’s got good bones the dealer likely knows that too. Offer your best price and move in if they say no. Probably best take that strategy to the private market.

 

[BullElk]

If you are looking at an LX with a price of $10,500 and then throwing out numbers like $6k for essentials then either you're looking at a $3000 LX or you are personally high maintenance if you would spend $6k on what you think is essential. I understand you can use numbers to play the negotiating game any way you choose. I negotiate deals for a living and know the game. But, if you really are trying to win a deal in this used LX/LC game, you have to get realistic on "baselining". Baselining is usually overrated depending on the deal. If I thought "baselining" was so imperative that I felt I needed to change every drop of fluid and replace every bearing and bushing in the vehicle before driving it, there are more issues there to keep me from buying it in the first place. I have bought three excellent LC/LXs, each for less than your inflated baselining costs.

 

[DDabs]

the ol' won't go lower than 10 blues...

 

[MJK]

Sounds like $10k is the take or or leave it price, so your call really no?

Are you saying the windows, doors, wipers and a stereo don't work - or merely that you would want to change something about them. Why someone would fix the AHC and leave all that is beyond me, but I am not sure with all that broken it qualifies as a garage queen.

If the $6k from the PPI shop is only for the non-cosmetic items you mentioned, then it sounds like either this thing has not been maintained or the PPI shop is looking for work. My bet is on the latter, but if everything on that list *really* is shot to the point of neglect then run. If the shop is merely saying 'best practice is to do all this' then bet you could DIY all the items on that list for $1-2K.

On the other hand:

2002 Toyota Landcruiser - 1 Prev. Owner - cars & trucks - by owner -...

2002 Toyota Landcruiser -- One previous owner, 217K miles, fully loaded with power options and...

phoenix.craigslist.org

2004 Lexus LX470 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

2004 Lx470 239420 mi this will go up as this is my daily driver. Great condition given the age. I...

phoenix.craigslist.org

 

[RoosterChaser]

If you are looking at an LX with a price of $10,500 and then throwing out numbers like $6k for essentials then either you're looking at a $3000 LX or you are personally high maintenance if you would spend $6k on what you think is essential. I understand you can use numbers to play the negotiating game any way you choose. I negotiate deals for a living and know the game. But, if you really are trying to win a deal in this used LX/LC game, you have to get realistic on "baselining". Baselining is usually overrated depending on the deal. If I thought "baselining" was so imperative that I felt I needed to change every drop of fluid and replace every bearing and bushing in the vehicle before driving it, there are more issues there to keep me from buying it in the first place. I have bought three excellent LC/LXs, each for less than your inflated baselining costs.

Thanks for the reply. My math is telling me this is a $3000 LX but I know it’s worth more than that. When I say garage queen, I meant it has almost no rust. It certainly has deferred maintenance though. But you’re right, after looking into more prices online, I believe I could cut the $6000 down to $3000 and be to a point where I’d feel safe driving it. With the bushings and ball joints visibly damaged, and visible coolant leaks, I’m just going to assume the suspension and coolant system needs a good refresh. I also am a new dad so I’m being overly picky about reliability. But I probably shouldn’t be looking at a 20 year old truck if I’m that concerned about it!

 

[RoosterChaser]

Sounds like $10k is the take or or leave it price, so your call really no?

Are you saying the windows, doors, wipers and a stereo don't work - or merely that you would want to change something about them. Why someone would fix the AHC and leave all that is beyond me, but I am not sure with all that broken it qualifies as a garage queen.

If the $6k from the PPI shop is only for the non-cosmetic items you mentioned, then it sounds like either this thing has not been maintained or the PPI shop is looking for work. My bet is on the latter, but if everything on that list *really* is shot to the point of neglect then run. If the shop is merely saying 'best practice is to do all this' then bet you could DIY all the items on that list for $1-2K.

On the other hand:

2002 Toyota Landcruiser - 1 Prev. Owner - cars & trucks - by owner -...

2002 Toyota Landcruiser -- One previous owner, 217K miles, fully loaded with power options and...

phoenix.craigslist.org

2004 Lexus LX470 - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

2004 Lx470 239420 mi this will go up as this is my daily driver. Great condition given the age. I...

phoenix.craigslist.org

One rear window doesn’t roll up. Door handle on other side doesn’t work. Two speakers are shot. So you are right, definitely not a true garage queen. Just very little rust. The AHC works fine, but I would absolutely replace it when it eventually fails.

The $6000 could probably be cut down to $3000 by searching for better prices and doing everything myself. But you’re right again, it has a lot of deferred maintenance. I didn’t need the PPI to tell me the UCA ball joints and pretty much every bushing is shot. Or the fresh coolant on the front plastic skid.

Maybe I’m just too in love with the no rust and need to let it go because of so much neglect??

 

[Ayune]

“Kept in the garage but ignored” sounds like a more accurate description. For a new dad I’d pass for (almost) any price.

 

[FxFormat]

Find one that's been baselined and taken care of and pay a little more. If he's not budging the price and you want to pay insultingly low price then this deal is waste of time, move on. Check the for sale forum, buy from mud members that has taken care of their trucks.

 

[BullElk]

Doesn't sound like a deal I would pursue. Only my opinion based on this thread.

 

[midniteRNR]

If I were a new dad, I don't know that I would spend $10k (or $8k or $1k) on a broken vehicle, whether it's 4 yrs old or 40 yrs old. This thing is likely going to be someone's nightmare eventually; don't let it be yours. It's probably already the dealer's nightmare.

Something to consider: at a $7500 offer, if you spend all $6k on deferred maintenance and the $3k on cosmetics (not sure I'd call non-functional wipers cosmetic), you'd be almost $17k into a 2001 LX. For $17k, you could buy a very nice, later model LC/LX from the South or the West, even considering a plane ticket. If you half those costs by shopping around or DIY, that's still $12k. There are a lot of nice $12k LC/LX available to buy. There are a lot of nice $10k LC/LX available to buy, for that matter, if you paid what the dealer wants.


Run, don't walk.

 

[Pucker5]

Thanks for the reply. My math is telling me this is a $3000 LX but I know it’s worth more than that. When I say garage queen, I meant it has almost no rust. It certainly has deferred maintenance though. But you’re right, after looking into more prices online, I believe I could cut the $6000 down to $3000 and be to a point where I’d feel safe driving it. With the bushings and ball joints visibly damaged, and visible coolant leaks, I’m just going to assume the suspension and coolant system needs a good refresh. I also am a new dad so I’m being overly picky about reliability. But I probably shouldn’t be looking at a 20 year old truck if I’m that concerned about it!

When you said new dad it’s a no. Here’s why...assuming you And your wife/gf/baby momma are still together your Landcruiser will always be the talk of why did you by this. Few women appreciate the Landcruiser, understand that they will go 400k, and accept the continuous repair maintenance schedule. The ones that do...unicorns bro! My wife’s 60k service at lexus cost like 400$ and they didn’t do anything yet she busted my s*** when I paid $600 for my 150k service which was a full fluid baseline. Anyways, if it Will be your primary baby mobile I’d recommend getting a newer highlander, 4runner or even A sequoia. More creature comforts and you won’t get judged by your partner for buying a new to you vehicle with 100k + on the clock. Then recycle your beer cans and buy a 6k project cruiser private market where your maintenance based negotiating strategy will be more effective.

 

[RoosterChaser]

If I were a new dad, I don't know that I would spend $10k (or $8k or $1k) on a broken vehicle, whether it's 4 yrs old or 40 yrs old. This thing is likely going to be someone's nightmare eventually; don't let it be yours. It's probably already the dealer's nightmare.

Something to consider: at a $7500 offer, if you spend all $6k on deferred maintenance and the $3k on cosmetics (not sure I'd call non-functional wipers cosmetic), you'd be almost $17k into a 2001 LX. For $17k, you could buy a very nice, later model LC/LX from the South or the West, even considering a plane ticket. If you half those costs by shopping around or DIY, that's still $12k. There are a lot of nice $12k LC/LX available to buy. There are a lot of nice $10k LC/LX available to buy, for that matter, if you paid what the dealer wants.


Run, don't walk.

Thanks for the reply. I agree with your math on this and its the reason for this post. Doesn't make sense to put $17k into a truck when I could find something ready to go for $12k.

 

[RoosterChaser]

When you said new dad it’s a no. Here’s why...assuming you And your wife/gf/baby momma are still together your Landcruiser will always be the talk of why did you by this. Few women appreciate the Landcruiser, understand that they will go 400k, and accept the continuous repair maintenance schedule. The ones that do...unicorns bro! My wife’s 60k service at lexus cost like 400$ and they didn’t do anything yet she busted my s*** when I paid $600 for my 150k service which was a full fluid baseline. Anyways, if it Will be your primary baby mobile I’d recommend getting a newer highlander, 4runner or even A sequoia. More creature comforts and you won’t get judged by your partner for buying a new to you vehicle with 100k + on the clock. Then recycle your beer cans and buy a 6k project cruiser private market where your maintenance based negotiating strategy will be more effective.

Yeah we have a Subaru Ascent for our baby hauler. But it is my wife's car and there will definitely be times where the baby and I will be solo in the real offroader/camping/hunting rig. I did look at some Sequoias but they really aren't that much cheaper than a LX once you get through the depreciation curve. Plus my wife thinks Sequoias are super ugly. I guess the search continues!