How to lower roll centre? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

so, what's your plan for the rear driveshafts and the t-case, does the t-case have two rear output shafts or ? and how do you keep the d-shafts from interfering with each other or getting hit by the middle axle during articulation?
 
looking forward to it thanx dude.



o.k....... I only have designs (and when I mean designs I mean pictures drawn on the concrete with chalk whilst drinking copious amounts of amber gold) for 2 rear 4-links, identical in construction, 34"ish lowers, and 42"ish uppers, single triangulated, lowers parrellel to chassis due to the 3 driveshafts I need to make my 6-wheel-drive setup work.
I have not considered reversing my links on the mid-diff, I could hazard a guess though and say that it would be pointless because isn't there a reason people do shackle reversal's on L/C's?
You are right I would be looking at about $4.5k in AUD for shocks alone, where I have an idea on how to have statically mounted load sharing air-shocks. Basically the rears will be setup (in pairs, so 2 per diff like normal) to take 65% of the weight on both diff's, and the front air-shocks will be paired (so 4 shocks for the 1 diff) but I am going to join the shcrader valve on the pair's of front shocks to equalise the charge pressure and therefore create a 4.0" airshock. :confused::idea:

yeah yeah i know before you guys say it this is ALL IN THEORY. well I am just gonna give it ago, can't hurt right.:)



some guys over here in Oz do that but, I am trying to keep my budget low here, hydraulics are expensive (as I know from dealing with my hydraulic steering order)



not to be contradictory...... but yes you are correct, however.
There is one setup I have seen and it appeals to me. It is basically a coil-over shock, but the end of the cylinder/ram is not sealed it is connected to a free-floating hydraulic system, so with an open DCV (open centre 3-2 I believe) the fluid in the shock offers a form of dampening as the spring (wrapped around the cylinder/ram) operates in a traditional coil-over setup. When you want to charge the cylinder and gain height (or put more weight onto a wheel with insufficient drive) all that is required is to operate the DCV in a normal manner.



How much does that demon weigh?

I seem to remember an article in an old Overlander or 4x4 Australia magazine about a mob in OZ doing 6x6 75 series cruisers. IIRC they had a load sharing suspension that allowed the rear wheels to self steer as it articulated. I'd still have it somewhere, I keep all the old issues, I'll see if I can find it for you.
 
Finding that artile would be sweet but if hat mob is the same companies I contacted when I first started this idea you would be looking at leaf suspension adn $40k.:rolleyes:
 
Finding that artile would be sweet but if hat mob is the same companies I contacted when I first started this idea you would be looking at leaf suspension adn $40k.:rolleyes:

This one was coils and double a-frame links. Might be good to research and copy some of the ideas.
 
Finding that artile would be sweet but if hat mob is the same companies I contacted when I first started this idea you would be looking at leaf suspension adn $40k.:rolleyes:

I couldn't find the article but I did a quick google search and I think this is the mob I was thinking of. 6 x 6 Australia

You can sorta see the load sharing upper A-frame in this pic

demo03.jpg
 
One more thing about 6x6's..

Your turning radius will be huge..

Even more so with any sort of traction aid in the rear
 
i think 3 steering axles would help with that problem...


that thing is going to be freaking heavy-ier....what engine are you planning to spin those wheels with? not with the diesel 4 banger i hope? can you get bigblock v8's very easily down-under?
 
One more thing about 6x6's..

Your turning radius will be huge..

Even more so with any sort of traction aid in the rear

hey there.

the radius problem is just something I will have to over come.
and I will have air lockers in the front, an auto locker in the middle, and a welded rear ;) this could be good or bad.

I am going to try and over come the massive turning radius by winching up the rear diff giving an instant 38-40" decrase in wheelbase. That can only be good, however it will only work perfectly on flat land but this is what I was talking about wih having a 6" up-travel that much up-travel will aid here.:)
 
i think 3 steering axles would help with that problem...


that thing is going to be freaking heavy-ier....what engine are you planning to spin those wheels with? not with the diesel 4 banger i hope? can you get bigblock v8's very easily down-under?

Maybe if I give my fiance kids she will let me put 3 steering portals under my truck....... give-take?

As far as the weight goes I am hoping the entire truck will not weigh more than a stock 60.

I will have no panels or interior fittings a/c heating, fans, excess wiring.

The extra weight will come from fully hydro-steering, winch, 6xwheels, 3xdiffs......... dammit.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom