How to build a false floor.... (1 Viewer)

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So I am going to start the project of the drawer system, but my first thoughts are this.....whats the best way to get the top part (false floor) sized.....is it to just use cardboard and work it? What methods have you guys tried or like?
 
So I am going to start the project of the drawer system, but my first thoughts are this.....whats the best way to get the top part (false floor) sized.....is it to just use cardboard and work it? What methods have you guys tried or like?

Cardboard worked for me. Cut and tape a templated together the trace out on your material of choice. I'm doing the samething right now minus the false floor.



B.

Drawertemplate.jpg
 
I used a piece of rigid foam insulation as I couldn't find large pieces of cardboard on short notice. It worked ok, but made a mess with little bits of foam everywhere. It vacuumed up easily enough though.

Cheers,
JFS III
 
I built a rectangular box based on the wheelwell measurements, installed it, then cut pieces of wood to length for the wings, then marked off probably 20 width measurements between the installed drawer box and the cargo bay wall/speaker/etc. along each wing piece. With the points marked, I connected the dots by hand and with a straightedge, then cut with a bandsaw, and it turned out rather nicely.

If you're doing a one piece top, I'd say cardboard is easier.
 
I did this for a mate late one afternoon as a rush job, but believe me it is not possible to get the sheet to fit tight to the sides as you can not get it through the back no matter what angles you try.


Joinerman
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Use your carpet as a template. You probably going to take it out anyway.

If you leave it in, it will hold moisture cause rust.

Leaving the carpet in will help greatly with noise insulation. You just need to make it doesn't get wet, or is easy to get to in order to remove/dry. I plan to seal any drawer that might have liquids in it to allow me to just pull that drawer dump it and towel it down.

Also, the carpet folds up on the sides to varying degrees so it doesn't make the perfect template, but it is pretty close if you going to use it as a rough guide to cut some wood and then sand/test fit and repeat until you get the look you want.

Cheers,
JFS III
 
Leaving the carpet in will help greatly with noise insulation. You just need to make it doesn't get wet, or is easy to get to in order to remove/dry. I plan to seal any drawer that might have liquids in it to allow me to just pull that drawer dump it and towel it down.

Also, the carpet folds up on the sides to varying degrees so it doesn't make the perfect template, but it is pretty close if you going to use it as a rough guide to cut some wood and then sand/test fit and repeat until you get the look you want.

Cheers,
JFS III

It will make it much quiter if left in. I saw he was from Colorado and was thinking snow gear. Ski's snow boards etc.

Snow melting on the stuff on the way home from the slopes, etc.
 
I don't do much snow stuff so that didn't occur to me. But you're right, if it risks getting wet regularly and not just an occasional risk, take the carpet out. Perhaps spray some liner down to help keep the back quiet.

Cheers,
JFS III
 
Someone did a two-piece top w/ a seem longitudinally down the center for a nice tight fit. maybe you could do a piano hinge down the center if the height would allow you to install, and then unfold to fit. just a thought.
 
I've just completed a set of drawers for my (new) Prado. The 'wings' are piano hinged so it can easily slide out through the rear door, it mounts solidly to the rear seat mounting bolts.
 
My top piece is piano hinged on the wings and is snapped down to the two base pieces which are split down the middle. So I put in the left bottom piece, push it over, slide the right bottom piece on top then push it over and drop it down. Finally bring fold the wings in on the top piece and slide it in, clamp it down and lower the hinged side pieces. I attached some closet shelf holders to the sides of the bottom pieces to act as extra supports for the hinged wings.

I'm quite happy with that setup. It fills the whole rear, and is still readily removable by one person, though two does make it easier to coordinate the angles on the base pieces. I can show pictures in a week if anyone is interested. I'm out of town until then.

Cheers,
JFS III
 
Why don't you use line-X under the drawers?
 
Edit - oops this is an 80 series thread. I have a 100 series.



Anyone care to reveal what bolt size they went with to install a false floor (mine is 3/4") using the rear jump seat attachment threads ?

Thx !
 

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