How to beef up the 80's axles

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I am looking at re-gearing with 5.29's and figure while I'm in there I might as well do it right. It looks like Longfields in the front and poly performance axles in the rear are the way to go. I also see Poly Performance has stronger front axles...is this needed? Any other suggestions for the "strongest" toyota axle possible? I seem to remember something about using different shims in the front to keep the ring and pinion from grenading but I can't find it now in the "Search"
 
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Make sure you aren't upgrading everything so the 5.29's are the weak link...what size tires are you planning for those gears?
 
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pr0ject42 said:
You may want to read this link before you start questioning the strength of any given R/P combo..

http://www.gearinstalls.com/410suck.htm

The article is drawing visual conclusions - you would need to test the different sets to really know how strong they are in relation to each other. My point is that you don't want the R&P to become a weak point because you made everything else bulletproof. I always favor lower gears as they keep you in better control and limit shock loading from wheelspin.

Nay
 
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Hayes said:
Doesn't the accepted wisdom say that the birfs are the easiest part of the axle to replace, so make sure they're the weak link?

Hayes

Your gonna start drawing a fine line of tensile strength of parts at some point. And your always gonna have a variance, such as specific pressure on one tire or such. To my thinking if any of these parts actually fail completely, your gonna be pretty hard off and be sitting on the trail for quite a while trying to fix. Although, more people do know how to change a birf than regear. Interesting thought.

I guess personally I would try to make everything as strong as possible and keep spares in the unlikely event of breakage.
 
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I've always been taught to make the u-joints the "fuses" of the drivetrain. Does this not hold true with our 80's?
 
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Some times the axle housing can be the weakest link. I have heard of many bent housings. I think that would be the place to start. Doing some thing like this definitely makes your housing stronger.

ball-gussets-001_thumb.jpg


vendor link

I am thinking of getting one of these in the future.
 
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I'd rather blow either a front or rear R&P and disconnect a driveshaft to limp home and do the work than do the greasy deed of replacing a birf or inner on the trail. This is, of course, my ignorant opinion.
 
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Bear80 said:
not when you need a press to install one, not easy for a "trail fix"

not true either, a hammer and some sockets and a screwdrive will get it done if you have to.
 
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OLDGOAT said:
I've always been taught to make the u-joints the "fuses" of the drivetrain. Does this not hold true with our 80's?


I agree with you. I would bet money that if you upgraded the axles and birfs the week link would be the u-joint and not the r&p.
 
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ridgerunner said:
A well maintained Cruiser joint of any era is not a fuse. You're more than likely to break a pinion or axle shaft.
Or twist a driveshaft...IMO u-joints rarely break, and broken Cruiser ones are even rarer...
 
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clownmidget said:
not true either, a hammer and some sockets and a screwdrive will get it done if you have to.

Been there, done that on my Scout with Dana 44's. In fact, that's the only way I've ever done it. It's not too bad, about 1/2 hour per joint, and maybe 1:banana: . At about $12 for a new joint, I'll change those all day on my Scout, rather than a R&P.

I haven't yet had the pleasure of changing a u-joint on the LX, so I wasn't sure of the differences. From the responses it sounds similar.

Changing a birf or axle shaft on the trail, or anywhere for that matter sounds like a royal pain. I'd vote for longfields and spare oem u-joints.
 
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Are the U-joints going to be a problem on a locked 80 with 37's. Isn't it the locker and turning that causes all the breakage with the birfs? Seems to me the next week link would be the inner axles and then the ring and pinion. I could see breaking a u-joint with the combination of POWER (my 80 doesn't have it) and bouncing backwards trying to go forwards.

I have a few more questions

best bearings to use for front and rear
seal kits? what is required


would it be possible to add a "best optoins for axle rebuilds" ie. what needs to be replaced or adressed and what are the best parts to use.
 
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I haven't broken a birf or a r&p in my cruiser but I sure broke the uni in the front tailshaft. The only thing that stopped me rolling back down the killer hill I was trying to climb was the front tailshaft slid out of the slip yoke and jammed sideways in the rut chocking the wheel. It made for an interesting recovery! Then I had to remove the carnage and drive back out in RWD. Steep downhills that were fun in 4LO were downright :eek::eek::eek: in RWD.

BTW, I've broken a few birfs and r&ps in other lesser 4bys but not in my cruiser.
 
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Mickldo said:
The only thing that stopped me rolling back down the killer hill I was trying to climb was the front tailshaft slid out of the slip yoke and jammed sideways in the rut chocking the wheel. It made for an interesting recovery! Then I had to remove the carnage and drive back out in RWD. Steep downhills that were fun in 4LO were downright :eek::eek::eek: in RWD.

Got pics...........................:rolleyes:

That does sound downright interesting for lack of a better word.:eek:
 
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Yeah I've got some pics but I've got to learn how post pics :doh: Hopefully this weekend my mate is coming over to help me fit my new lift kit and he can give me a puter lesson.
 

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