How to Beat Slinky Stage 4 (1 Viewer)

[Delta VS]

Glad we made the cut!

 

[chap79]

Glad we made the cut!

Your radius arms are at the top on my short list. But I’d have to cut off my current links...

 

[nukegoat]

I just came in the thread to hate on things but I am not sure where to start

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I have the King Bumps. They’re unnecessary.

But cool

 

[shocktower]

I just came in the thread to hate on things but I am not sure where to start

OP is a great starting point, he seems fair game

 

[RFB]

So before this whole debate starts I'd like to explain myself, and my reasoning. I will be walking through how I would beat Stage 4 with a kit that you or I can piece together ourselves. The common belief seems to be that stage 4 is the end all be all for a bolt in kit. It is a great kit, but there are a ton of other options out there. I enjoy doing research and finding deals on this stuff, so this is what I would use to beat slinky stage 4 (keeping those stock arms of course).


First - I will hit up David Otero down at Dobinsons to hook me up with:
- Rear lower control arms $300
- Rear upper control arms $250
- 3.5" tapered coils $350
- 3" flexi coils for the rear $250

Second - Hit up Slee for a front sway drop bracket $50
Third - Order a slinky HD rear sway $425 (I know something from the opposition )
Fourth - Hit up Delta for a Delta Panhard lift bracket $250

Last - Hit up the boys at Filthy Motorsports for some Badass King 2.5x12" 3 Tube bypasses
and a set of 2.0x2" Bumps. Total ~$3300

- Wait I have other options though.
How do King 3.0x12" smoothies sound??? Similar price to the bypasses ( less tuning though)
- 3.0s should ideally be the size you run on how heavy/ fast we are trying to get these 80s to
run. Especially in a single shock setup. 3.0s have more oil thus more cooling.
A 3.0 is equal to 2 2.5s. Just like a 2.5 is equal to 2 2.0s. More
dampening and less heat sounds good to me!
- When you order the shocks they will work with you to custom valve
them so that they work the absolute best for the situations you drive you in. (None of this "well slinky has the best valving" Filthy is the king of the off road shock world.....they will get it right)

- DISCLAIMER Anything over a 12" travel shock and the front can't handle it. I tried haha. So that is the reason to order 12s not 14s. A 10" may even be needed for the front since a pin to eye adaptor will be needed.

NOW the grand total. My "kit" VS Slinky stage 4

Slinky comes out to $4100
My "kit comes out to $5175 -----------WOW about a grand over.....but give me a chance

-------------------This is running 3.0 shocks and stand alone front bumps -------------------

If you have 4k slinky is flipping awesome, I will never argue against that.....but if you have 4 you probably have 5, and this is HOW to beat it. Let the debate ensue. Also------I no longer own my 3linked 80 so my opinion or "facts" mean nothing.






-(also don't hate me slinky guys)-

you almost described my suspension damn close

 

[mudgudgeon]

All providing you shocks have remote reservoir otherwise you will see fade in time

Enduro racing in the mall?

 

[RFB]

If I’m going to spend that kind of coin on suspension for a solid axle truck I wouldn’t want my limiting factor to still be the radius arm setup.

What folks really need to decide is HOW they want to use their rigs. Expedition travel, mall cruiser, desert runner, rock crawler. One solution does not fill all requirements no matter how much we want them too.

BUT an 80 can do almost all of it, if gas mileage isnt a consideration.

 

[baldilocks]

All of it subjectivity

 

[Tapage]

those king shocks !

 

[DanMedeiros]

How much are just the shocks. I have icon 2.0s that aren't cutting it with love i like to drive through the desert fully loaded

 

[ExpoMax]

I thought you were selling your 80 and making something to go fast?

Yeah I sold my 80 in October......And built this

That other 80 is my dads btw.

 

[ExpoMax]

I have the King Bumps. They’re unnecessary.

I actually do agree after doing moab trips with lots of runners and tacos with them. Really loud unless your rig has any real uptravel.

 

[ExpoMax]

3.0 triple bypasses....

Now your like 1k per shock . Be quite epic though

 

[ExpoMax]

Glad we made the cut!

Oh ya you guys are cool

 

[ExpoMax]

How much are just the shocks. I have icon 2.0s that aren't cutting it with love i like to drive through the desert fully loaded

Some king 2.5s are not totally awful. You could probably be around 2k

 

[ExpoMax]

I just came in the thread to hate on things but I am not sure where to start

You should follow me on insta.....I need someone to tell me everything I’m doing wrong on the buggy

 

[nukegoat]

You should follow me on insta.....I need someone to tell me everything I’m doing wrong on the buggy

You couldnt afford it, honey

 

[RFB]

I won’t lie, if I was still living out west some 2.5s were on my short list for the truck. But since we moved and high speed desert travel doesn’t happen in Missouri, I just ordered a set of Icon 2.0 to replace my Fox 2.0.

But damn did the adult in me have to beat the child pretty good to get me to down grade my desire.

downgrading is so hard to do, But every 6 months I releases like a coral reef, and reup.

 

[Box Rocket]

Interesting discussion. One piece I'll agree on is that the stock radius arms are the primary limitation in front travel. Old news and the options to remedy that apply to any combination of other components as well. The Delta arms are a great option. The Slinky guys have their own arms coming out soon but I haven't seen them yet, but I'm sure they will be a nice improvement over OEM arms. The rest.....I'd just suggest that people looking at these different options try to experience them firsthand, then decide what "beats" the others. In my experience the Slinky kit will hold it's own without someone like me needing to justify it. But compare apples to apples. If you're comparing bolt on kits, compare them with other bolt on kits.

There's always more than one way to skin a cat. Personally when looking at bolt on options I'm a fan of using a complete system that's engineered to work together from the get go, rather than piecing a mix of components. IMO, comparing complete kits or pieced together bolt on "kits" the slinky kit performed better and rode nicer than the others in my experience, and for $1k less than what the OP suggested in order to "beat" it.

There are enough of these different options out there that it shouldn't be too difficult to find someone willing to take you for a ride so you can experience whatever combo you want. Whatever works best for you in the end, go with that.