How position a manual transmission in a 1995 2wd truck (not Tacoma)? (1 Viewer)

[StorminMatt]

After replacing the clutch in my Accord, I finally decided to replace the clutch in my brother’s 1995 truck. It’s just a basic, 2wd, 22re shortbed truck. But the job has been a complete headache. Getting the transmission out was no picnic. I had no choice but to disassemble the clutch to get the pilot shaft and bellhousing to clear so that it could drop out. Now, I cannot get the transmission in the truck and positioned to stab the pilot shaft in the clutch! There just doesn’t seem to be enough room to get it in. Yet, the service manual makes no mention of any kind of ‘trick’ that may be necessary to get it to fit. Youtube videos seem to leave out any mention of this as well. It would appear that I’m the only one having this difficulty. Am I missing something? Is there something that needs to be done to make it fit (like installing it at some special angle)? Or am I just going to have to get the cherry picker out and unbolt engine mounts to make room?

 

[gnob]

Clock the trans as you raise it into place

 

[KLF]

I found it's much easier if you remove the cab.

(kidding)

Are you allowing the engine to rotate towards the rear of the truck? Remove the 3 nuts to disconnect the exhaust from the manifold, then let the engine droop down at the back. The limit is when the valve cover hits the firewall. This will give you plenty of room to tilt the trans and stab it on the clutch.

 

[pappy]

I found it's much easier if you remove the cab.

Are you allowing the engine to rotate towards the rear of the truck? Remove the 3 nuts to disconnect the exhaust from the manifold, then let the engine droop down at the back. The limit is when the valve cover hits the firewall. This will give you plenty of room to tilt the trans and stab it on the clutch.

@KLF, you just earned two ROFL emojis from Pappy. There is no such thing as "plenty of room" to stab the tranny. There is just more room. But, KLF is right, you need to give the engine as much wiggle backwards as you can, and it's usually the exhaust pipe that keeps that from happening. A tilting tranny jack, a 6-pack of beer, a pizza, a buddy, and some choice words from the urban dictionary, also helps.

 

[gnob]

I think you guys are missing the fact that this is a 2wd and the cross member does not come out.

 

[pappy]

I think you guys are missing the fact that this is a 2wd and the cross member does not come out.

Well, since we all own 4x4 trucks, the fact that a 2WD has a fixed cross-member would be new information to us.

 

[yotadude520]

The only thing I know about 2WD Toyota Pickups is that they have a rear sump oil pan....

 

[KLF]

I think you guys are missing the fact that this is a 2wd and the cross member does not come out.

That's what torches are for.

Seriously? The crossmember can't be removed? I find that hard to believe.

 

[gnob]

Believe it

 

[KLF]

OK, so you have me curious. I pulled out my '94 FSM, and looked it up. Looks like the center crossmember also has the height adjusting pivots for the torsion bars, so it can't be removed (unless you disassemble the front suspension). But, there is a "rear mounting bracket" that comes off the crossmember that once removed, allows the tail of the transmission to drop down below (allow the engine to tilt back), then it will slide out.

 

[pappy]

But, there is a "rear mounting bracket" that comes off the crossmember that once removed, allows the tail of the transmission to drop down below (allow the engine to tilt back), then it will slide out.

This? 51229b? Labeled No 2. Frame Crossmember Dynamic Dumper

 

[old87yota]

Yes, the transmission cross member on 2 Wheel Drive Trucks is literally welded (not bolted) to the frame.

My 1987 2 Wheel Drive Truck is the same: Welded.

 

[KLF]

 

[jgranthevagrant]

I think you guys are missing the fact that this is a 2wd and the cross member does not come out.

I was curious about that as well, but did not check the fsm.

 

[pappy]

This really is all a moot point. The transmission was out, and it didn't do it by itself. Clearly there was a way to drop it down and the fixed crossmember is irrelevant. I wouldn't be surprised if the mount is still attached to the tail.

 

[Techenstein]

I feel the OP's pain. Been there several times on this one. They always seem to come out a lot easier than they go in.

First, you need to jack up the rear of the engine until it hits the firewall.
Then get the tail shaft of the tranny over the crossmember. You will need to rotate it to around 45-90 degrees.
Once you get the bellhousing past the engine and clutch, you are home free. You can rotate the tranny back to normal, and then lower the engine to somewhere near normal.
Keep the jack under the engine cause you will have to raise and lower to get the tranny shaft into the spline and pilot bearing.

 

[Ryno5150]

+1 on Techenstein's advice.
I just had the transmission out of one of my 2WD pickups to swap tailshaft housings. Don't need to jack up engine or loosen exhaust. Slide trans back, rotate, bellhousing barely slips past pressure plate.
When installing, slide tailshaft over crossmember, rotate trans 180°, trans will easily clear pressure plate. Rotate trans right side up, move forward, and hear that satisfying "clunk" of the transmission sliding into place.