Hi all - took my 100 series (277,xxx) to get an inspection today and they told me that I had to replace tie rods, ball joints, driver's side wheel bearing, and CV to pass. Feels like this is "most of the front end" although it goes down the road straight with no vibration etc. I'm wondering what other parts are worth doing now while that area of the vehicle is being worked on. I'm also curious if anyone has taken on these specific projects and realized it was too much work or any ideas / tips for these specific areas.
How Much to Bite off - tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearing, CV's, etc (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SBBREEN
- Start date
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Interesting. What exactly do you have to pass?
If your front end doesn't click when going around a corner, I would bet the CV's are fine. IF they don't click, but the boots are ripped, then they need service but the boots can be replaced without paying for all new CV axles.
Wheel bearings may need to be repacked, but until you get them out to look at, no one can say they are bad. That is unless they are totally shredded and scretching all the time while driving.
Look at the FAQ section at the top of the web page and you will see write ups with pics of what each repair looks like. It will take a little time, but then you will be educated about what they want to do.
If your front end doesn't click when going around a corner, I would bet the CV's are fine. IF they don't click, but the boots are ripped, then they need service but the boots can be replaced without paying for all new CV axles.
Wheel bearings may need to be repacked, but until you get them out to look at, no one can say they are bad. That is unless they are totally shredded and scretching all the time while driving.
Look at the FAQ section at the top of the web page and you will see write ups with pics of what each repair looks like. It will take a little time, but then you will be educated about what they want to do.
uHu
Bridgeburner
Yes, wheel bearings are normally "for life", and easily serviceable. While you are at it, check and lube spindle bearings, and inspect brake rotors. Remember to always change the inner hub seal when taking hub off (and if the bearing has been mal adjusted, the seal will be shot).
Depending on how the hubs have been serviced previously, you might need to change the six cones, pin bolts and nuts for the flange, in addition to the non-reusable parts.
Depending on how the hubs have been serviced previously, you might need to change the six cones, pin bolts and nuts for the flange, in addition to the non-reusable parts.
The potential gotchas there would be in the rebooting of the CV (regreasing and booting is a big chore) and the ball joints. The ball joints can be replaced without doing the entire arm, but that's not how Toyota intended the repair to go. Toyota intends you to remove and replace the entire arm.
If you buy the entire assemblies and use Toyota parts you minimize your risk... And lighten your wallet. Buy entire new Toyota cvs and control arms and life is easy.
Also a minor thing, but can be a big annoyance are the cone washers. They *should* pop off with a few whacks of a brass hammer or drift, but I often have to use my air chisel which is a bit of a no-no, but with a careful hand it's safe enough.
Your situation is one where this could be a $1000 job or a $7000 job pending what parts you settle on and if you're paying a pro for labor.
If you buy the entire assemblies and use Toyota parts you minimize your risk... And lighten your wallet. Buy entire new Toyota cvs and control arms and life is easy.
Also a minor thing, but can be a big annoyance are the cone washers. They *should* pop off with a few whacks of a brass hammer or drift, but I often have to use my air chisel which is a bit of a no-no, but with a careful hand it's safe enough.
Your situation is one where this could be a $1000 job or a $7000 job pending what parts you settle on and if you're paying a pro for labor.
@SBBREEN
FWIW I recently ordered OEM front UCAs and LCAs from Impex; the strength of the dollar/yen made this a great deal even with shipping. The yen has somewhat recovered from its bottom but this route still merits consideration, especially with a large order of expensive parts. (I've yet to install the parts; they're for a planned refresh as my '07 approaches 200k miles.)
I do understand that not everyone intends to keep their rig "forever" or wants to spend the money to do so. My considerations were: highest quality/longevity of replaced parts; highest quality of OEM ride; cost of the time involved.
Hope you get the rig sorted to your satisfaction. If you're in the DC area, then you're not far from Bealton, VA where @OTRAMM is located; they are a top-tier Cruiser shop, and it would likely be worth a visit, even if only for a 2nd opinion.
Keep the thread updated as you find out more -- I always like to see how these projects turn out. Welcome to Mud!
FWIW I recently ordered OEM front UCAs and LCAs from Impex; the strength of the dollar/yen made this a great deal even with shipping. The yen has somewhat recovered from its bottom but this route still merits consideration, especially with a large order of expensive parts. (I've yet to install the parts; they're for a planned refresh as my '07 approaches 200k miles.)
I do understand that not everyone intends to keep their rig "forever" or wants to spend the money to do so. My considerations were: highest quality/longevity of replaced parts; highest quality of OEM ride; cost of the time involved.
Hope you get the rig sorted to your satisfaction. If you're in the DC area, then you're not far from Bealton, VA where @OTRAMM is located; they are a top-tier Cruiser shop, and it would likely be worth a visit, even if only for a 2nd opinion.
Keep the thread updated as you find out more -- I always like to see how these projects turn out. Welcome to Mud!
take it for a 2nd opinion
Did you take it to a dealer or an independent shop? Regardless, I would take it to a reputable independent in your area for a second opinion. I just passed inspection done with leaking CVs and a very loose driver's side bearing. Obviously the requirements may be different in your area.
You can see if the bearings are loose by jacking up the front end and wiggling the wheel. If the wheel moves, the bearings need to be repacked, possibly replaced, and lock nuts adjusted for preload and torqued. While the truck is jacked up, you can check for play in the tie rods and ball joints.
As far as other items to replace, it depends on if and when those items were previously replaced and their current condition. If you plan to replace the upper and lower ball joints, you may consider replacing the UCA and LCA bushings. If you plan on lifting the truck, you may want to replace the UCAs with aftermarket.
You can see if the bearings are loose by jacking up the front end and wiggling the wheel. If the wheel moves, the bearings need to be repacked, possibly replaced, and lock nuts adjusted for preload and torqued. While the truck is jacked up, you can check for play in the tie rods and ball joints.
As far as other items to replace, it depends on if and when those items were previously replaced and their current condition. If you plan to replace the upper and lower ball joints, you may consider replacing the UCA and LCA bushings. If you plan on lifting the truck, you may want to replace the UCAs with aftermarket.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks for all of the quick comments/feedback. Flattered by everyone's concern for the rig (and my wallet lol).
So the inspection is a Vermont state inspection. It's notoriously specific and this vehicle passed VA with flying colors but up here it's a different story. The feedback above came from a very reputable independent shop that provides the best customer service in the area as it relates to inspections. They are not blowing smoke, nut pointing out key areas. The tech took videos and talked me through each of these points. He was amazed at how well it drove for all of the sloppyness underneath.
I am going to another shop just to check... this time a Toyota dealer and can't imagine it being significantly better (only worse). I feel confident in my ability to do the work but after some digging, I plan to just buy all new upper / lowers instead of pushing out ball joints and will do both outer and inner tie rods at the same time.
The rig drives totally fine and I do not daily it so it may be a - wait until warmer days project but will know more tomorrow after a 2nd team take a look.
I know I didn't add this to the initial write up... but I developed a brake leak last week and looks like its time for a new master cylinder as well. Lucky me! Overall, she will get what she needs and I will post additional pictures/commentary once I have things to share.
So the inspection is a Vermont state inspection. It's notoriously specific and this vehicle passed VA with flying colors but up here it's a different story. The feedback above came from a very reputable independent shop that provides the best customer service in the area as it relates to inspections. They are not blowing smoke, nut pointing out key areas. The tech took videos and talked me through each of these points. He was amazed at how well it drove for all of the sloppyness underneath.
I am going to another shop just to check... this time a Toyota dealer and can't imagine it being significantly better (only worse). I feel confident in my ability to do the work but after some digging, I plan to just buy all new upper / lowers instead of pushing out ball joints and will do both outer and inner tie rods at the same time.
The rig drives totally fine and I do not daily it so it may be a - wait until warmer days project but will know more tomorrow after a 2nd team take a look.
I know I didn't add this to the initial write up... but I developed a brake leak last week and looks like its time for a new master cylinder as well. Lucky me! Overall, she will get what she needs and I will post additional pictures/commentary once I have things to share.
I started with just bearings and it muliplied into all you listed. It was the absolute biggest job I personally had ever done and I needed some new tools and lots of help from these forums. It had over 200k when I did it and I’m confident now it will last another 200. It’s doable but devote some time and garage space . This investment though is only if you are keeping the Cruiser as the good parts add up.
- Thread starter
- #11
Alright folks - as an update I did what you would probably think is insane and brought the rig to a local Toyota dealer for a 2nd opinion. They did not agree with anything that the last shop stated and amazingly said no to literally everything the other shop stated was required. I did have them work on a few other known issues and their work was fast and quality (although the hourly is quite high). I guess the only thing I can state here is that the 2nd opinion is worthwhile and I will dive in myself when some of this snow melts.
Sounds like a decent dealer, did you say anything before taking it in or just hey I need an inspection?
A lot skilled labor rates are increasing, not many people stepping up and learning mechanical or construction jobs. Plenty of low quailty help around but not many younger guys making it a career and working up the chain, at least in my local.
