How much lift is enough?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by KSV, Oct 26, 2005.

  1. KSV

    KSV

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    Well, understandable that this is very broad question and right answer would be “whatever you like” or “depending on application”. But still – what is most practical? What the highest lift without modification of stock driveterrain (apart of spring and shocks of course)? How high vehicle can be lifted without introducing much bodyroll and without losing drivability on the road?

    Thanks.

    BTW front axle is life.
     
  2. beno

    beno Gihee Arakawa Moderator Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    I think you are good until about 4" or so...then you have to start replacing things, changing angles, and the like.

    Don't forget about the size of the tires you are running as well...this contributes to drivabiliy also.

    Others will chime it...I would recommend that you go to the "cruiser garage" up top and check out people's photos and the things they've done to their rigs...

    Best.
    -onur
    Akron, OH
     
  3. NorCalDoug

    NorCalDoug problems solved daily...

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    OME 2.5" based on the criteria I highlighted.

    Anything higher would put you in "maybe-land" -- maybe it'll work...maybe it won't.

    You could go to OME J springs...but I've heard of some having issues with driveline vibes...but then again...some don't have problems...maybe-land.
     
  4. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Typically, the purpose of "lifting" an off-road vechicle is to make clearance for larger tyres. The larger tyres give you more ground clearance. More ground clearance means more obstacles that your truck can clear. See the portal axles threads for a case in point. With portals you get the ground clearance without needing to "lift" the truck other than what you would do to fit larger tyres.

    That being said, most will lift ~3" to run 33" tyres, ~4" to run 35" tyres, and ~6" to run 36" & 37" tyres. You can also accomodate 35"+ tyres by lowering the axle bump stops which essentially accomplishes the same thing; prevents the tyre from contacting the inner wheel well by limiting upward travel.

    -B-
     
  5. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    In my opinion anything higher than 2 inches needs to take caster into consideration and anything over 4 needs to take panhards into consideration as well as sway drops and possible driveline work.

    No two 80's react to the same ammount of lift in the same manner. Caster in particular is very fickle. Some vehicles can be lifted as much as three inches in the front and still drive "OK" but not right. At two inches some can be a real handful to control without correction.

    D-
     
  6. beno

    beno Gihee Arakawa Moderator Supporting Vendor GOLD Star

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    I think this is the reason why we see so many drive shafts threads AFTER a lift, when before, the rig was driving fine.
     
  7. Darwood

    Darwood

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    I find 6" to be very practical.

    As Prezident Doug stated, about 2.5"

    6" is very driveable and the body roll isn't bad at all. The 80 is my wives daily driver.

    Just my personal experience.
     
  8. OZCAL

    OZCAL

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    I've been polling the ARB shops down here and getting that answer too. Pricing all over the place :)frown: ) but same answer Doug gave.
     
  9. Kalawang

    Kalawang

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    It's not the size, it's how you use it. :rolleyes:


    Kalawang
     
  10. LX_TREME

    LX_TREME

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    Right :rolleyes:
     
  11. kirk

    kirk

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    The Slee 6" package is the max. Slee did a great job maxing out lift while keeping important geometries where they need to be. I am very happy with mine on the road. I would love to find a way out how to make super swamper perform better on the road. I think one could surpass the 6" mark by cutting and rotating the spindles back a few degrees. I did this to my 40 and if made a huge difference. I would also think a "Long Arm" suspension would be necessary too.
     
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