How much axel shaft wear is too much? (1 Viewer)

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Lyle Kilson

Go fast, don’t die.
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Nov 28, 2020
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Location
Saint George, UT
I’m in the middle of my first knuckle rebuild. So far I’ve been learning a ton and it’s been a smooth process. I’m wondering though how much wear is too much wear on axel shafts where the oil seal rides? I purchased the Wits End overdrive seal press tool that overdrives the oil seal 2mm for this reason. I just don’t know if there is such thing as TOO much wear that even the overdrive seal tool wont save me. Thoughts?
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we're in a similar situation. Pulling apart my front end. drivers side axel seal was leaking 'cause I drained a bunch of fluid. The brass bushing was galled somewhat, so I ordered a new one (not cheap, ~$55). Passenger side likely leaked just a touch. Bushing looked excellent. both seal surfaces feel great even though they look polished (much to my surprise). So, for me. New bushing on drivers side. swap Birfs (passenger to drivers and vise-versa) new bearings & seals and I think good to go (insert fingers crossed emoji here!!!).

hope your job gives the results you're looking for. Mine? I won't know for at least a month - doing complete engine rebuild (and more):bang::banana:
 
The easy answer is if there is any doubt, replace the axles while you’re in there.

If they’re in the budget, since you’re in Utah and will likely be in the rocks, a set of RCV 30-spline axles, ARP knuckle and hub studs, and a set of Wits’ End Nut Huggers will set up well for Utah wheeling.
 
we're in a similar situation. Pulling apart my front end. drivers side axel seal was leaking 'cause I drained a bunch of fluid. The brass bushing was galled somewhat, so I ordered a new one (not cheap, ~$55). Passenger side likely leaked just a touch. Bushing looked excellent. both seal surfaces feel great even though they look polished (much to my surprise). So, for me. New bushing on drivers side. swap Birfs (passenger to drivers and vise-versa) new bearings & seals and I think good to go (insert fingers crossed emoji here!!!).

hope your job gives the results you're looking for. Mine? I won't know for at least a month - doing complete engine rebuild (and more):bang::banana:
Thanks for the feedback. Glad you were able to figure out your issue. I wish I was in the same boat as far as rebuilding my engine! I got new birffs for both sides and have pretty much replaced everything EXCEPT the shafts. I’d like to avoid paying $400+ for brand new axel shafts. So if I can get by with the ones I have, overdrive the oil seal by 2mm, and avoid any leaking, I’d like to go that route.
 
The easy answer is if there is any doubt, replace the axles while you’re in there.

If they’re in the budget, since you’re in Utah and will likely be in the rocks, a set of RCV 30-spline axles, ARP knuckle and hub studs, and a set of Wits’ End Nut Huggers will set up well for Utah wheeling.
I got the nut huggers! $400 for new axels isn’t really in the budget unfortunately. So hopefully this overdrive tool from Wits End will work out. I’ll look into that hardware you suggested. I got some new hardware already from Cruiser Outfitters but you’ve got me curious…
 
I got the nut huggers! $400 for new axels isn’t really in the budget unfortunately. So hopefully this overdrive tool from Wits End will work out. I’ll look into that hardware you suggested. I got some new hardware already from Cruiser Outfitters but you’ve got me curious…
Cruiser Outfitters is a great source for parts. When I bought my studs, Cruiser Outfitters didn’t stock them, so I went with Front Range Offroad.

 
Think you'll be good with the overdrive. Seen much worse that still 'held air'.
Speaking of...in what shape are the axle breathers? These gone bad can force diff fluid past the seal under pressure.
 
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Think you'll be good with the overdrive. Seen much worse that still held 'air'.
Speaking of...in what shape are the axle breathers? These gone bad can force diff fluid past the seal under pressure.
what @LandLocked93 said ^^ that is why the tool was invented.
 

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