how long to make my drive shaft??

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 13, 2006
Threads
104
Messages
1,370
Location
Edmonton, AB/Vancouver Island, B.C.
so i need help...kinda fast, i need to shorten my rear drive shaft and im not sure how much travel to give it on the splines to compress, i was thinking and had read about an inch of compression...i know that i can kill my x-case in a hurry if i screw this up so i just wanted to check and see what was what.

thanks for the help guys!

edit: forgot to mention that i gotta get this sucker done ASAP as it needs to be used on saterday for my sisters wedding -she wants to drive away in something badass and this came to mind:cool:
 
i drove one around for 3 months with only front wheel drive and no problems .
 
yeah, that seems safer on such short notice.
I actually need a new front drive shaft, so I'm driving only in RWD. I got a quote of $350 to make up a new front. Seems ridiculously high. Any idea whats a good price for this? or any place in Orange County, CA that will do a good job? I have an SBC 350, TH400, Dana18 TC. (sorry to hijack your thread..)


Are you going to paint the window "Just Married"?

Hopefully as they drive off, they'll be dragging cans on string, not dragging transmission parts behind them! Congrats.. :grinpimp:
 
shoot 350 what a rip, buy one in the classifieds section take it to your local shop and have it made to order.
 
measure flange to flange. take to competent driveline shop. pay them to modify length and balance. reinstall and prob solved. they will decide where to put the spline engagement.

or take the driveshaft and truck to them and let them measure it.
 
Old time hot rod guy welded up mine. He said to allow 1" for compression.

Been running that way for 14 years without problems. I didn't have them balanced and I don't have any problems with vibrations. The fabricator just made a nice even weld around the shaft after he shortened it.
 
thanks smurf, thats what ill figure on then

the whole reason im doing this is because i dont have $250-300 to pay somebody to do this for me, i dont like farming stuff out that i can do and its gunna cost me $30 to do it this way which i know a couple guys who have done it and had good results...gunna try to get it done today...i hope
 
it should not cost more than $75 tops to have your DS shortened and balanced by a local drivetrain shop that specializes in this service.

If this is too much money may I seriously suggest a different hobby? This is nothing in the big picture. 3 big ones buys you a custom CVDS with an extended slipjoint. Not what you are asking....or needing.

all too famailiar story here on mud...
-people ask advice
-others give advice
-OP keeps asking until they get the answer they want
-all other suggestions are discarded as overkill/unnecessary
 
it should not cost more than $75 tops to have your DS shortened and balanced by a local drivetrain shop that specializes in this service.

If this is too much money may I seriously suggest a different hobby? This is nothing in the big picture. 3 big ones buys you a custom CVDS with an extended slipjoint. Not what you are asking....or needing.

all too famailiar story here on mud...
-people ask advice
-others give advice
-OP keeps asking until they get the answer they want
-all other suggestions are discarded as overkill/unnecessary

I agree that it shouldn't cost more than $75... But around here people charge what they want and we have to pay it or do it ourselves. For work of this nature there are very few places in town that do it.

Some of us like to do the work ourselves and don't have a thick wad of cash burning a hole in our pocket. The last time I took my 40 to a specialty shop they took an oxy-acetylene torch to one of my transmission mounts to make it easier to reinstall the transmission:mad:. I didn't notice it till about a year later :censor:. Just imagine how you would feel. Should I go back there if I need DS or other work done? Or do it myself and be sure I know what has been done. That's the sort of work I consistently see when I bring my vehicles to the shops around here, it is :censor:.
 
Last edited:
it should not cost more than $75 tops to have your DS shortened and balanced by a local drivetrain shop that specializes in this service.

Cost really depends on where you live. It's at least twice that cost around here..

If this is too much money may I seriously suggest a different hobby? This is nothing in the big picture. 3 big ones buys you a custom CVDS with an extended slipjoint. Not what you are asking....or needing.

all too famailiar story here on mud...
-people ask advice
-others give advice
-OP keeps asking until they get the answer they want
-all other suggestions are discarded as overkill/unnecessary

Nice comment, grumpy today?
:rolleyes:
 
driveshafts

paid 140 for two at a driveshaft specialist---he just had me measure flange to flange and he sorted it---he had to order in the metric sized pipe for it though---had one lengthened and the other shortened after the 2f and 4 speed install in my 71

at the time I thought that was a lot though
 
check out this B.S...
==

To build you a new toyota cv style driveline will run around 450.00
We may be able to use the ends off your old one that would help lower the cost.
Feel free to give me a call if you have any other questions.

Wade
800-963-7483

Yeeee Haw!!!

==
From: Jay <>
To: drivelines1993@yahoo.com
Sent: Thu, June 10, 2010 1:14:57 PM
Subject: Front Drive Shaft?
- Hide quoted text -

Hello,
How much would it cost to make up a front drive shaft?
I have an old one that was pulled out, but it was some custom or homemade piece, possibly
made out of an axle. It's about 60 lbs, and the weight and wobble took out bearing in my
Dana18 transfer case.

I have a 1971 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser, with an SBC 350 crate engine going in. It had a 327,
with a TH400 and Dana18 TC. My mechanic says the slip joint it no good, and the whole shaft is way too heavy to balance correctly. Any estimate on cost for this?

Much thanks..
 
check out this B.S...
==

To build you a new toyota cv style driveline will run around 450.00
We may be able to use the ends off your old one that would help lower the cost.
Feel free to give me a call if you have any other questions.

Wade
800-963-7483

Yeeee Haw!!!

==
From: Jay <>
To: drivelines1993@yahoo.com
Sent: Thu, June 10, 2010 1:14:57 PM
Subject: Front Drive Shaft?
- Hide quoted text -

Hello,
How much would it cost to make up a front drive shaft?
I have an old one that was pulled out, but it was some custom or homemade piece, possibly
made out of an axle. It's about 60 lbs, and the weight and wobble took out bearing in my
Dana18 transfer case.

I have a 1971 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser, with an SBC 350 crate engine going in. It had a 327,
with a TH400 and Dana18 TC. My mechanic says the slip joint it no good, and the whole shaft is way too heavy to balance correctly. Any estimate on cost for this?

Much thanks..

Not surprising at all for a "custom" driveshaft.

You will also need a flange for that D18 to use a Toy CV.
 
I sent mine to Jesse at High Angle Driveline High Angle Drivline-Call Jesse at 530-877-2875, He's up in the Norcal area, charged me around $120 if I remember right to lengthen my rear driveshaft, swap in some joint parts from a donor driveshaft, and lube/paint it up real nice. One piece of heavy wall tube, not some patch in an extra few inches job.
 
I had a custom rear driveshaft made for my SBC 350, 700r4, and stock TC and it cost me $300 plus tax. It was really beefy and the guy did a great job on it. Now I have to have the front made, just need to water my money tree!!

Nick
 
I had a custom rear driveshaft made for my SBC 350, 700r4, and stock TC and it cost me $300 plus tax. It was really beefy and the guy did a great job on it. Now I have to have the front made, just need to water my money tree!!

Nick

My rig's PO had a custom rear made, and it was really beefy and apparently well done. Has a plate "AUKEEN DRIVELINES" on it. But, my front was this hack job, that's very heavy and wobbly. Apparently, the front doesn't need to be very heavy, and should be a lot less expensive. Does that sound right?
 
My rig's PO had a custom rear made, and it was really beefy and apparently well done. Has a plate "AUKEEN DRIVELINES" on it. But, my front was this hack job, that's very heavy and wobbly. Apparently, the front doesn't need to be very heavy, and should be a lot less expensive. Does that sound right?

Don't know about the front but I would assume that it would need to be just a beefy as the rear for when you are stuck, hammering on the gas, in the rocks, etc. I'm planning on my front driveshaft to cost me as much as my rear. But I would love it if it doesn't!!!


Nick
 
Cost really depends on where you live. It's at least twice that cost around here..:

valid point. it comes down to shopping, ponyup, move or become a better consumer



Nice comment, grumpy today?:

nope. just a dose of reality. truth hurts I guess
 
Don't know about the front but I would assume that it would need to be just a beefy as the rear for when you are stuck, hammering on the gas, in the rocks, etc. I'm planning on my front driveshaft to cost me as much as my rear. But I would love it if it doesn't!!!

Nick

my mechanic knows I'm a poser :banana: ... this is mainly my DD rig and the biggest incline I usually encounter is my parking garage at work! I think that's what he meant by me not needing a super heavy-duty front. For the last year, I actually didn't even know my front drive shaft and TC was messed up, because I'm never in 4WD! Good luck..
 
Makes sense and I too am a poser, but for peace of mind for when / if I actually REALLY do need to have my 4wd get me out of a pinch I will be glad to have this guy build my driveshaft. I have only had a few things done by shops for me on my restomod (driveshaft & exhaust) but I am glad I did. I totally understand where you are coming from and you know what you will do w/ your rig better than anyone. Hope this helps.

Nick
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom