How hard is it to swap a clutch on 3B? (1 Viewer)

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Just wondering how hard it is to change a clutch on a 3B.

I've read the service manual and the two issues seem to be dropping the gearbox and transfer case safely, and making sure the clutch is properly aligned.

Any other pointers would be appreciated.
 
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Not overly hard, the trans and transfer is heavy. The bellhousing and trans all come off as one piece.

Expect it to take you about 6 hours if you're working at home.

~Johh
 
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Whats it in a 42 or 60?
6 hours if everything goes smooth but we all know things go wrong then it become 2 weekends.
I would say a 42 is easier still a 2 :banana:job
 
Last edited:
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Its in a 42.

A friend suggested it might be easier to pull the engine, but not so sure about that.
 

crushers

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not a biggie,
you can drop with or without belhousing attached. sometimes it is easier to serate the belhousing off the tranny, it is only 4 bolts.
i made up an adapter that fit on the floor jack and it is a one person job. record time was 2 hours. usually a full day job
and if it is your first time then count on 2 weekends since you need to get the flywheel turned.
make sure you replace the rear engine seal and pilot bearing at the same time.
 
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Pulling the engine is an option but a troublesome option cause you have to disconect wires undo the exhaust ,disconnect the rad hoses,remove the fan or radiator,motor mounts ,unhook the fuel line which you will have to prime the air out to restart.
If you were removing the fenders and bib for a resto or repaint then pulling the motor would be the easiest option since everything is accessable without fenders and bib in the way
 

joekatana

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Its in a 42.

A friend suggested it might be easier to pull the engine, but not so sure about that.
It all depends on your tools and skills,if you have a engine hoist but no decent transmission jack I would chose the engine removal.At the same time you can renew your oil,cooling liquid and all your filters and the belts and your safe for a while + it's easier to inspect evrything this way.However if you can remove the transmission maybe with the help from a friend(one guy controls the jack the other guides everything safely out) it will definetly be faster.

Anyway I used both ways already ,depending on the car and the location I was working.
 
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QUOTE -- you need to get the flywheel turned. make sure you replace the rear engine seal and pilot bearing at the same time.

How important is resurfacing the flywheel? Never done that so far with other vehicles and had no problems. You got me curious...
 
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My first clutch job was on my BJ42. No transmission jack, no experience... took 1 day. Not a big deal, really.

I lowered the transmission with a cargo strap through the tunnel cover in the cab. There are pics of my setup on here somewhere.
 
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I saved myself a bunch of money and bought my first sockets and wrenches to do the clutch in the 60 years ago. Hardedst part was getting the upper bell housing bolts. Have fun!
 

crushers

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if it is bright and shiney then you need to get it turned.
if it is dull and still have the original machining surface marks then you don't

but why take the chance?

you need GRIP and a shiny surface does not provide the grip that a dull rough surface does.
QUOTE -- you need to get the flywheel turned. make sure you replace the rear engine seal and pilot bearing at the same time.

How important is resurfacing the flywheel? Never done that so far with other vehicles and had no problems. You got me curious...
 

crushers

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:lol:
when i first read this it said (to me) blah blah 60 years ago. your one old fart there kid.
:lol:

then i reread it :eek:
:flipoff2:
I saved myself a bunch of money and bought my first sockets and wrenches to do the clutch in the 60 years ago. Hardedst part was getting the upper bell housing bolts. Have fun!
 
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If the surface is smooth and flat (no grooving) without any major dark hot spots with fine heat cracks, you may choose to just scuff it with emory cloth and leave it. Wet the emory with solvent or wash the flywheel first to prevent breathing the dust, it's a carcinogen. Should be fairly obvious if the flywheel is in dire need of surfacing though. If you've had the clutch judder or been driving around with a slipping clutch (both result/causing heat damage), then have it machined.

I asked around when I swapped out my clutch a few months ago, but didn't get a definitive answer, does anyone have specs for whether a B/3B flywheel should be flat, or stepped? Not 'you can if you want', or 'some people do', but yes/no as recommended by Toyota? The only specs we found were from exedy, and they spec no step for B diesels using diaphragm clutch except the 13BT. My flywheel was flat and in good shape, so I left it alone. It would be good to see some actual machining specs though.
 
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Cariboo BC
 
 
clutch job

I just did a clutch job. Took it to my local machine shop (lordco machine) they have done 2 3B fly wheels for me now. They said they pulled up the specs and it is flat. I would machine it no matter what when installing a new clutch, whats 40$ when the new clutch is 700?
 
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if it is bright and shiney then you need to get it turned.
if it is dull and still have the original machining surface marks then you don't

but why take the chance?

you need GRIP and a shiny surface does not provide the grip that a dull rough surface does.
Many manufacturers no longer recommend machining a flywheel if there is no evidence of surface imperfections on the flywheel face.

As a repair shop, we machine virtually all flywheels, because usually the disc is worn down to the rivets or has been slipping and has damaged the face or the flywheel.

Scuffing with some machinist's cloth (cloth backed sandpaper) is a great thing to do if there are no visible problems and the clutch was not chattering or rough to engage. A shiny surface does not necessarily mean a slippery one - think about how brakes work.

I can not think of one good reason to take out the engine vs. the transmission. You're making a 4 - 6 hour job into a much longer job by doing so.

The top bellhousing bolts can be reached from above (sometimes) or below with a really long socket extension - like 24" to 30" long. Very much worth owning long extensions if you do this kind of work.


~John
 
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$700 for a clutch -thats the figure I've been quoted from a couple of workshops!

I'm thinking I might take it to a mechanic. While I feel comfortable in doing the clutch, its the other stuff that inevitably snaps, twists, burrs or is uncooperative that has me concerned. Especially given the weight of it all

And as I would be doing it in my parents garage, they get a bit upset if the cruiser stays in there for to long.

Thanks for all the responses, its been a big help.
 

crushers

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$700 for a clutch job?
not a friggin chance, they will get you in the door then add a few more hundred on.
the last clutch job quoted by Stampede Toyota was $1800 in a 40 series.

John,
if you are replacing a clutch plate then there is a reason. to take a coupel thou off a flywheel is a no brainer especially since usually the truck is on its first replace in 300K.

each to their own, me, it is $60 well spent for piece of mind.
 
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I forgot to mention that I was in Australia, maybe that's why theres a difference in price expectation. The mechanics here might also have it down to a fine art, the second place I called was in the process of doing a clutch on a BJ42.

The price for the Exedy clutch kit was $340- something I think retail. I'd imagine a trade price would be cheaper still.
 

cruisedeisel

Toyota's for life
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yupp, engine hoist through passenger door opening, take transmission hump off and let the hydrolics to the lifting. if you take one of the bolts off on the t-case side you an pretty much balance the whole works off one bolt, chained to the cherry picker, maybe it was two??? 500 bucks for a clutch here. you put in
 

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