How far forward can my diff go ?

[Hulsty]

Does anyone know or have a rough idea on how far forward I can move the diff forward in my FJ73 middy without running into troubles with the steering arms hitting each other or stuff like that ?


Spring lengths are from the the rear pin to diff and then from diff to the front shackle.

Stock 550mm - 590 mm

Current 565mm - 645mm


So as it sits my front diff is 15mm forward and I have no troubles. Was thinking of flipping springs around effectivly moving diff 95mm forward (just under 4''). I can redrill the perches to move it back so its only about 60mm forward. I know i'll also need to do something with the front drivehaft any ideas? or just a spacer?

cheers

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

Crushers posted numbers on this some time ago. I'll see what I can dig up.

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

The idea of running the drag link to the back side of the tie rod is cool but the passenger side tie rod end would have to be tapered from the back side instead of the front side. Maybe source rod ends from a RHD truck.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/171456-fitting-35s-bj74.html

Edit...Sorry dude, just realized you had already posted in this one.

 

[Hulsty]

thanks for that mate, did realise what was in that thread! Car is RHD already.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Does anyone know or have a rough idea on how far forward I can move the diff forward in my FJ73 middy without running into troubles with the steering arms hitting each other or stuff like that ?

I think its 25mm with little or no mods.Thats usually enough for 35s

 

[Hulsty]

hmmm maybe I will re drill my perches then and move it back as far as I can when I flip my springs. Idea being to get a better approach angle thats all

 

[TwoThirtyDirty]

I'm thinking that in the other post referenced, Gudeano meant that he runs the drag link to the back side of the tie rod (ie between the tie rod and axle housing) but the only way I can see this could happen is if you ran tie rod ends from a LHD truck (since yours is RHD) to reverse the direction of the tapered hole. Then again, the drag link could bind on the diff cover or the drag link end could bind on the knuckle arm. Might be worth a couple hours of experimenting if you could mock it up without laying down cash.

 

[OILERSrule]

Ya looked into this earlier too. As per Crushers he moved the diff 25mm forward by redrilling the leaf spring locating hole. I have the OME and was told this is extreamly hard to do. I am thinking of using a small plare with a pin for the old hole and a hole for the new location. I only have 33's right now so it isn't really nessacary yet. But 35's much easier to squeez and looks centered in the wheel well. He also stated I think that you don't need to change any linkage as long as you don't go more than 25mm. I am wondering though if this plate idea would work and also it seems like this would change around some angles and such. Is this correct and if so is it enough to make a difference in preformance or more wear/ chance of breaking.

 

[roscoFJ73]

This troopy has had the front diff moved forward 25mm although I dont think it mentions it in the interview but it does in the magazine.
YouTube - 4WD Action - 114 Custom Toyota Troop Carrier

 

[Malahki]

I think its 25mm with little or no mods.Thats usually enough for 35s

How much lift does it take to go with the axle relocation to get the 35's under. I currently have 2" shackle lift, is that enough?

 

[roscoFJ73]

How much lift does it take to go with the axle relocation to get the 35's under. I currently have 2" shackle lift, is that enough?

I havent done it. I got the info off somone who had and they had at least a 2" suspension lift.

 

[Hulsty]

I havent done it. I got the info off somone who had and they had at least a 2" suspension lift.

lift doesnt really matter, should be able to fit them without lift, need correct offset and room in guards, lift doesnt help when you flex to bumpstops. I'm going 35''s with a sagged 2'' lift, but using a 60series rear end for 35mm extra width each side for clearance.