How do you get the Vaccum advance pot out of the dizzy???? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 23, 2006
Threads
267
Messages
1,856
Location
Charlotte North Carolina
I looked at the diagrams online, read up on some searches and removed the set screw and this little bastard is not just sliding out like i expected it to. Am i missing a step or something simple?

This is on my 77 fj40 and after checking the mechanical advance it appears that the dizzy is stuck. The rotor will not turn either direction. I am needing to remove this so i can remove the points plate and free it up inside if possible.

Its the original dizzy to my truck i believe. its got points

Frustration is setting in.

OTher question, My rig is not desmogged, should i just bail on this dizzy and get a better or just a new one?
 
I know you posted a picture previously, but can't find it. Can you repost the close up picture of your distributor innards?
 
Interested in this also. Found his previous picture:

attachment.php
 
Heres where i am at now. I still cannot get the diaphragm off. Dont know why. I actually got it to turn a slight bit but then it froze again. Does it just slide out or screw out? I used some PB blaster in there overnight to see if that would help. not much luck
Now the actual dizzy is loosely spinning and i dont know why but i also dont see where to tighten it up.
Sorry, i am truly a 1 banana mechanic trying to learn my way thru this.
am i at a point where i should say screw it and get a new one?
P1010406.jpg
 
disassembly

Alright, here you go. Had to get out to my own 77, and make sure I got it right for you...I took my vacuum diaphram away from the plate, and took some pictures for you. Seems I'm not a very good communicator, but pictures sure help...

Remove the screw from the advance diaphram (I know...you've done that)

Give it a jiggle to loosen it from the port it's sticking through. Don't worry about the nuts on there, they will go through the port.

Gently pull the diaphram assembly out of the distributor cup. The plate will rotate as the circlip is still attached to the post on the plate.

Keep pulling until the circlip is free of the post on the plate.

Turn the circlip up 90 degrees to allow clearance for the plate to be lifted out.

Remove the screws at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions to allow the plate to be removed.

When returning the screws and clips at 12 and 6, look at the small piece of metal that is the clip...If I recall...they have a small recess on one side to allow the plate to freely move under the clips. You don't want friction from those clips holding the plate after you have freed it up and got it moving again!!

Hope this helps!
IMG_1745.JPG
IMG_1746.JPG
IMG_1747.JPG
 
nice pics! that was perfect! I got it. Turns out that i was battling with 30 years of rust holding the pot in place. PB blaster in there for 3 days finally broke it loose and i was able to turn the diaphragm and slide it out. Got the plate off now and i am looking at the insides. I still cannot turn the rotor more than about 1/8" at most Clockwise. What do i need to free up?
P1010415.jpg
P1010416.jpg
 
Look at the bottom of the plate...there is a ring of bearings under it. get some oil in there and start freeing it up. Might take a while after 30 years of build up. Looks like the weights in your second picture are a bit messed up. Make sure those move freely, and the springs work to retract them.

You aren't trying to free up your rotor, but the bearings under your plate, and the weights to get the vacuum advance working...
 
Last edited:
I may be mistaken, but it looks like you dist. is still installed in the engine. If thats the case you shouldn't be able to rotate the rotor because the bottom of it is engaged with the oil pump. have someone crank the engine and you watch to see if the rotor turns, which I'm sure it will. Either way, I would loosen the dist. hold down clamp and remove the dist. so much easier to work on it on the bench. My $.02. good luck! When you get ready to install the dist. check back in on this site. It is easy but CRITICAL to do it properly.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, why is this dissy in the engine?

It should be wrapped in a rag and clamped in the vise for service.

Test the vac advancer, see if it still holds vacuum and retracts. If it does, then proceed w/ servicing per FSM. If vac advancer is dead, then seek out a different dissy, 'cause there are no service parts available for the 75-80 dissy.
 
Wouldn't a new side plate and a FJ60 Dizzy be the way to go ?
 
This originally started as this thread

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/480865-fuel-delivery-carb-issue-thoughts-opinions.html

By keeping the dizzy in the engine, he doesn't have to worry about timing, or stabbing the distributor. He is a self admitted :banana: mechanic, who's pockets want a reprieve from buying new parts. After all...I think learning and working on our rigs is enhanced when we can actually repair, or restore a part instead of replacing everything. Saving a buck doesn't hurt either.

Kudos to 77cruiser...
 
Thanks for all your help guys. I ended up pulling the dizzy out and as someone mentioned above i did not get it back in correctly and now i cannot get the cruiser to fire up. I have points gapped correctly i got it back where i believed that it was but it will not turn over. Sputters for a second but essentially nothing.

Any ideas to share?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom