ppc
M Go Blue
Yes, missed that it was a 91 model.
How do you get stuck in 4WD? and other questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wildheffalump
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Well guys I got around to checking the fuses. They're both intact. I'll keep you posted on what I'm able to check next. Thanks for the input!
Have you drove it on gravel. Take it on a loose gravel road and shift it in and out of 4 low a couple of time while going forward and in reverse while making the tires spin. Sometimes they dont like to unlock on the pavement.
Try disconnecting battery and listening for the CDL to do something (hopefully unlock). If you get anywhere with that, it points to relays/wiring issue where the locker is getting constant 'lock' signal. Need to be in neutral and key on for this, wheels off the ground preferably but not mandatory. Just need the load off the drive train.
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm not sure where the nearest gravel or dirt road is that I can try that. if i find one I certainly will.
That will be next in my tests. I'm not sure we're going to get good results, but i'm certainly game to try it.
Assuming that the Center diff or the locking mechanism itself is bad. how expensive is the repair? and how difficult is it to do yourself?
Only in my opinion of course...If all was working fine before the transplant, it's safe to assume all is good still. I would continue hunting a wiring/relay issue until you can rule it out completely. There are plenty of hidden places where wiring can get pinched/bared/severed. As it appears to be constantly locked(or unresponsive to switch input), search for threads having to do with 4wd/CDL unresponsive/won't engage. At some point, a wiring diagram will appear. Use that to find the grounds and high-level inputs (12volts) to the locker system.
Otherwise, I second the poster who mentioned pulling the fuse (30A) for the locker when you daily, then replace the fuse when you're wheeling. Or did you say it remained locked when the fuse was pulled? Which seems to point more to a mechanical issue, but could still be electrical (short).
ppc
M Go Blue
Disconnecting power will do nothing to the locker position. Locking or unlocking requires the locker motor to run.
- Thread starter
- #28
At this point...I'm pretty sure I've got an electrical problem...maybe in the dashboard.
After checking my fuses, I noticed one of them appeared to be popped. I replaced a 30amp J-case fuse.
But my mirrors don't work and my dash lights are out, and the AC light doesn't come on either. So I'm figuring wiring or a relay is major hosed. Rat chews up here are a serious problem. I'll keep you guys posted on what I find next!
Thanks again
After checking my fuses, I noticed one of them appeared to be popped. I replaced a 30amp J-case fuse.
But my mirrors don't work and my dash lights are out, and the AC light doesn't come on either. So I'm figuring wiring or a relay is major hosed. Rat chews up here are a serious problem. I'll keep you guys posted on what I find next!
Thanks again
No way on god's green earth is that block worth putting the time and money into fixing. Strip it and send it.
Do you have a FSM?
- Thread starter
- #30
No way on God's green earth, eh? Torfab was asking 4k for a 3FE they had laying around. It took me some diligent searching to find my replacement motor. As time goes on I realize I don't have enough time for a project like rebuilding it.
How would you guys sell?
And yeah I've got a copy of FSM from online.
No. If it's got a hole in it from a rod knocking a hole in the cast iron block, then, hell no!
Remove the usable parts and keep those, but the block is a boat anchor. You don't weld a chunk of a block back in and expect it to live.
- Thread starter
- #32
Sorry, been pulled away.
To recap, the 4wD problem was fixed..I took it to a better mechanic. He saw that the mechanic I used for the swap had apparently torn the harness above the transfer case. He re-wired it. The dash issues were another story. He had to trace contact points and found a failed fitting that had created enough resistance to not pass electricity.
He did good, but charged me top rate
Either way... she's running good enough to get.me through winter...Zombie Apocalypse aside.
Thank you guys so much for contributing.
To recap, the 4wD problem was fixed..I took it to a better mechanic. He saw that the mechanic I used for the swap had apparently torn the harness above the transfer case. He re-wired it. The dash issues were another story. He had to trace contact points and found a failed fitting that had created enough resistance to not pass electricity.
He did good, but charged me top rate
Either way... she's running good enough to get.me through winter...Zombie Apocalypse aside.
Thank you guys so much for contributing.
A cheep bad mechanic, well coast you more then a good top rate one. JMHOSorry, been pulled away.
To recap, the 4wD problem was fixed..I took it to a better mechanic. He saw that the mechanic I used for the swap had apparently torn the harness above the transfer case. He re-wired it. The dash issues were another story. He had to trace contact points and found a failed fitting that had created enough resistance to not pass electricity.
He did good, but charged me top rate
Either way... she's running good enough to get.me through winter...Zombie Apocalypse aside.
Thank you guys so much for contributing.
