How do you check a tranny and transfer case to see if they are good when buying used if they are on the ground not in the truck?
How do you check a tranny and transfer case when buying used? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter JollyGreen
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dgangle
total rice
look at condition, fluid levels and color/smell of fluid, leaks. turn input/output shafts in different gears in both hi/lo range. This is about as good as you could do under the circumstances. And price accordingly. Without seeing it operate or a guaranty, risk comes at a price. Unless it is the only one in existance/need one yesterday/competition for it, then you loose bargaining power.
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*Drive it like you stole it? 
Seriously though..Shift without the vehicle running, and when going into 3rd or 4th, listen for a thunk or clunk indicating the countershaft is loose.
Start it up, take it for a drive and get it warmed up, as it'll shift a bit off when cold. It's normal to have it hard to go into first sometimes, same with reverse. Put it into first let the clutch up slowly and let it catch up. Same for reverse, put partially into first, just don't release the clutch fully, depress the clutch and it should shift easily into reverse without any light grinding.
*It seems that all Toyota Truck transmissions do this bit.
Put the e-brake on, shift into neutral and see if there's any noise like a pilot bearing going out. Now, depress the clutch and shift the case into 4-hi and release the clutch. There should be no excess effort needed and only a little noise from the countershaft slowing down.
Depress the clutch again and go into 4-lo, same stuff to listen for.
Now shift the case into neutral, there will be some light noise, if it seems excessive it can be bearing noise.
Put the case into 4-hi or 4-lo (*if on wet pavement or a dirt road), or even 2-hi and take it for a spin. Then when around a dirt road/whatever, or even a wet road and put it into 4wd and listen for the (*if equipped) ADD hubs to lock, or lock the hubs and they should engage within 5-7 feet. *Never run 4wd on dry pavement, the 50/50 split will tear up stuff quickly if not experienced in driving in that condition.
Unlock the hubs, then shift back into 4-hi and do the same. Then go into 2-hi, stop and unlock the hubs (*if manual hubs disengage them) roll in reverse and the hubs should disengage.
Park in a good spot and rotate the front driveshafts, listening and feeling for grinding or binding, turn the wheels to full lock left, but don't force/hold it there, get out and do the same and repeat at full lock right.
The shafts should not make any noise or feel odd. They should also not shift in or out of the hub much, if so it may be jst needing a new thrust clip and shim, but there's more to it if that comes up.
**I'm surprised Wristy or 2ndGenToyotaFan didn't jump all over this subject, is this in the FAQ's, if not it should be.
Seriously though..Shift without the vehicle running, and when going into 3rd or 4th, listen for a thunk or clunk indicating the countershaft is loose.
Start it up, take it for a drive and get it warmed up, as it'll shift a bit off when cold. It's normal to have it hard to go into first sometimes, same with reverse. Put it into first let the clutch up slowly and let it catch up. Same for reverse, put partially into first, just don't release the clutch fully, depress the clutch and it should shift easily into reverse without any light grinding.
*It seems that all Toyota Truck transmissions do this bit.
Put the e-brake on, shift into neutral and see if there's any noise like a pilot bearing going out. Now, depress the clutch and shift the case into 4-hi and release the clutch. There should be no excess effort needed and only a little noise from the countershaft slowing down.
Depress the clutch again and go into 4-lo, same stuff to listen for.
Now shift the case into neutral, there will be some light noise, if it seems excessive it can be bearing noise.
Put the case into 4-hi or 4-lo (*if on wet pavement or a dirt road), or even 2-hi and take it for a spin. Then when around a dirt road/whatever, or even a wet road and put it into 4wd and listen for the (*if equipped) ADD hubs to lock, or lock the hubs and they should engage within 5-7 feet. *Never run 4wd on dry pavement, the 50/50 split will tear up stuff quickly if not experienced in driving in that condition.
Unlock the hubs, then shift back into 4-hi and do the same. Then go into 2-hi, stop and unlock the hubs (*if manual hubs disengage them) roll in reverse and the hubs should disengage.
Park in a good spot and rotate the front driveshafts, listening and feeling for grinding or binding, turn the wheels to full lock left, but don't force/hold it there, get out and do the same and repeat at full lock right.
The shafts should not make any noise or feel odd. They should also not shift in or out of the hub much, if so it may be jst needing a new thrust clip and shim, but there's more to it if that comes up.
**I'm surprised Wristy or 2ndGenToyotaFan didn't jump all over this subject, is this in the FAQ's, if not it should be.
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dgangle
total rice
good info in great detail but did you miss the part about him saying the parts were sitting on the ground & not installed?
D-OH! 
Grab the output flanges and see if there is any slack. Should be none. The smelling of the fluid and all of that listed above is wise.
I got an old t case i am thinking about upgrade with the UD and the 3 to 1 but when i took it apart from the transmission i noticed the shafts when i removed the drive shafts are hard to turn and it sometimes makes some clunking noises i failed to check if it was in neutral or hi or low but it was weird to spin no slack tho is that normal?
