How do these shop prices look? (1 Viewer)

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You just bought a 17 year old vehicle. It's generally not advisable to dump a whole bunch of money into an old used vehicle right away, and all at once. You haven't had enough time with it to get a feel for owning it, and to know if there are other problems yet to be uncovered. All of this could change your decision making in terms of throwing around your time and money. In general you will not get the money you put into it back out when you sell.

IMO, only fix the immediate and/or safety related items (a leaking radiator would qualify, perhaps the brakes depending on thickness remaining). Then drive it for a while, then re-evaluate.
I agree with you but many of these items are required for MD state inspection to get tags. Muffler, windshield, radiator, brakes, sway bar links.
 
Yeah. And front brake disks automatically kind of mean front bearing service

I will triple-warn you on windshield. Aftermarket is OK but regular 1hr install is NOT Ok. Needs to be done properly with rivets, etc. If you don't have original glass right now - it's probably time to see what is going on and probably treat for rust. If it's not original and bad install (most likely) - it will have to be fixed/undone also.
 
Yeah. And front brake disks automatically kind of mean front bearing service

I will triple-warn you on windshield. Aftermarket is OK but regular 1hr install is NOT Ok. Needs to be done properly with rivets, etc. If you don't have original glass right now - it's probably time to see what is going on and probably treat for rust. If it's not original and bad install (most likely) - it will have to be fixed/undone also.
Thanks ill talk to the glass shop
 
I agree with you but many of these items are required for MD state inspection to get tags. Muffler, windshield, radiator, brakes, sway bar links.

wow. And I thought California is the worst :-D
 
Thanks for the reply. I did quote some of these jobs with OTRAMM and they were about the same price. I would prefer OTRAMM to do the work but they are 2 hrs away and my radiator is leaking bad at the moment. I'm in Baltimore.
Also in the Baltimore area. If you find a good shop let me know - I have yet to find somewhere reasonable or good for my LC, and am largely doing work myself or with my mechanic neighbor (thank god for good neighbors!).

I can absolutely point you away from Automotive Concepts for glass, despite the local Toyota dealer using them for repair work. PGW is good glass, though.

I had an inspection done recently on mine, and was quoted $3k by that shop for lower and upper control arms, front pads and rotors, and switching out the D console light. MD inspection is stupid and I have done all of this on my own for about $500 in parts, largely OEM. I was close to tagging historic when I got that initial bill…
 
Also in the Baltimore area. If you find a good shop let me know - I have yet to find somewhere reasonable or good for my LC, and am largely doing work myself or with my mechanic neighbor (thank god for good neighbors!).

I can absolutely point you away from Automotive Concepts for glass, despite the local Toyota dealer using them for repair work. PGW is good glass, though.

I had an inspection done recently on mine, and was quoted $3k by that shop for lower and upper control arms, front pads and rotors, and switching out the D console light. MD inspection is stupid and I have done all of this on my own for about $500 in parts, largely OEM. I was close to tagging historic when I got that initial bill…
I almost bought a 2004 LX so I could tag it historic. I'm still new to this community but I will let you know if I find a good local LC shop!
 
Here's the Chantilly VA glass shop. I called them recently and they know their stuff, going to have them redo the windshield job my usual glass guy totally buggered.

 
For reference on the windshield. I (insurance actually) has paid $1400 for OEM glass install at a non-dealer (and not fancy) shop on my rig…twice.
How did you get your insurance to pay for OEM? It looks like my insurer, Geico would only pay for aftermarket.
 
How did you get your insurance to pay for OEM? It looks like my insurer, Geico would only pay for aftermarket.
Not sure really. Told the glass shop OEM and they forwarded the bill to USAA which paid it. All covered under comprehensive in CA for my $100 deductible.
 
2007 LX470 218k miles

Just bought the truck and took it to a shop to get some work done. I'm new to LCs and have experience with basic car maintenance - oil changes, brake pads, gear oil nothing too involved. Should I do some of these items myself? Thanks for your advice.

Radiator replacement with all hoses, clamps, fittings $1,716

Repack front wheel bearings and replacing front brake pads and rotors. Will need front pads and rotors as well as wheel seals $1,398

Driver parking brake lever seized. Recommend replacing driver side parking brake lever and associated components $570

REMOVE AND REPLACE BOTH FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR END LINKS $551

Windshield replacement $590

Replace muffler $550

replacing valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals as well as spark plugs $1,334

Will need timing belt/water pump kit, drive belt, coolant, crankshaft seal $1,585

Differential and transfer case service 4WD $389

Transmission Service $216
I think this is a great opportunity to break this list down and encourage you to take these on yourself (excluding windshield).

$1,716 - You could buy an OEM Radiator ,EVERY OEM water hose ,clamp, Toyota coolant, New FSM, 2 new front drive shafts with diff seals.
$1,398 - You can buy 6 Ton Jack Stands, 3 Ton Jack, Brass punch set, Bearing Race tool set, Bucket of grease, OEM Hubs, OEM Bearings, OEM Rotors/Pads.
$570 - All new OEM Parking Brake set, Brake tools, Nice Battery Powered Impact with metric impact socket set.
$551 - All new OEM front rear sway bar links, bushings, hardware, New 1/4 inch inch pound torque wrench, New 3/8 inch torque wrench, New 1/2 inch torque wrench.
$1,334 - All new OEM Gaskets, FIPG, Hardware, OEM Coils, Spark Plugs, New 1/4 Socket Set, High Quality 3/8 inch battery powered ratchet.
$1,585 - All new Aisin Timing Belt Kit w/water pump, All New Aisin Fan Pully Bracket, All new Aisin Fan Clutch, OEM Alternator, New Roll Away Tool Box.
$389 - New Mobil One Synthetic Fluids for all, New 3/8 drive socket set.
$216 - 3 Gallons of ATF fluid, New Drain Pan, All new OEM Transmission cooler hoses (ALL).

Probably have some $ left over. Good luck!
 
I think this is a great opportunity to break this list down and encourage you to take these on yourself (excluding windshield).

$1,716 - You could buy an OEM Radiator ,EVERY OEM water hose ,clamp, Toyota coolant, New FSM, 2 new front drive shafts with diff seals.
$1,398 - You can buy 6 Ton Jack Stands, 3 Ton Jack, Brass punch set, Bearing Race tool set, Bucket of grease, OEM Hubs, OEM Bearings, OEM Rotors/Pads.
$570 - All new OEM Parking Brake set, Brake tools, Nice Battery Powered Impact with metric impact socket set.
$551 - All new OEM front rear sway bar links, bushings, hardware, New 1/4 inch inch pound torque wrench, New 3/8 inch torque wrench, New 1/2 inch torque wrench.
$1,334 - All new OEM Gaskets, FIPG, Hardware, OEM Coils, Spark Plugs, New 1/4 Socket Set, High Quality 3/8 inch battery powered ratchet.
$1,585 - All new Aisin Timing Belt Kit w/water pump, All New Aisin Fan Pully Bracket, All new Aisin Fan Clutch, OEM Alternator, New Roll Away Tool Box.
$389 - New Mobil One Synthetic Fluids for all, New 3/8 drive socket set.
$216 - 3 Gallons of ATF fluid, New Drain Pan, All new OEM Transmission cooler hoses (ALL).

Probably have some $ left over. Good luck!
Thank you for the encouraging words! I have decided to take on a few of these jobs to learn about the truck. I'm going to do the sway bar links and brakes. Time to start reading up.
 
Thank you for the encouraging words! I have decided to take on a few of these jobs to learn about the truck. I'm going to do the sway bar links and brakes. Time to start reading up.
Once you complete the first job you will realize how easy these vehicles are to work on. They were built with maintenance and trail repair in mind.
 
That's good to hear. Excited to dig in.
You got this! Also now that people are following this thread you can post up questions here and get some quick responses although you could probably find answers after many many minutes of searching and reading through different threads related to each specific task.
 
You got this! Also now that people are following this thread you can post up questions here and get some quick responses although you could probably find answers after many many minutes of searching and reading through different threads related to each specific task.
Good idea! I'll post some updates and questions. I really appreciate all the advice so far.
 
General comment for these repair cost threads:

I'm a former extreme DIYer. Just because you *can* do something DIY doesn't mean you should. If you've got a busy family life and make decent money, paying up to and beyond $175/hour for quality mechanic work is a great option. That switch flipped 180 for me a few years ago. At some point the time and energy outside the work week is worth a lot. Of course, this all hinges on finding a very good shop.

The mechanic may be gouging him if the truck is rusty. I would double my rates for sure if someone brought me a rusty vehicle to work on
I don't think that would be gouging - more like pricing the work according to an increased likelihood of problems.
How did you get your insurance to pay for OEM? It looks like my insurer, Geico would only pay for aftermarket.
With All-State their policy clearly states that any components shall be OEM if requested.

My OEM glass re-do was $4k total. Insurance (Allstate) covered all new glass, trim, hardware, labor, BUT only covered 50% of the body work needed to fix the previous botched glass install (screws were used and then failed so NEW screw holes were created and all needed to be welded back shut and then re-drilled, treated, painted, etc...). I thought that was fair enough. The damage was done prior to their coverage so them paying anything was generous.
 
General comment for these repair cost threads:

I'm a former extreme DIYer. Just because you *can* do something DIY doesn't mean you should. If you've got a busy family life and make decent money, paying up to and beyond $175/hour for quality mechanic work is a great option. That switch flipped 180 for me a few years ago. At some point the time and energy outside the work week is worth a lot. Of course, this all hinges on finding a very good shop.


I don't think that would be gouging - more like pricing the work according to an increased likelihood of problems.

With All-State their policy clearly states that any components shall be OEM if requested.

My OEM glass re-do was $4k total. Insurance (Allstate) covered all new glass, trim, hardware, labor, BUT only covered 50% of the body work needed to fix the previous botched glass install (screws were used and then failed so NEW screw holes were created and all needed to be welded back shut and then re-drilled, treated, painted, etc...). I thought that was fair enough. The damage was done prior to their coverage so them paying anything was generous.
I'm going to have the shop do the more complex jobs while I learn more about the truck. Good to know about your insurance. I'll read my Geico policy to see if they'll pay for OEM.
 

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