how do I restore window trim? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SL404
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A couple options:
1. Just buy new. They are not very expensive and we're lucky to have them available.
2. Sand and paint. Use ~200 then 400 grit, followed by a general use black spray paint or VHT Epoxy maybe.
I bought a new one for my driver's door. I plan to buy new for all the others as I apply PPF to the doors. That trim is cheap and the new ones last a decade or more. Painting will be a much less durable solution.
1. Just buy new. They are not very expensive and we're lucky to have them available.
2. Sand and paint. Use ~200 then 400 grit, followed by a general use black spray paint or VHT Epoxy maybe.
I bought a new one for my driver's door. I plan to buy new for all the others as I apply PPF to the doors. That trim is cheap and the new ones last a decade or more. Painting will be a much less durable solution.
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Do they just pop off with a trim removal tool or what? I need to replace mine as well and also do something about all the vertical door trim. My passenger side front door vertical trim is basically rusting
There's a single screw on the interior and then it just pops off with some careful force. You can see the screw exposed when you open the door.
If you plan to re-use the trim be VERY careful removing it. I tried to be careful and still bent it. Once bent, it's hard to get it perfectly straight again. That's actually what led to me buying new. Once I installed the new one, I decided I'll likely buy all of them. It looks real nice when it's 100% new and straight.
I have pry tools, but didn't use any. You can grab it with your hand, but perhaps that's what led to mine bending.
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thank you for your insight into this. I see the front doors have a screw, but not the back doors, and I don't know about the trunk piece. Would I just pry those off?There's a single screw on the interior and then it just pops off with some careful force. You can see the screw exposed when you open the door.
If you plan to re-use the trim be VERY careful removing it. I tried to be careful and still bent it. Once bent, it's hard to get it perfectly straight again. That's actually what led to me buying new. Once I installed the new one, I decided I'll likely buy all of them. It looks real nice when it's 100% new and straight.
I have pry tools, but didn't use any. You can grab it with your hand, but perhaps that's what led to mine bending.
@suprarx7nut where did you find these for a reasonable price? Partsouq.com?
A few years ago, I was able to bring these back with a buffer and a cutting compound. But, fast forward a lot of years and miles, and they look like the ones @SL404 posted... and the buffer just isn't enough.
A few years ago, I was able to bring these back with a buffer and a cutting compound. But, fast forward a lot of years and miles, and they look like the ones @SL404 posted... and the buffer just isn't enough.
I went with partsouq, but Mcgeorge was similar.
The same molding on my supra was like $150 and long discontinued, so under $50 shipped had me jumping for joy.
Thanks @suprarx7nut ! PartSouq was much cheaper than McGeorge (today) - difference of $80 for the four piece. Of course, maybe McGeorge would've been closer after shipping. Holy ^$@# PartSouq charges a bunch for shipping. Or, I'm just spoiled by Amazon 
I mean... they ship it around the globe in less than a week. I think for what they offer the pricing is quite low, honestly. I've ordered a few parts from a domestic dealer (McGeorge) and Partsouq twice now. Both times Partsouq arrived days before the domestic order.Thanks @suprarx7nut ! PartSouq was much cheaper than McGeorge (today) - difference of $80 for the four piece. Of course, maybe McGeorge would've been closer after shipping. Holy ^$@# PartSouq charges a bunch for shipping. Or, I'm just spoiled by Amazon
That is a good point. Just the fact that these parts are A. available and B. that cheap is awesome. I swear I saw a price north of $250 - before shipping or tax - a couple years ago... clearly not from PartSouq or McGeorge.
I've said it a few times lately, but the recent advent of Partsouq, McGeorge, EB Toyota and other online discount genuine vendors has really shone a light on pricing habits of typical US dealers and it's not pretty. We can now see how much we're paying the dealerships for the "privilege" of buying parts from them (but of course not stocked by them) and it's a shockingly high percentage on most parts. For a non-value add middleman they tend to mark everything up to the moon.
I think a part of the pricing strategy for brick and mortar dealers is honestly to push customers into brand new vehicles. "You see, sir/ma'am, you really don't want to perform these basic service items on this 10 year old vehicle. Just look at the cost of those parts!! Wouldn't you rather put that money towards an brand new car with modern safety features for you and your little ones? We have great financing that can get you out of here with just your trade in as downpayment and we'll take care of all those nasty repair services on that old junker."
and include a trade in, financing agreement, extended warranty, and service plan.
I'm actually surprised they don't offer financing plans in the parts department. I read this week that the average new car loan in the U.S. is 71 months - the AVERAGE!
I will always remember when I was 21 and helped a co-worker car shop. They knew I was a car guy and I was happy to help test drive fun cars.
My co-worker cared about literally nothing at all related to the finances except what the note (monthly payment) would be. Didn't care about the total price of the car, interest rates, fees, insurance, registration, maintenance, nothing. Simply, what was the note? First question when we walked up to a dealer was "you guys do long term loans? 6 years? 7 years? 8? Longer? I want the longest you have. Worse yet, him mom was the one financing this ordeal and she was the same. Didn't care what car it was or how much it cost. She just asked him what the note was and if it was under their threshold. These people were not poor and not rich. Typical working class American income situation. Not hurting for money, but certainly not enough to actually buy any of the cars they were looking at.
That was a pivotal moment for me in realizing that basic financial sense is completely lost on people that otherwise seem intelligent.
We test drove an M3, Jeep Wrangler, G35, Mercedes something or other. Nothing that made any more financial sense for a 21 year old than his obsession over the note, haha.
Some people's children...
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If you think that's bad wait until you find out about the new boat market
Especially for wakeboard boats, it's astronomical the amount of debt and time people will lock themselves into for a 2021 Mastercraft or similarGetting back on topic -- has anyone ever touched up these (metal?) pieces that trim out the windows? I only circled the vertical pieces but it applies to the arching pieces that follow the roof line down to the A pillar as well. You can obviously see the difference in sheen between the drivers and passengers piece, and it gets much worse when you go to the passengers side of the truck where it is starting to look like rust is forming
View attachment 2596956
EDIT: And once again attachments aren't working for me...awesome. Hopefully you can understand what I'm talking about
That's been happening to me a lot lately. I have to attach/copy the picture, then click the "insert" button on the little thumbnail below. That seems to work.If you think that's bad wait until you find out about the new boat market
Getting back on topic -- has anyone ever touched up these (metal?) pieces that trim out the windows? I only circled the vertical pieces but it applies to the arching pieces that follow the roof line down to the A pillar as well. You can obviously see the difference in sheen between the drivers and passengers piece, and it gets much worse when you go to the passengers side of the truck where it is starting to look like rust is forming
View attachment 2596956
EDIT: And once again attachments aren't working for me...awesome. Hopefully you can understand what I'm talking about
I can't quite tell what you're asking, but I have redone a few sets of trim in different ways. My go to paint is VHT epoxy black (gloss).
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Nice, that worked. I think those are supposed to be gloss black. I'd use my go to of VHT Epoxy black.
Those panels respond very well to a buffer - start with a mid- to final-level compound; like one step before final polish.
This stuff is absolutely amazing for any oxidation on cars, boats, trim, hell Ive even used on my rear mud flaps on the old 100 series and it restored it completely. If done correctly this stuff lasts for years.
Watch the YouTube videos to get the process down, but your patience will be well rewarded.
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