I searched around but didn't find a cut-and-dry tutorial. I'm pretty intimidated when it comes to electrical work so how do I go about replacing them?
How do I replace the fusible links? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rfakhrai
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TAKE PHOTOS BEFORE YOU REMOVE/DISCONNECT anything, even though the whole thing is a pretty trivial job. This will help if you forget what you did mid-swap.
1) If you are worried about shorting anything with your spanner/wrench, cover the Battery -ve post/cables with a heavy rag.
2) Unbolt/remove the fusible links from the battery +ve post end and from the connector and little black box (self evident). Replace with new links.
Vehicle will likely idle/run a bit strange for a few start/stop cycles if the ECU forgets various settings until it relearns.
cheers,
george.
1) If you are worried about shorting anything with your spanner/wrench, cover the Battery -ve post/cables with a heavy rag.
2) Unbolt/remove the fusible links from the battery +ve post end and from the connector and little black box (self evident). Replace with new links.
Vehicle will likely idle/run a bit strange for a few start/stop cycles if the ECU forgets various settings until it relearns.
cheers,
george.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
The Fuseable links are one piece crimped together. One side goes to the battery, which you just unbolt, and the other side is inside the little black box labeled something like AM which is behind the battery box. Once you open it you are likely to break the holding tab. If you break it it's no big deal, just zip tie it.
You will be resetting the ECU so may drive crappy for about 40 miles to relearn.
You will be resetting the ECU so may drive crappy for about 40 miles to relearn.
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Thanks for the quick advice. Looks really straight forward now that I know what I'm looking at.
Always disconnect the negative (-) connector on the battery first, before doing any work on the electrical system.
Then, be super careful disconnecting the nuts and bolts on the unit; the electrical connections are relatively fragile and will take "zero" torquing. Make sure you have a wrench opposite the fastener you are removing and that it is stable relative to your turning wrench.
Also use plenty of penetrating fluid to help reduce the amount of force you need.
Then, be super careful disconnecting the nuts and bolts on the unit; the electrical connections are relatively fragile and will take "zero" torquing. Make sure you have a wrench opposite the fastener you are removing and that it is stable relative to your turning wrench.
Also use plenty of penetrating fluid to help reduce the amount of force you need.
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bloc
SILVER Star
The part is set up with all three wires "keyed" so that it is very difficult to install incorrectly. One wire has a plastic plug (I had to get a small screwdriver to pry the tab for that), and the other two have ring terminals with different size bolt holes. It'll be obvious when you get it apart.
And as someone mentioned.. "zero torque". Not literally.. but it takes VERY little to hold these things together firmly.
I'll argue against the penetrating oil. I wouldn't want any petrochemicals that aren't absolutely necessary getting on the permanent parts of my wiring harness. As long as everything isn't rusted up I just hold the black box firmly with a gloved hand and see how much torque it takes to remove the two nuts first. Only use penetrating oil near/on wiring when you don't have any other options.
Also, these things are cheap. Might as well order another to keep in your spares kit.
And as someone mentioned.. "zero torque". Not literally.. but it takes VERY little to hold these things together firmly.
I'll argue against the penetrating oil. I wouldn't want any petrochemicals that aren't absolutely necessary getting on the permanent parts of my wiring harness. As long as everything isn't rusted up I just hold the black box firmly with a gloved hand and see how much torque it takes to remove the two nuts first. Only use penetrating oil near/on wiring when you don't have any other options.
Also, these things are cheap. Might as well order another to keep in your spares kit.
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You are correct. Pry best to keep penetrating oils from this.
Just a clarification, when I say "zero torqueing" I'm not talking about the nut/bolt, I'm talking about the metal junction that attaches it to the battery terminal. If you fail to stabilize that with an off hand wrench, it will break.
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bloc
SILVER Star
Good point, and an important one for someone not used to this stuff.
Are there any tricks for getting the nuts off in the black junction box? I started replacing my fusible links today but could not get the larger (12mm) nut off...Finally got the smaller (10mm) off after using WD-40. Would Pb Blaster help? Very hard to hold this small object that is unattached and get enough leverage.
Also, when I opened it, saw this dollop of what looks like old grease. Are you guys using dielectric grease around the connections after you reconnect and before closing the box? For anyone having trouble opening the box like I was, use a flathead screwdriver in the notch on the opposite side of what is clearly the hinge.
Also, when I opened it, saw this dollop of what looks like old grease. Are you guys using dielectric grease around the connections after you reconnect and before closing the box? For anyone having trouble opening the box like I was, use a flathead screwdriver in the notch on the opposite side of what is clearly the hinge.
Just grab the outside o the box with a pair of large channel locks to hold it.
I cleaned the terminals up and used a dollop of fresh grease.
I also used a cable tie around the box to the starter wire to keep the box from floating free.
I cleaned the terminals up and used a dollop of fresh grease.
I also used a cable tie around the box to the starter wire to keep the box from floating free.
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There's a lot to be said to using an impact gun/driver when trying to undo stuck fasteners.
cheers,
george.
cheers,
george.
I agree with George....... my 20volt impact hits it quick enough to break it loose by just holding it with my hand...... good luck!
use a longer wench 
Thanks all - I ended up lightly spraying it with Liquid Wrench, waiting, and then going at it again. Of course I broke the cover off the junction box while holding it...but that made it easier to hold and I got the second nut off 
This thing was really on there, channel locks were gouging the plastic and thought it would shatter. Of course I didn't think impact driver til I read here, and it reminds me I need to buy a socket adapter asap, but in the end the penetrating oil helped.
In my my haste to install FL + a new battery, I didn't thoroughly clean the junction box or grease the threads to make it easier in the future. I know I shouldn't use brake cleaner - guessing some sort of electrical contact cleaner? Also, would Sil-Glyde be fine for the threads?
Tomorrow I'll zip tie on the 'door' to the junction box though it doesn't look like it does much with the big holes on every side. That will truly complete the look!
This thing was really on there, channel locks were gouging the plastic and thought it would shatter. Of course I didn't think impact driver til I read here, and it reminds me I need to buy a socket adapter asap, but in the end the penetrating oil helped.In my my haste to install FL + a new battery, I didn't thoroughly clean the junction box or grease the threads to make it easier in the future. I know I shouldn't use brake cleaner - guessing some sort of electrical contact cleaner? Also, would Sil-Glyde be fine for the threads?
Tomorrow I'll zip tie on the 'door' to the junction box though it doesn't look like it does much with the big holes on every side. That will truly complete the look!
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