How do I know if the 80 im looking at has locking diff? (1 Viewer)

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As mentioned in the "cruiser v. durango" post, I'm contemplating picking up a lx450. The guy told me it had locking diffs when I asked him, but when pressed, he admited he didnt' know. I got a copy of the invoice sheet, and it has the following listed:
*second gear start switch for slippery conditions
*fill time four wheel drive whith two speed transfer case
*viscous coupling center diff with auto locking for low transfer position.

Now I'm not sure what all that means. What is the interpretation?
 
If you see it in person, look on the left side of the steering column. There will be a switch there, should say DIFF LOCK.
 
Welcome Dryflyelk (or should I call you mister Caddis? ;) ) -

The list you supplied doesn't include locking diffs but maybe that's listed elsewhere?

second gear start - is a button that forces the auto to start in 2nd. Used in very low traction conditions like ice/snow.

full time 4 wheel with 2 speed xfer, - all 4 wheels drive all the time with a low range for off-road.

the viscous coupler - is the device that controls how much power is transfered to the front or rear wheels. When it's locked it supplies the same power to front and rear (again used off road).

----

The diff locks are seperate and is controlled by a dial on the dash to the left hand side of the steering wheel.

Good luck and let us know if you need more info.

Riley
 
Differential locks will be listed on the option side of the Monrony with a price off to the side.
 
Don't just assume it has lockers because the switch is there. Try it out and make sure everything works. There are at least 2 80's around that have switches without lockers. One was misrepresented by an ahole in TX and one in MD. Could me more, but those I specifically know about.
 
What I was checking (all is best) :

- switch next to the mirror switch, that says Diff Lock
- 294 code on the VIN tag in the trans category - not 292
- some gizmos attached to the pumpkins with electric wires coming out
- option listed on invoice (rarely available)

E

edit: oh yes, you also need to check the A/C temperature with a meter... :D
 
Probably an easy way to test if the switch is real without crawling under the truck would be to turn the switch on. Even when in high range the diff lights will flash on the dash. The odds of the ahole wiring up a fake switch to the dash lights is pretty slim. That would definitely be someone with way too much time on their hand.

Of crouse E9999's methods are probably more definitive.
 
dang, forgot to mention the lights....
of course, was checking those too! :D
E
 
DryFlyElk,

This switch will be on the dash just to the left of the steering wheel on US FZJ80's. If you don't have the option there will be a black blank in this spot. As mentioned above, you need to check the other things mentioned to be 100% certain.

(Sorry for the dust on Pristine... she was due for the weekly detailing after that pic was taken.)

Diff_Lock_Switch.jpeg


-B-
 
Very helpful. Thank you very much.
If it should be listed as an option on the sheet, I don't think it has it :(
It seems to be a pretty good truck in every other way,though. I guess the question is how much I really want lockers. Maybe I'll holdout.
 
You were looking on the wrong side of the "option sheet." Those are all standard on every US 80 series; Lexus & Toyota. The right side of the option sheet is where you will find diff locks.

Sticker.jpeg


-B-
 
hold out for lockers, I looked for several months, I saw some beautiful trucks going for good prices but no lockers, all the ones w/lockers were in bad shape and expensive, I think this is because cream puffs with lockers don't sit around long, but I eventually found one :)

living in GA I did not want a northern truck because of the rust, the difference is dramatic, and there are a lot down here that started their lives up north, if you are already in the rust belt this may be less of a concern
 
[quote author=RavenTai link=board=2;threadid=13041;start=msg120671#msg120671 date=1079204735]
living in GA I did not want a northern truck because of the rust, the difference is dramatic, and there are a lot down here that started their lives up north, if you are already in the rust belt this may be less of a concern
[/quote]

I robbed mine FROM Georgia. :D :flipoff2:
 
Partial thread hyjack but better then starting a new one, :D

I finally got out into some low traction sand/mud to give the lockers some test time. The stock LTX tires are lame for this application but I just add to play with the lockers.

Man are they great! The front locks real quick and the rear take a little more effort. I think this is explained because you need to rotate the tires on the 2 different sides in order to match up the gear/dog thingy. This is mush easier to do with the front tires (by turning the wheel one way or the other). Turning has less effect on the rear.

Do others find that the front lock faster/easier? OR should I pull my rear locker apart and clean and service?

I got to pull out a couple of teens with their Ford and Chev pickup with mud tires but no lockers. :D

Very cool engaging & disengaging them with so little effort. ;)

I love em, now just need some real tires. LTX offroad are :banana:

Riley
 
Riley,

The front locks faster for two reasons. As you mentioned the wheels can be turned to increase the differential wheel speeds and the splines on the dog clutch are much finer than the rear.

Start with the center locked and the vehicle stationary. crank the steering all the way to one side and switch the rear lock on. Let off on the brake and allow the vehicle to roll forward. It will likely lock the rear in just a few feet of travel.
 
mine is similar rear is much slower to engage than front, but sometimes it will go right in I guess when they are already lined up, but many who have taken them apart have noticed moisture and corrosion inside, also the grease they used drys out and gets crusty, I think it is a good Idea to rebuild it if you have the skills and time.

if you disassemble the rear actuator be careful there is a got-ya in there, I just got done helping Trailcarnage's assemble his rear locker this evening, definitely make sure you note the amount of shaft sticking out, because there are no marks noting how the output shaft meshes with the small gear inside it can be assembled on one of several teeth , it is a pain in the ass to figure out later and the manual does not go into disassembly only removal and installation

I would go one step further to be sure, after removing the actuator from the axle remove the 3 screws for the motor cover first, monitor the switch pins with an ohm meter (if you don't have the wiring manual I can get you the wire colors) , rotate the motor (stop when you feel resistance of the spring and go the other way) until each contact is broken at the exact spot that the switch goes open note the exact length of the output shaft and write it down, now you will know the exact relationship of the output shaft and gear

I plan to do this soon and will make a write up with the measurements
 
Raven brings up an interesting point:

If you do open up your actuators be damn careful. There are NO, repeat, NO components serviced by Toyota. If you lose or break something, you are on your own.

The "non-serviceability" of the actuators is why the FSM makes no mention of disassembly.

D-
 
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=13041;start=msg120835#msg120835 date=1079236039]
Raven brings up an interesting point:

If you do open up your actuators be damn careful. There are NO, repeat, NO components serviced by Toyota. If you lose or break something, you are on your own.

The "non-serviceability" of the actuators is why the FSM makes no mention of disassembly.

D-
[/quote]

ouch, his o-rings were pretty crusty, I was planing to give you a call and order o-rigs before hand for mine, guess not :doh: , we greased his heavily to help their sealing power, I guess you could also RTV/FIPG seal them, I think this is where the moisture is getting in, on this motor housing there was a lot of rust on the steel cover and corrosion on the aluminum housing near the O-rings all of the working parts in his were OK the corrosion just got the housing parts

Slee was not so luck his was full of water and had bad rot
 
This stuff is handy for O-rings:
 
Wow, that new camera takes very nice close ups. I must be doing something wrong because my closeups are always blurry.

-B-
 

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