How can I remove slack from pedal / accelerator cable? (1 Viewer)

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Austin, TX
1973 FJ40 with the Aisan carb. The accelerator cable housing is 25" and the cable itself measures 31". There is too much play in the pedal right now where I can't get full throttle on the carb. I feel like I'm missing something really simple ... or maybe I need a shorter cable?

What are the best options for removing slack in the pedal cable?

As you can see, I barely have the cable threaded on - if I push it more to the left it increases the slack. I can't thread it further.
1680359610734.png

At the pedal there is so much play - about 1.5" before I get any resistance. This is after I added that bolt to push it out just a bit. Should I bend the pedal closer to or more than 90*?
1680360095166.png
 
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Trim the cable at the pedal and use one of these to secure the end. Worked for me, had to switch to a cable after the P.O. of my cruiser ruined the stock linkage.

23771_1-B.jpg


Edit - when using these, torque down tightly. If in doubt use a little loctite on the threads. Definitely not an OEM solution but it worked for me.
 
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Trim the cable at the pedal and use one of these to secure the end. Worked for me, had to switch to a cable after the P.O. of my cruiser ruined the stock linkage.

View attachment 3288102
I hate using these but it’s a great quick option, especially if you decide to solder in the fitting
 
1973 FJ40 with the Aisan carb. The accelerator cable housing is 25" and the cable itself measures 31". There is too much play in the pedal right now where I can't get full throttle on the carb. I feel like I'm missing something really simple ... or maybe I need a shorter cable?

What are the best options for removing slack in the pedal cable?

As you can see, I barely have the cable threaded on - if I push it more to the left it increases the slack. I can't thread it further.
View attachment 3287913
At the pedal there is so much play - about 1.5" before I get any resistance. This is after I added that bolt to push it out just a bit. Should I bend the pedal closer to or more than 90*?
View attachment 3287916
How about a different pic further back showing your carb and cable bracket. Doesn’t look right from the pic.
 
I
Hasn't failed me in over 2 decades of use and it can be readjusted if needed. Easily hidden on the pedal too.
I’ve had 2 fail me pretty quickly. My vote is solder them in after you get the proper length. They are a b*tch if you lose one on the road.
 
Those cable stops are typically sold in a multi-pack. I just carry several spares in my truck kit, and if it pops or slides off, I can fix at the roadside. I used one with my EFI conversion, so I have no 'factory cable' option.
 
1973 FJ40 with the Aisan carb. The accelerator cable housing is 25" and the cable itself measures 31". There is too much play in the pedal right now where I can't get full throttle on the carb. I feel like I'm missing something really simple ... or maybe I need a shorter cable?

What are the best options for removing slack in the pedal cable?

As you can see, I barely have the cable threaded on - if I push it more to the left it increases the slack. I can't thread it further.
View attachment 3287913
At the pedal there is so much play - about 1.5" before I get any resistance. This is after I added that bolt to push it out just a bit. Should I bend the pedal closer to or more than 90*?
View attachment 3287916

.

instead of that choppy approach , that will fail sooner rather then later as the springend high carbon infused steel unravels faster as it goes..

perhaps a more OEM Period Correct Japan. Spec. NOS solution is safer and better time spent not for the foreseeable future ?

.


.

CAEA1244-4897-489C-8ADA-75494E7934DF_2048x.jpg



.

4C340873-4A04-4292-B791-60259A9C23FF_2048x.jpg


.

FEEBE728-8820-4D6C-976F-FC7B9403D364_2048x.jpg
 
.

instead of that choppy approach , that will fail sooner rather then later as the springend high carbon infused steel unravels faster as it goes..

perhaps a more OEM Period Correct Japan. Spec. NOS solution is safer and better time spent not for the foreseeable future ?

.


.

CAEA1244-4897-489C-8ADA-75494E7934DF_2048x.jpg



.

4C340873-4A04-4292-B791-60259A9C23FF_2048x.jpg


.

FEEBE728-8820-4D6C-976F-FC7B9403D364_2048x.jpg
Can you confirm the length of this? The one I have in there looks identical but I need to take 1.5" off.
 
How about a different pic further back showing your carb and cable bracket. Doesn’t look right from the pic.
@Skreddy here are a few pics with the cable bracket - is this what you're looking for?

1680617612236.png



I've actually never removed the carb before - a shop (allegedly) rebuilt it a year ago - but I think I'm finally going to remove it and clean it up as much as possible. I have the rebuild kit on the shelf so I'll replace what I can. Is it as simple as removing the 4 bolts and the hose connections? I have pinheads YT videos on standby and will watch once I have it off.

1680617832087.png
 
@Skreddy here are a few pics with the cable bracket - is this what you're looking for?

View attachment 3290589


I've actually never removed the carb before - a shop (allegedly) rebuilt it a year ago - but I think I'm finally going to remove it and clean it up as much as possible. I have the rebuild kit on the shelf so I'll replace what I can. Is it as simple as removing the 4 bolts and the hose connections? I have pinheads YT videos on standby and will watch once I have it off.

View attachment 3290595
Yes, those 4 nuts and any hoses and vacuum lines.


I have never seen a linkage/bracket setup that looks like that. Hard to tell exactly from those pics but unless it’s a 73 only thing or something, I don’t believe you have a factory setup. Almost looks like an attempt to make a cable linkage work for a mechanical linkage carb?
 
Yes, those 4 nuts and any hoses and vacuum lines.


I have never seen a linkage/bracket setup that looks like that. Hard to tell exactly from those pics but unless it’s a 73 only thing or something, I don’t believe you have a factory setup. Almost looks like an attempt to make a cable linkage work for a mechanical linkage carb?
thanks - I have the carb off and am in the process of cleaning it up. Not sure about the linkage? By now it seems so many setups are different and have slight changes through the years. The OEM cable ends are correct meaning there is the threaded portion that connects to the carb / throttle linkage. It just seems 1.5" short for mine for some reason. And there seems to be a tad bit of interference between the dash throttle cable and the pedal linkage as they connect up to the carb linkage.

So not sure - but I'm hoping to get it buttoned up this week and back up and running Saturday.

I know I'm off the original topic now, but the part of the carb I can't figure out is what I have highlighted below. I can't see how to remove that stopper to clean it up in there.
1680702518027.png



But I did just find this so I'll give it a whirl later today: Carb Discharge Weight & Spring Removal - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-discharge-weight-spring-removal.902847/
 
I still don’t think your cable is connected properly and that’s why it’s too short.
In your pic, the cable is pulling on a horizontal plane forward/backward at a 90 degree angle to the throttle shaft. The cable should come out the firewall, swoop up and toward the passenger side then curve back and down to the drivers side into the bracket. When the pedal is pressed the cable moves left/right to open the throttle.
Here’s a pic from a google search showing the stock setup. May not be exactly the same as yours but should be close.
1680705420140.jpeg
 
I still don’t think your cable is connected properly and that’s why it’s too short.
In your pic, the cable is pulling on a horizontal plane forward/backward at a 90 degree angle to the throttle shaft. The cable should come out the firewall, swoop up and toward the passenger side then curve back and down to the drivers side into the bracket. When the pedal is pressed the cable moves left/right to open the throttle.
Here’s a pic from a google search showing the stock setup. May not be exactly the same as yours but should be close.
View attachment 3291456
thanks for this pic -- that setup is very different than mine. Maybe a different year or maybe I have a strange setup. This willl be a good reference point. Thanks!
 
Can you confirm the length of this? The one I have in there looks identical but I need to take 1.5" off.


define length ?

from what exact point to what exact point

i send these out for bell crank linkage set -up all the time


no issues ..
 
define length ?

from what exact point to what exact point

i send these out for bell crank linkage set -up all the time


no issues ..
end to end - barrel to barrel -- I ordered one so I'll measure and see. I thought the one I had in place was OEM but either it wasn't or the linkage I have is different. THANKS!
 
closing the loop on this pedal accelerator question -- thanks @ToyotaMatt for the part. It worked great. The cable is 31" end to end. Same as the old one I had. I took the carb off -- rebuilt it -- and realized the linkages weren't allowing the throttle to get back to the initial starting point. That is one of many problems wiht the linkages. Once I cleared the linkages the cable is now positioned in the middle of the threads so I have room to lengthen or shorten as I'd expect to fine tune. So this problem is solved - but continuing to dive down the rabbit hole of the carb adjustments.
 

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