My light came on recently on my 92 FJ80. Autozone here says they can only get codes from American cars. I ask y'all because my old 1995 M3 would let me do a trick with the gas pedal to get the code. I did search but came up with nothing helpful. thanks
Landpimp
Yes you can read the codes. YOu need to jump 2 of the terminals on the diagnostic plug under the hood(passanger side firewall) then you count the check light flashes and compare them to the codes in the FSM. I don't have my manual handy to tell you which 2 terminals to jump(us a paper clip)
John H
John H
cruiserdan
SupportingVendor Emeritus
Moderator
T1 and TE1 at the datalink connector under the hood.
- Thread starter
- #4
Can anybody be more specific?
I am an idiot. Can anyone tell me what to do and what to look for? If I come back with the "number of flashes" can somebody interpret that?
I am an idiot. Can anyone tell me what to do and what to look for? If I come back with the "number of flashes" can somebody interpret that?
JasonH
Follow up question...
How do you retrieve the codes on a 95? My manual says that the paperclip trick only works through 94, and Autozone here says they can only scan 96 and up with OBDII. I understood the 95 had OBDII, but it doesn't have the port under the steering wheel.
How do you retrieve the codes on a 95? My manual says that the paperclip trick only works through 94, and Autozone here says they can only scan 96 and up with OBDII. I understood the 95 had OBDII, but it doesn't have the port under the steering wheel.
Gumby
Supamod
s-Moderator
95 has both 'cause they are the coolest. 8)
Autozone is wrong. I pull codes with the scan tool all of the time. In fact, now I have a new one - low catalyst efficiency. Some bone head banged a bunch of rocks against the cats and then dunked 'em in the water. Now they're all rattly inside.
Autozone is wrong. I pull codes with the scan tool all of the time. In fact, now I have a new one - low catalyst efficiency. Some bone head banged a bunch of rocks against the cats and then dunked 'em in the water. Now they're all rattly inside.
Beowulf
Jason,
Open the fuse panel on the lower portion of the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. You'll see the OBD-II connector.
-B-
Open the fuse panel on the lower portion of the dash just to the left of the steering wheel. You'll see the OBD-II connector.
-B-
JasonH
Excellent! Thanks for the info. 
???I'm an idiot ... if I want to turn the codes off should I pull the EF
I fuse with the engine running ...engine off,key on ... or what?
thanks
I fuse with the engine running ...engine off,key on ... or what?
thanks
cruiserdan
SupportingVendor Emeritus
Moderator
engine off, key off. (It won't run without the fuse) 
Beowulf
Bill,
With the engine off and the key removed, raise the bonnet and locate the fuse box just behind the battery. Locate the EFI fuse and remove it for about 30 seconds. Put it back in, close the bonnet, and start the vehicle.
The MIL should be cleared and you will likely have a rough running vehicle with an abnormal idle for a while. It could take several start/stop cycles for the engine to smooth out. Be assured that it will, as the ECU is relearning and remapping values.
The alternative is to remove the negative terminal on the battery. If you go this route then be sure that you know your radio code (if set) before you disconnect the battery.
-B-
With the engine off and the key removed, raise the bonnet and locate the fuse box just behind the battery. Locate the EFI fuse and remove it for about 30 seconds. Put it back in, close the bonnet, and start the vehicle.
The MIL should be cleared and you will likely have a rough running vehicle with an abnormal idle for a while. It could take several start/stop cycles for the engine to smooth out. Be assured that it will, as the ECU is relearning and remapping values.
The alternative is to remove the negative terminal on the battery. If you go this route then be sure that you know your radio code (if set) before you disconnect the battery.
-B-
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