micruz60
Unleaded Regular
Make sure to get the red Adidas, they are faster. . .
Yeah, need to see more than just cosmetic rust, the frame and axles, what's the condition of engine/mileage?
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Make sure to get the red Adidas, they are faster. . .
Yeah, need to see more than just cosmetic rust, the frame and axles, what's the condition of engine/mileage?
Not sure how easily you can get 60's in the UK but the Shillings needed to fix that rust would likely far exceed the price for a cleaner truck, unless you have the time and skill to do the weld repair yourself.
cps432
SILVER Star
Fitzee will teach you a lot. This guy lives in Newfoundland and has been repairing rust buckets for 30-40 years with super basic tools. Never seen anyone do magic quite like Fitz. If you want to know what goes into body work and all the thought and time it takes to get it right, watch a few of his videos. Then decide if you’re willing to pay someone like him or do it yourself.
Depends how bad it really is. Rust repair rarely runs in the shillings range. Usually it’s better to budget in gold bars for proper cut out, weld in, prep, and paint repairs.
if you want a low worry knock around rig then it’s much easier to cob repairs and accept it as ugly vs an investment truck you want to look good and have value.
- Thread starter
- #27
cps432
SILVER Star
190? That’s just broken in and ready to rock! Well, if it’s been sitting it will need attention, but 190 is not crazy for a landcruiser. I’m at 279,036 and it runs awesome and it was super clean inside when I changed all my gaskets a while back. If it’s been taken care of it’s gonna keep driving. You could buy that truck for $3000 and drive the hell out of it as is for the next 5-10 years and it would be totally worth it.
It's really not that bad. 3K investment, some new tires and your rocking. Learn as you go and dont worry about the rust, thats character
cps432
SILVER Star
There is rust there under the paint. It’s probably been resprayed at some point but it’s hard to tell without seeing it in person. You can use some products to retard the rust. Woolwax is a popular choice.
If you’re looking for a truck that will drive over just about anything and you want to go camping and be outside all the time with it then this thing is probably your ticket. If you want a $30,000 garage princess then find a truck that was used by grandma as a grocery go getter.
If you’re not mechanically inclined then you should plan on becoming so. And have a mechaninc look at it and give you a straight answer. These trucks have problems. They’re tough but they aren’t Gods like a lot of us pretend they are. Whether you get a really nice truck or a basher you’re going to have issues down the road. It’s a machine. Don’t forget that.
cps432
SILVER Star
Here are some pictures of my rust. The hole in the wheel well leaks water into the cabin which flows down to the door jams. It needs to be fixed to keep the truck from completely disintegrating but it’s not terrible right now. The fender has gotten worse over the years. There are bubbles here and there popping up. The frame has surface rust but is solid. There’s rust under the door cards. I’m not afraid of this rust. And for what it’s worth I live in this truck.
Old Nick
GOLD Star
Here are some pics of my truck... just began to take the flap wheel to it today (getting ready to weld in new patch panels)... had rust bubbles in all of the likely spots and I'd guessed that what I'd find would be rough. It was... TONS of bondo and fiberglass.
@cdwsn I've had my truck for nearly 7 years, and spent all of my fun money and more on getting it mechanically sound. We don't have a proper garage, so the body has been exposed to the elements all that time. The weather has taken its toll. It sure runs, great, but now, it's time to get the old girl looking nice. She's my daily driver.
Anyway, all of this it to say, that my "walk away" above may have been too hasty. If, the truck runs well, and if the frame is sound, heck, man... you might just want to take a risk. It all just depends on how risk adverse you are!
Here's what I am just starting to fix:
sheet metal can be a pain or fun ... just need the right tools and time to do it right.
cps432
SILVER Star
I’ve never delved into it but I feel that this is true. I’m a woodworker and I’ve experienced it both ways. With good tools wood is fun. With bad tools wood is a splinter waiting to happen.
I attempted to do a wheel well repair. The mid welding was not that good. The shape of the steel was almost right on. If you take a metal class learn how to shape, bend, hammer sheet metal. 16 guage is what is used on LC. Experct some serios down time if doing a big job. Got a body man who knows the egnlish wheel? they are your fiend if they can do the work.
I get the feeling you will find a cleaner one out there... I have seen a few pop up for not much more cost than that that seemed cleaner at first glance. that seems like a lot of rust to deal with remotely
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check some of these options. Need better pics, but seem cleaner than the one you are looking at
g-man
SILVER Star
I'd pass on that truck. Miss matched tires, miss matched wheels, crappy aftermarket upholstery and door cards, Crappy paint job with lots of bondo and hidden rust. Negligent care to the outside of the vehicle makes me assume they neglected the motor a well. Yes all of it can be fixed but your going to be in for over $10k in repairs easily and that's if you do the labor yourself. Do yourself a favor and add $10k to your budget and buy a truck that needs 10 % repairs and not 90% repairs.
