Hot off the presses! 3/16" thick rear fender protection panels (1 Viewer)

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Edit: The latest versions are run on a $600k laser cutter and the vendor does the counter sunk holes if you want.

My design, cut on a CNC plasma cutter table. I've got a counter sink bit and matching flat-head hex machine screws for it. Still some adjusting to do. I might bring it down and redrill that lowest hole there on the right. I had him leave the lowest hole on the left, so I could move it around. There's not much metal behind it.

If you look at the pics at the end of my 'after' thread, you can see that the flares move the wheel opening rearwards about 2" to match how the axle is sitting on fj62 springs.

The basic shape of the flare opening is traced off my other fj40, which is uncut.

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Actually, since I got them done at a fab shop, I'm pretty sure they can just make copies. $250 a pair, maybe $275 with hardware and shipping? They are just flat though, so not as cool as some other flares.
 
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I did a similar thing a couple of years back but like your idea of using the original opening for a template. I ended up using the UB40 flares as a template on mine with intentions of building a tube fender off of that platform at some point. Had some free 3/16 x 3" pieces and matched the original cut out, used 1/4" rivets to mount them though.
Before was with 33s (more like 31.5s), after with axle moved back 1.5" and 35s. Going to have to trim a little on the rear edge now.
Awesome ingenuity my friend...... What are your plans on color, match to body color or contrasting? I couldn't decide so I went contrasting for now. :wrench:
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Nicely done. That could be a good replacement for those of us with PO cut rear quarters and fiberglass flares that want to return to more stock wheel openings without welding in a patch panel or new quarter panel.
 
Actually, since I got them done at a fab shop, I'm pretty sure they can just make copies. $250 a pair, maybe $275 with hardware and shipping? They are just flat though, so not as cool as some other flares.

What they are also nice for is a platform for all metal or tube flares. Now to figure out a height and width that everyone will be happy with
 
What are your plans on color, match to body color or contrasting?

Matching. I don't want them to stand out.

That could be a good replacement for those of us with PO cut rear quarters and fiberglass flares that want to return to more stock wheel openings without welding in a patch panel or new quarter panel.

This is exactly where this idea came from. My openings were cut out with crappy flares when I bought it.

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What they are also nice for is a platform for all metal or tube flares. Now to figure out a height and width that everyone will be happy with

This exact shape would be the price above, around $250. Any other size or shape will add at least another hundred for the programming time for the CNC.
 
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Could I trouble you for details about the rear springs?
 
Could I trouble you for details about the rear springs?

fj62 rears. SOR has the bushings to fit them (barely) into the stock fj40 front hangers. The rear hangers were removed, flipped, trimmed and welded back on. The rear shackles are really long, 3" over stock. It is able to use the whole of 12" of shock travel. I was originally going to remove a leaf, but it doesn't need it, and this way it has a lot of capacity in the rear. When I load it down it doesn't sag out so much.
 
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That looks fantastic.
 
Mine came yesterday. Here is a pic of the mess I am going to cover.

🤮

You should make the effort to drill another hole in your spring pads and move the axle back a little. If you were really motivated to do the driveshaft work you could get some new springs and move it 2-3".
 
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You should make the effort to drill another hole in your spring pads and move the axle back a little. If you were really motivated to do the driveshaft work you could get some new springs and move it 2-3".
I was actually planning to get a 4 inch lift (probably Skyjacker). I read where you drilled a hole about an inch forward and am considering that as well. I do not want to go through moving perches or hangers.
I will likely then be getting a retubed DS and / or a longer slip joint. (This is going to be a wheeler).
What springs did you have in mind?
 

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