I can imagine that upon first install the engine will see a rich mixture as it thinks the air is denser. However after a few drive cycles and the input from the O2 sensors I'd imagine it would lean back out.
In that case what about using a pot ? Keeping tweaking the ohms up ... Orrr , if you don't give a rats ass about your stereo presets , you could wire your ignition to do a battery disconect upon turning off .
I look at this sort of stuff as playing with fire. Even the SC can bring the engine to the brink of disaster, and that's a Toyota approved mod. If you want more low end grunt and better acceleration go mechanical, re-gear. Besides, the higher RPM help with cooling and take some stress off the Tranny, T-case and engine.
I'm no match for a SC or Turbo 80 but at least I'm not a 3FE either
and if one looks at the big picture, since this device's effect -if any- is unlikely to increase the efficiency of the engine, any increase in HP would be accompanied by a decrease in mpg. So the question is, are you ever out of power when you are truly flooring it? If not, why does one need this mod?
(of course, those of us with 8 cyls don't have to worry about such problems... BWAHAHAHA!!!! )
It does not work!!! I purchased one of these for a truck thinking that it made sense, blah, blah... It came with a .10 resistor and directions which essentially states to remove the O2 sensor from the air intake and replace the sensor with this resistor and tape. Did absolutely nothing (you really should be able to notice 10-15 HP's) As a matter of fact, my truck ran worse e.g. idle was rough. For apples to apples, the truck was not a Toyota but the principle is the same regardless of the vehicle. If you are really interested in this mod, go to Radio Shack (that is where this guy gets his resistors) and spend .10 and then try it.
I can't get ebay at work, but what the discussion sounds like is the old resistor in the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor. If so, it does a little more on some systems than just richen up the mixture. It also will allow more ignition advance as cool air is less likely to detonate.
Your O2 sensor will compensate as will the knock sensor in normal driving. In non-feedback conditions like WOT, it might make a minor difference.
If all it is doing is advancing your timing, why don't you manually advance your timing. Several folks have done so and are happy with the results. Cost: 0.
Adding more fuel does not necessarily mean more power - unless you were running lean to begin with. Has this guy done any scientific analysis on each vehicle - or has he just made a sweeping generalization? ...I think the latter.
He says that this emulates getting a 'piggy back' device. Empirical data from the members of this board suggest that these devices do nothing for this application.
Finally, if adding a resistor would add 20% to the engines power - why wouldn't Toyota have done this instead of starting with the I-force V8 in 98? The I-force is smooth, but it does not produce 20% more power than the 1FZFE - nowhere near it.
[quote author=Gumby link=board=2;threadid=9861;start=msg87541#msg87541 date=1073659371]
I can't get ebay at work, but what the discussion sounds like is the old resistor in the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor. If so, it does a little more on some systems than just richen up the mixture.
Hey it was only 2 dollars for supposedly 20hp. And i think you are sadly mistaken about me having to much money on my hands. i'm 17 and have a part time job at an ice cream stand when its warm. thats it.
That your stated age and your job did not mesh very well with the vehicles listed in your sig line. As your sig line did not state that the vehicles were "family owned" he could only assume that they had to be yours...........