Hoping to buy a LC200 in the next few days. A few questions..

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sleepycruiser said:
How much would air pumps be? Sonar message?

Sellers have to be careful. For those of you that don’t have a BlueDriver, get one. Bluetooth OBD and it will tel you how many miles ago the CEL codes were cleared.
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Unlikely it’s the pumps - probably the valve that gets corroded. Pumps are easy to disassemble and service (they suck the worthless foam “filter” in). Parts are available from partsouq for cheap. Whoever said check KDSS was on the money
 
Leaky2014 said:
Knowing what I know, I would never buy a 200 without checking these connections, if he won't let you check, I'd pass.
This is common, just read some on the threads on here, at least once a week a new thread starts with this issue, either leaking windshield or leaking sunroof.
It's not the end of the world when it happens, if you catch it early, and are able to do the repairs yourself.
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This is common? Of all the 200 drivers I know personally who have never even heard of this issue, and a daily review of this forum, I can’t say this common at all.
 
sleepycruiser said:
Thanks. Haha...a little confused on what to do now. $29,500 seems like a good deal, but I don't want to dump a bunch of money into it right when I get it.
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Probably any LC will need at least some $ right when you get it. Different people have different risk levels and different opinions on what “a bunch of money” is. For me, I’d pass on this one, unless the causes of those codes have been addressed. I do suspect those codes are at least one reason it’s for sale, so I’m skeptical they’re ok now.
 
Sandroad said:
Probably any LC will need at least some $ right when you get it. Different people have different risk levels and different opinions on what “a bunch of money” is. For me, I’d pass on this one, unless the causes of those codes have been addressed. I do suspect those codes are at least one reason it’s for sale, so I’m skeptical they’re ok now.
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The guy selling it bought it from another dealer 2 months ago. He buys and sells LCs so I imagine he got a really good deal on it.
 
I'd pass.
 
sleepycruiser said:
Thanks. I did the bypass on a 2006 Sequoia I think...is that the bypass that uses the block plates to make it where the vehicle doesn't sound like an airplane taking off? And I ran wires as well when I did that...it has been 12 years since I did that I think.

If he reset the ECU is that something that would show up on a scan? My scanner (BlueDriver) will tell you how many miles ago the CEL was cleared.

So based on what you are saying this is probably all due to the same issue....the SaIS, which makes the 4wd lights turn on. Would that also cause the traction/stability control lights to be on? Seems like I remember those lights coming on my 100 when I would have a CEL trip (ignition coils I believe is what that was from).

Any idea on the 'transmission software'? What about the 'air pump'?
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SAIS (secondary air injection system) and Airpump are the same thing. The SAIS failure is triggering an emissions control error, and in typical Toyota fashion, any emissions failures causes 4wd and traction control lights. It was also an issue on 4.7l v8s, so was most likely the same issue on your sequoia. Also, yes on the noise. In proper function on a cold start the SAIS would recirculate the exhaust to lower emissions. On hot starts it would not.

if your handy and feel that’s the only issue, I’d take the 3k Toyota SAIS fix story to the bargaining table and see what happens. I’d be a lot more worried about rust and water intrusion than the sais, unless you are a stickler for emissions.
 
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lx200inAR said:
SAIS (secondary air injection system) and Airpump are the same thing. The SAIS failure is triggering an emissions control error, and in typical Toyota fashion, any emissions failures causes 4wd and traction control lights. It was also an issue on 4.7l v8s, so was most likely the same issue on your sequoia. Also, yes on the noise. In proper function on a cold start the SAIS would recirculate the exhaust to lower emissions. On hot starts it would not.

if your handy and feel that’s the only issue, I’d take the 3k Toyota SAIS fix story to the bargaining table and see what happens. I’d be a lot more worried about rust and water intrusion than the sais, unless you are a stickler for emissions.
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Thanks. There is zero rust underneath. Not sure about water intrusion though.

I did find a 2008 with less miles and about the same price….it has a ton of maintenance done showing on Carfax and Toyota.

The pics below are of the LC in question with the SAIS pump issues.

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I bought mine right at 150k, 2011 model. Had all the service done on time at local dealer, all fluids at each interval, and new radiator at 120k.

That being said I bought it knowing I'd have to cover some essential maintenance. These are solid vehicles but still require repairs and maintenance, I have 165k on mine now and have had the following items completed in my ownership, some were needed, and some were preventative. I bought it knowing I'd sink the money in it to sort it out but I knew I planned to keep it a few years and figured the 15-20k premium to get one with 50k fewer miles would be a waste since I would still have to take care of these same maintenance items during my ownership.


O2 Sensors- $900 OEM Replacements plus install, threw codes around 156k
Starter, coolant valley leak, pcv valve, plugs, intake cleaning, new header gaskets and all other required to assemble, fan clutch ~~ $3,000
Accessory Belt, tensioner, fluid flushes - $700

I try and buy vehicles based on depreciation and maintenance cost, I figure I can put 100k miles on this cruiser and put $7-10k into maintenance and sell it for 5-7k less than I bought it. Making my ownership cost around 15-20k. Pretty cheap in comparison to just the depreciation hit you'd take on almost any other vehicle today.
 
zachc113 said:
I bought mine right at 150k, 2011 model. Had all the service done on time at local dealer, all fluids at each interval, and new radiator at 120k.

That being said I bought it knowing I'd have to cover some essential maintenance. These are solid vehicles but still require repairs and maintenance, I have 165k on mine now and have had the following items completed in my ownership, some were needed, and some were preventative. I bought it knowing I'd sink the money in it to sort it out but I knew I planned to keep it a few years and figured the 15-20k premium to get one with 50k fewer miles would be a waste since I would still have to take care of these same maintenance items during my ownership.


O2 Sensors- $900 OEM Replacements plus install, threw codes around 156k
Starter, coolant valley leak, pcv valve, plugs, intake cleaning, new header gaskets and all other required to assemble, fan clutch ~~ $3,000
Accessory Belt, tensioner, fluid flushes - $700

I try and buy vehicles based on depreciation and maintenance cost, I figure I can put 100k miles on this cruiser and put $7-10k into maintenance and sell it for 5-7k less than I bought it. Making my ownership cost around 15-20k. Pretty cheap in comparison to just the depreciation hit you'd take on almost any other vehicle today.
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Was the starter bad or just a ‘while they were in there’ since it seems to be similar labor?
 
sleepycruiser said:
Was the starter bad or just a ‘while they were in there’ since it seems to be similar labor?
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It failed in my driveway luckily. Didn't show any signs before it went. Just would click once when I hit the ignition.

Had to put her on a flatbed to take it in. I knew it had the coolant valley leak at that point as well so we just bit the bullet on that trip
 
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