Hoping to buy a LC200 in the next few days. A few questions.. (1 Viewer)

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sleepycruiser

I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
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Asheville, North Carolina
Ok team!!

I just sold my truck...and looking to move back into a LC platform. I've had two 80s and a 2000 100 series, but want to move to the 200 bc we pull a hybrid camper. I found one a few hours away...2010 with 165k, southern owned vehicle and looks to be in very good shape.

Carfax looks good...doesn't look like anything major has been done to it, but has new brakes, oil change of course, etc that was done recently. No major maintenance listed on there, so I assume the plugs are original. I know to look at the top of the radiator, look for any leaks on the side, etc based on info gathered here. If it needs a new radiator soon I can probably do that as I did our GX470 with no issues, so I assume it is similar.

I've been searching the forum and gathered a lot of good info. I feel that I could likely baseline most of it (coolant, transmission fluid, diffs) as I have done that on past vehicles.

Anything else I should be looking at? Price is decent for the vehicle, but I just took a big hit selling my truck...so just want to make double sure. I will continue combing through this forum to pick up anything I have missed so far. Thanks!!
 
As a less-capable-than-most opinion, give it to a pro to lift up and once over the whole truck. When I did that everything checked out mechanically, structurally, etc, but they did discover both bumpers had been repainted. Lol. Just never know in this dog-eat-dog world. Of course cosmetic/minor stuff is no big deal. Try and catch the big stuff somehow, then sit back & enjoy the ride. Good luck. And remember - there are always other trucks out there if one gives you that “pause”.
 
2 of the must-checks:

Check the radiator for cracks and leaking fluid. This issue wasn't fixed until 2018.
Check for the valley plate leak. You have to get behind the PCV valve and if it's leaking, you'll see a bunch of dried up pink coolant. Tough to spot, but something that must be looked at.

Other than that, at 165k you've got nothing to worry about. I bought mine at 186k, now have 207k. No issues besides the valley plate leak. Need to get that repaired.
 
open the junction boxes in the kick panels, look to see how much corrosion there is
 
2 of the must-checks:

Check the radiator for cracks and leaking fluid. This issue wasn't fixed until 2018.
Check for the valley plate leak. You have to get behind the PCV valve and if it's leaking, you'll see a bunch of dried up pink coolant. Tough to spot, but something that must be looked at.

Other than that, at 165k you've got nothing to worry about. I bought mine at 186k, now have 207k. No issues besides the valley plate leak. Need to get that repaired.
Got it. I had a cracked radiator on top of a 1994 80 series…still ran but would sizzle. 😂 How much would a valley plate fix cost?
open the junction boxes in the kick panels, look to see how much corrosion there is
Got it, thanks!
Would also check the KDSS screws and make sure they are not seized up.....
Are those easily accessible from the rear wheel-well?
 
Got it. I had a cracked radiator on top of a 1994 80 series…still ran but would sizzle. 😂 How much would a valley plate fix cost?

Got it, thanks!

Are those easily accessible from the rear wheel-well?
I was quoted about $1,000 by a local specialty Toyota shop. Thought that was a little high. Still contemplating doing it myself.

Also, the KDSS screws are very easily accessible from the underside of the truck on driver's side. No part removals necessary.
 
I was quoted about $1,000 by a local specialty Toyota shop. Thought that was a little high. Still contemplating doing it myself.

Also, the KDSS screws are very easily accessible from the underside of the truck on driver's side. No part removals necessary.
Yikes. That seems a little high to me as well.

Is that a common issue? Not sure the guy is going to let me take all of that apart. 😬
 
Knowing what I know, I would never buy a 200 without checking these connections, if he won't let you check, I'd pass.
This is common, just read some on the threads on here, at least once a week a new thread starts with this issue, either leaking windshield or leaking sunroof.
It's not the end of the world when it happens, if you catch it early, and are able to do the repairs yourself.
 
Yikes. That seems a little high to me as well.

Is that a common issue? Not sure the guy is going to let me take all of that apart. 😬
There are often (usually?) signs of water leaks without removing connectors. I think you covered that when you mentioned looking for leak? Look for carpet dampness or staining on the DS and PS front floor and any signs of dripping up under the dash on the DS and PS side. If there are no signs of water and there are no dash lights, it's likely ok. But, a replaced windshield is a red flag to make sure it was done correctly, so look at the windshield to see if it's Toyota and the seal is secure.

You can look at service records on the Toyota Owners web site with the VIN. That will tell you much more than a Carfax, which is very unreliable for service/repair info.
 
There are often (usually?) signs of water leaks without removing connectors. I think you covered that when you mentioned looking for leak? Look for carpet dampness or staining on the DS and PS front floor and any signs of dripping up under the dash on the DS and PS side. If there are no signs of water and there are no dash lights, it's likely ok. But, a replaced windshield is a red flag to make sure it was done correctly, so look at the windshield to see if it's Toyota and the seal is secure.

You can look at service records on the Toyota Owners web site with the VIN. That will tell you much more than a Carfax, which is very unreliable for service/repair info.
Totally forgot about the Toyota site info…I used the Lexus site when buying both of our GXs.

I’ll check that out.
 
That doesn’t sound good.

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Congrats, you just found out why it's for sale!
How much would air pumps be? Sonar message?

Sellers have to be careful. For those of you that don’t have a BlueDriver, get one. Bluetooth OBD and it will tel you how many miles ago the CEL codes were cleared.
 
Looks like the sonar message is for parking assist.

What details can anyone else gather from those screenshots?
 
Probably had secondary air injection system failure which, unfortunately, is something fairly common. Lots of small, expensive, hard to reach parts unless the system is bypassed.
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I'd look elsewhere.
 
The SaIS failure will trip the 4lo and traction lights. The bad part about the failure is it can sometimes easily be cleared with a OBD tool and takes 2 cold starts to retrip. If the current owner is the one who declined the service, I would get him to fess up on how he fixed it. I wouldn’t run from a truck that has a SAIS bypass kit, but you want to make sure he isn’t hiding a failed system by resetting the ECU. And also adjust offer accordingly. You can look for Non OEM cabling near the MAF for the bypass. It’s very common on Tundras and 200s (My truck had one that was undisclosed when I bought it).
 
The SaIS failure will trip the 4lo and traction lights. The bad part about the failure is it can sometimes easily be cleared with a OBD tool and takes 2 cold starts to retrip. If the current owner is the one who declined the service, I would get him to fess up on how he fixed it. I wouldn’t run from a truck that has a SAIS bypass kit, but you want to make sure he isn’t hiding a failed system by resetting the ECU. And also adjust offer accordingly. You can look for Non OEM cabling near the MAF for the bypass. It’s very common on Tundras and 200s (My truck had one that was undisclosed when I bought it).
Thanks. I did the bypass on a 2006 Sequoia I think...is that the bypass that uses the block plates to make it where the vehicle doesn't sound like an airplane taking off? And I ran wires as well when I did that...it has been 12 years since I did that I think.

If he reset the ECU is that something that would show up on a scan? My scanner (BlueDriver) will tell you how many miles ago the CEL was cleared.

So based on what you are saying this is probably all due to the same issue....the SaIS, which makes the 4wd lights turn on. Would that also cause the traction/stability control lights to be on? Seems like I remember those lights coming on my 100 when I would have a CEL trip (ignition coils I believe is what that was from).

Any idea on the 'transmission software'? What about the 'air pump'?
 

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