Hoping for some coaching on lowering the FJ (now Tom's build thread apparently) (1 Viewer)

[tdskip]

Leaving the doubler in, beyond the length of the drivetrain and the resulting short rear driveshaft presenting some challenge in balancing, doesn’t really cost me anything at this point, right?

Even with the body lowered it looks like access is still pretty darn good so if I want to put in a four-speed automatic and/or lose the doubler I could always do that at a later date, no?

The benefit of that approach, beyond limiting the amount of cash I am hemorrhaging, would be that I could climb more technical sections easier. My thinking about that the right way?

Ideas?

Thanks again for all the help!

 

[lcwizard]

The 4 speed auto ( 700 R ) would give you a 20% lower first in addition to the overdrive. Not quite the same as the doubler.
A 700R and Orion would get you in the same range and save a little length . I've done a 700r to 203 doubler to split but it involved lengthening the hump to keep the drivetrain out of the mud and pushing the axle back for driveshaft length. At that point i used a
carrier bearing with a two piece front driveshaft to keep the belly flat and the front shaft off rocks. There's solutions to all problems
if you feel the need. A combination of the 700r and Orion is a minimally complex solution with a 50:1 final crawl. Keeping your TH350
with an Orion would give you a 41:1 crawl with 4:11s. 41:1 in a soft top 40 with an auto is very usable. If you were in a 60 or 80
i'd push for the 700r to manage the weight over the rocks better. With a 1:1 top gear like in your TH350 you'll have no issues going as fast as you want with 33's. I had my 40 to 108mph wit a TH400 doing exhaust and carburetor tests. I drove 75 when I wanted with no issues. If your TH350 is in good shape it would be cheaper to put an Orion behind it than most options for good gearing. Sell the doubler and tcase and put it into an Orion

 

[tdskip]

Thanks - plenty to mull over there. The education you guys are proving is fantastic.

 

[tdskip]

Gentlemen, good morning. Hope everyone had a good night.

I think I found some 3.7s, there is an open question as to spline count however. This rig has 5.29s now and I want to make sure they are 27 splines. Short of pulling them out is there a way to tell?

Thanks!

Edit - corrected the ratio per Jim's response

 

[jim land]

LC gear is 3:70 not 3:73

 

[tdskip]

Thanks Jim - appreciate the correction/clarification. Lots to learn here still.

 

[lcwizard]

Gentlemen, good morning. Hope everyone had a good night.

I think I found some 3.7s, there is an open question as to spline count however. This rig has 5.29s now and I want to make sure they are 27 splines. Short of pulling them out is there a way to tell?

Thanks!

Edit - corrected the ratio per Jim's response

Only probabilities. The parts in the axle are so interchangeable there's no guarantee. You can go from coarse to fine simply
by changing the two side gears. Since 68 and later were fine spline and the previous owner had some knowledge on how to build
a rock crawler based on his gear selections, t-case brace etc, my money is on the stronger fine spline. If it has a locker of some kind
that raises the possibility. However, the fact that the front diff has a castle nut on the pinion suggests that differential is a 69 and earlier.
Hope it's a 69. If it's earlier than 69 you may have a ball and claw rather than birfield axle on top of being coarse spline inner shafts.
In that case the whole housing goes in the event of a Toyota disc swap. Your disc option would be a man-a-fre style aftermarket
kit. It works well for stopping but the drum spindle in considerably weaker than the factory disc spindle

 

[tdskip]

Taking a break from the body today to get he fuel tank ready. It’s solid but had some surface rust which I am taking care of with phosphoric acid (which next to beer might be the best thing on earth at this particular moment, but I digress).

This lip looks bent to me and I want to make sure if it is I straighten it before painting. I tried looking up fuel tank images before asking but it was hard to tell for sure.

Thanks!

 

[tdskip]

Got the lift kit off. Shock mounts in right place now. Steering column Is not in the right place however and is now rubbing , and the passenger side transmission mount is fouling the body as well.

Her stance is a bit off here because the passenger side rear tire was quite low on air when I took this picture but I’m going to count this as a significant step forward.

 

[tdskip]

Those tires are 37X12.0R15 by the way. I’m planning on using 16 inch rims but less of a monster truck tires so it should come down another couple inches once I get the new rims and tires on it .

 

[JohnnyC]

think his may have been mentioned already.... but... to help with the alignment of body.... most of the issue is most likely the bin hinge .... the block isnt as high as the rear lift.... so everything is tilted... it was pushed back to get the alignment correct to the back

the fender should line up to where i pointed out on your pic.... once the lift is gone... and at the same level things will line up better

see pics

 

[tdskip]

Thank you Johnny, that will save me a bunch time when I go to tackle it.

Are the polyurethane body to frame mounts the right ones to use for every day driving and then fire roads another modest offering?

Is there a consensus on the right kit to order?

 

[tdskip]

Good morning and happy Saturday gentlemen.

Time for more things to learn - this is my first build with an automatic transmission.

I am correct that this is the gear selector I put shaft?

 

[cult45]

Thank you Johnny, that will save me a bunch time when I go to tackle it.

Are the polyurethane body to frame mounts the right ones to use for every day driving and then fire roads another modest offering?

Is there a consensus on the right kit to order?

This has been a great read! Re mounts, use the same rule as suspension bushes: poly for racing, rubber for comfort. Needless to say, on a 40, find all the comfort you can get!

 

[lcwizard]

Taking a break from the body today to get he fuel tank ready. It’s solid but had some surface rust which I am taking care of with phosphoric acid (which next to beer might be the best thing on earth at this particular moment, but I digress).

This lip looks bent to me and I want to make sure if it is I straighten it before painting. I tried looking up fuel tank images before asking but it was hard to tell for sure.

Thanks!


View attachment 1983066

If it doesn't leak don't try straightening it. It has bent up spots factory. Yours has a little extra added extra bends
but there's really no need to stress the pinch welds further

 

[tdskip]

Thanks guys.

Rubber for the body mounts it will be, and I'll not further stress the tank.

Have a great rest of your weekend.

 

[tdskip]

Happy Friday gentlemen.

What do you think about this as a battery location?

My mock-up of the brake master and booster using the JT Outfitters adapter (to avoid cutting the firewall rib) look OK?

Thanks!

 

[tdskip]

Just picked up some new seats and I mean brand new never installed-pro car seats for 325 bucks for the pair.

 

[tdskip]

How well did you reinforce the fender mounting holes? I'd be somewhat afraid of ripping the fender apart. I see a LOT of leverage hinging on those bolts.

That is roughly where an FJ55 sits but the Fj55 has a 'shelf' to help support the battery weight.

Hi John - happy Friday to you.

It’s just a mock up now.I have not reinforced that fender area yet, it just looked like a natural fit for the battery tray. I can certainly weld in some additional metal or use large washers to spread the load and I’d make sure to use at least four or six mounting bolts.

I can see the concern - that battery is going on put a load in that not very thick fender metal.

 

[pb4ugo]

I considered mtg my box that way but changed my mind to save my new fenders. I ended up using the top of the shock tower for 1 mount and also ran an additional support to the frame and used existing tapped holes in the frame for that support. .